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Post subject: Stubborn new truss rod
Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 9:40 pm
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I have a new American Standard neck which I bought by itself and built my own Frankenstein. The guitar was set up by a professional but still have some buzz (small bow between ~ 6th-10th frets) so I've been trying to adjust the truss rod and it is incredibly hard to turn (loosen). I've got a couple quarter turns out of it with lots of muscle turning the allen wrench with use of pliers. I'd like to know is there someway I can oil the rod to get it to turn easier?


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Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:10 pm
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If it is really hard then leave it like that because you can mess it up if you insist harder :shock:


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Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 11:05 pm
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Really easy to ruin that neck if you're not careful! Make sure the tension is off the neck when you make the adjustments; either tight or loose. Might need some lube in spots; I like to use 3in1 machine oil.


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Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 2:51 am
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Buzz at that part of the neck makes me think the pitch of the neck could be questionable. I certainly wouldnt force the truss rod.

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Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 4:53 am
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Hi cool9: don't force that rod! That's how they break, and then you are truly stuffed. Take it to a tech.

BTW, with deep respect to Strataholic, I wouldn't want to put 3-in-1 oil anywhere near that thing. You won't be able to get it into where it'll do any good, and the timber the neck is made from really does not like that type of oil...

Cheers - C


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Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 8:37 am
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I've used the 3 in 1 with my guitars for years and have never had a problem????????

What I meant was to remove the rod cmpletely and then a very light coat of 3 in 1 on the threads.


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Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 8:45 am
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Strataholic wrote:
I've used the 3 in 1 with my guitars for years and have never had a problem????????

What I meant was to remove the rod cmpletely and then a very light coat of 3 in 1 on the threads.


Hi Strataholic: not at all wanting a dispute over it (have you seen the latest maple v rosewood thread? Uh-oh...!).

However, I was recently reading Dan Erlewine on the subject of maple that's been rotted by 3-in-1 and the extensive and unsatisfactory repair resulting. He's talking about oil that's been used on tuners, but it's the same issue.

Anyhow. I'm interested to hear how you're removing a trussrod? We're not talking routers are we?

Cheers - C


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Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 8:55 am
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I spent $300 on this neck. I feel like I've been ripped off by Fender. A truss rod that doesn't even move. What do you mean by pitch? The strings are not level to the fretboard? The action has been set to standard specs and is very good up and down the neck and the neck relief is very acceptable (<0.010 in.). There is no twist in the neck. The fingerboard is maple.


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Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:07 am
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Well, I might be wrong but doesnt the truss rod screws inside the neck into a nut at the butt? Isnt that nut in the bare wood of the neck and therefore cannot move? Wouldnt the fingerboard needs to be removed with heat or simply remove the skunk stripe? Either way it sounds easier to buy a new neck...


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Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:56 am
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the pitch of the neck is how a perfectly straight neck sits to the topline of the body when the guitar is laid flat. All things being perfect it should sit parallel to the body. In reality the nut end needs to be pitched slightly higher than parallel. A good pitch angle will facilitate a straighter neck playing better.

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Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 2:53 pm
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man id leave that the hell alone, cus u know once you mess with a truss rod it turns on u breaks your precious maple and stainless steel frets, so obey it please.. please... :?


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