What are the atvantages of the 2 point fulcrum over the vintage version? I bought an American Standard and I think the bridge looks strange, but there must be some reason why Fender would use this instead of the vintage one.

I posted this in another thread (topic) in here:

"I have a '78 Strat that had the six-screw trem on it. It was OK, but I installed a 2-point trem system in the early '90s with no regrets. The 2-point fulcrum just seems to stay in tune better with heavy whammy use, but I recently read somewhere about improving the "Vintage" system by tightening all screws flush with the plate, then backing out the four center screws, so the bridge pivots on the two outside screws. (That may be Fender's own advice, from the Setup Guide on this site."

Look for the "Which is better, Tremolos" thread.

To me, the 2-point system seems more like a "true" floating system: A properly installed and adjusted system floats on the fulcrum points, just slightly off the body, and is flush with the body when pulled all the way back.

The six-point should be adjusted in the same way, but it seems to me that it maintains more contact with the body. There are those that feel this contributes to more sustain and affects tone, but I have found the differences to be negligible. But that's just me...

I read somewhere that the 2 point fulcrum bridge doesn't cut into the strings as much as the vintage.

Yes, I've read that too, and I must say that string breakage has been drastically reduced since I switched to the 2-point. The saddles and trees ARE a bit more "string-friendly!"

What is Fender's offical stance on the 2 pt vs the vintage style fulcrum? I noticed that the Jeff Beck model also uses the 2 pt and he ain't no slouch and is active with the whammy. Personally, I play clean unless someone else isn't too loud, then I turn up my vintage vibrolux and I don't do divebombs and stuff. Just into rootsy blues and surf type stuff., so I don't over wham the wang bar.

There are people who will swear that the six-point system transmits vibrations better to the body than the two-point system. Of course, since most guitar players can't tell the difference between Fenders and Gibsons in blind tests you have to wonder.

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James Burton Upgrade Telecaster
Hot Rodded Am Fat Strat Texas Special (now featuring Kinman Traditional II pickups)
Fender Blues Jr.
SWR California Blonde
Pedals Pedals Pedals

While I agree the two point system is probably more stable, the one on my AM DLX still does out of tune. I'm very heavy on the trem bar, think Blackmore, Van Halen heavy. I have been able to reduce any tuning problems by using Graphtech products on my Highway 1, i.e. graphite nut, graphite inserted saddles and locking tuners. With the addition of these three products and a properly set up trem, I rerely ever go out of tune. I'd say this setup runs a very close second to a Floyd Rose system.

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Carefull, I've got a loaded 6 string and I'm not afraid to use it. !!

I have both the 2 point and the 6 point on my Stratocasters. I do raise the 'middle' 4 screws on the 6 point to be up more than the outer two so that both these E string screws are essentially doing most of the work. For my stylings, I don't notice anything of real significance between the 2 point vs. the 6 point. I would presume though, if I used the wang bar more aggressively, the 2 point would probably be more efficient.

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You dig?

Yes, I have heard of that technique. You essentially turn the six point system, which looks to me like a real pain to keep adjusted, into a two point system.

My Stratocaster is a two point system, so there is no issue.

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James Burton Upgrade Telecaster
Hot Rodded Am Fat Strat Texas Special (now featuring Kinman Traditional II pickups)
Fender Blues Jr.
SWR California Blonde
Pedals Pedals Pedals

Not really. Once it's adjusted, it requires no more maintenance than the 2 point. As to the four "inner" screws, all they need is to be a quarter turn up more than the outer two.

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You dig?

Nobody reads the first reply.

I have a 2001 MIA Strat and it is my first strat. I've had it for about 4 months and I've noticed the 2 point bridge doesnt sit flush with the body. After speaking with a salesman at the place I bought it he told me how to adjust it. I double checked Fender's specs and proceeded to adjust it. After retuning, the bridge does not look like it had moved at all.
It also looks like one of the screws for the claw had wax on it.
Any suggestions?

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Follow the guidelines in this: http://www.fender.com/support/manuals/p ... es2003.pdf

And this: http://www.fender.com/support/stratocaster.php

When pulled back, the entire bridge plate should be flush with the body. if the front is raised, tighten the pivot posts. If you can't pull the trem arm all the way back, loosen the pivot screws (Sorry for stating the obvious, but... ). Now, adjust the tension so that the trem has the range you want. Fender "recommend" about an 1/8" between the rear of the plate, and the top of the body, but it's just a starting point. Once you have that tension set with the instrument in tune, proceed to set the Truss Rod, Action/micro-tilt (if your guitar has one), pickups and intonation.

I don't know what you mean by "wax" on the claw screws?

I have the american standard tremolo bridge and I also have the 6 screw vintage tremolo bridge.... I have to say the american standard feels like it is more of a floating tremolo bridge .... but also on the other hand my 6 screws vintage tremolo has tremendous sustain I've noticed....... There IS a difference but it is hard to explain.. my vintage tremolo bridge I can say has less range of tremolo movement than my american bridge but it feels stiffer and with more sustain than the american standard bridge.. also the american standard bridge feels really like it is flying which is also comfortable ... mmm its hard to say I love them both.... also you have to wonder why some guitarrists like eric johnson and yngwie malmsteen prefer the vintage 6 screw tremolo bridge..... I am glad I have both though so I dont have to make a decision to get only one of them