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Post subject: needed adjustments for higher guage strings??
Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 8:39 pm
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i put some of my favourite guage strings and a set of grapite saddles on my new strat (Mexican Roadhouse) , all the adjustments we're perfect riht out of the factory with the 9 guage superbullets, now that i have 11 guage strings, and the saddles(the saddles shouldn't be the problem) on the guitar, i can't seem to get the action right, it was nice and low and comfy with the 9's, but i have to crank the action up with 11 guage strings.

Heres my question: :) What should i add/remove to be able to lower the action down back to my desired height???

i use all six bridge springs, the graphite saddles, and 11 guage superbullets, do i need more/less releif??? do i need to change bridge height/angle??? what do i do?? any suggestions??? any comments?? any reccomendations???

Thanx, Kurly


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Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:03 pm
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You will need less neck bow less relief which means you need to adjust the truss rod so it pulls back the neck a little more not a lot though, and also you will need to adjust the big springs in the claw a little deeper into the body so the pressure pulls the bridge back a little more too to compensate the position it had before with the 9's... you have to be very precise though so it is set as it was before but with a little more tension :)


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Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:43 pm
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so less relief??? cause ths string tension has added relief???

and fine tune the claw screws for a little more tension then stock, ok can do, i'll post if further help is needed

thanx


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Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 10:01 pm
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In addition to neck, bridge/spring/saddle/intonation adjustments, you should also have the nut filed by a pro...those wider gauge strings could have a tendency to "pinch" inside a nut that was filed for .009's.

You also want to be -VERY- careful making any truss rod adjustments...many a fine guitar neck has been damaged beyond repair (broken neck, truss rod stripped, etc) by people who did not know how to do these adjustments properly. This isn't a difficult adjustment but it does take patience. Take "baby steps" as you adjust your truss rod...1/8 of a turn or less. Also remember that these adjustments will typically take a while to "settle in".

If you don't know what you are doing here, it may be very well worth a few bucks for you to take it to a pro. Again these adjustments aren't that terribly difficult and IMHO it's worth knowing how to do yourself, but you CAN serious f*** up your guitar if you're not patient and careful.

Peace,
Jim


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Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 10:37 pm
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thanx for all the advice, but i thought that maybe adding more relief would make it possible to lower the action more, is my theory wrong??

like the easiest or best way to get lower action without fretting/frett buzz???


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Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 10:58 pm
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In the user's manual it suggests you install all five springs in the tremolo cavity if you're using heavier gauge strings...not everybody likes that extra tension (I hardly ever use the tremolo arm myself), but it does get your bridge sitting flat again.


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Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:02 pm
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i use all five , thanx, but can anyone comfirm/correct my theory, i thought that the more relief, the lowere i could possibly get the action???


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Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:35 am
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The "action" is a product of bridge adjustment.

Heavy strings exert more tension, bowing the neck more (= more relief).
Heavy strings vibrate in smaller arc, allowing for less relief.

You probably need to increase truss rod tension, thereby reducing the relief (bow).

Measure first.. Capo at 1st fret. Deptress Low E at last fret.
Use feeler guage at 7th fret.. spec. is about 0.010".

Don't adjust truss rod if measurements are per specs.

Check bridge (action) height as well... and don't forget need to check intonation with different gauge strings.


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Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 3:23 pm
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thank you all! :)


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Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 4:30 pm
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i feel like an idiot as well for not mentioning this very important tibit of information,

stock: 9 guage 3 bridge srings

Now: 11 guage 5 springs *Half-astep down*

Now what? still les relief or more??


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Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 5:28 pm
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your going to need to re-adjust the intonation too.

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Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 5:48 pm
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intonation is not a problem for me, i just want to know how to get rid of this incessent fret buzz


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Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 6:25 am
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Heavier strings usually allow for a flatter neck; less relief (bow)...
However, if you've got fret buzz from heavier strings (which need less relief since they vibrate in a narrower arc), and which can even "create" more relief by adding more tension on the front of the neck, you need to stop adjusting, and start checking instead.

Check your relief and check your action. That means measure.

Capo at 1st fret and fret the Low E at the last, and measure under the 8th (I erroneously told you 7th fret before, but that was the Gibson in me writing). The clearance between the string and the top of the 8th fret should be about 0.010". You need to use a feeler gauge to determine that measurement.

Once the relief is "set" (potentially after any necessary truss rod adjustment which must be done in small, 1/4 turn increments), check your action (string height)... 4/64" - 5/64" at the 17th fret. Adjust accordingly if needed. Use a "machinests ruler" (aka machinests scale) that has precision, 1/64" markings.

Then check and adjust intonation, and use a good electronic tuner.

THEN, check for string buzz... If you've got fret buzz/rattles, you may have another issue to address, like a high fret.

Also remember, neck adjustments need to "settle in" for several days to several weeks... wood and steel are "reactive" to temperature and humidity changes, and wood also "bends slowly" and may change slightly even after the truss rod has stopped.. So, recheck relief and action after a couple of days, and again in a few weeks.

Best of luck...


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Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 8:32 pm
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Your neck is always the priority.
The next step depends on how you want to lay the bridge;
-if you want to float the bridge, shim the bridge at the recommended angle and distance within the trem well.
-if you want to flush mount the trem, block it first.

The reason is that there is nothing slower than tuning and correcting your intonating with a mobile

So;
1. neck
2. immobilize the trem.
3. adjust your intonation only after the neck has settled.
4. tune.
5. adjust the springs until the block is loose.
6. enjoy.


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Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 10:03 pm
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i feel like a dick for asking this, but, i'm still unsure of what all that guitar talk really means, i now what i usually need to know, but i've encountered probelms. at your own will, if it doesn't tick you off, or bother you at all, could you guys explain it in NWB terms?, i can do everything you speek of, but i'm not to sure of what exatcly it is your tellng me to do, sry again

thanx, Kurly

sry


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