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Post subject: Need help figuring what tremolo I have
Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 3:00 pm
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So I want to replace the tremolo block and saddles for this Mexican Reissue I just got. The problem is, I have no idea what the hell this guitar really is. I thought it was a partsocaster, because it has a 50's reissue body, and a 60's reissue neck, but the guy who sold it to me said it was some limited edition that was built specifically for a guitar shop. My luthier who's Fender gold certified verified this when I brought it to him to get some mods done (he also turned out to be the sellers tech too, and did the intial setup and loaded the Tallboys pickups that were on it when I bought it). THe problem is he's gone for the next 3 weeks, and the guy who sold it to me is gone for even longer. I want to order the new block and hardware from Callaham, but don't really know what I'm supposed to buy, one for a reissue, or one for a Mexican standard. It has the 6 point vintage bridge plate, but it looks like Fender Mexico matched a different block than should be on there (wow, big shock huh?!?!(. ANyway, when I look at the strings coming up from the block through the saddles, it looks like the string spacing in the block is wider than the spacing for the saddles. So on the low E and A string they're coming up, than angling inward toward the treble strings, and the low E and B are doing the same only angling toward the bass strings. Im actually surprised that even with this, I cant knock the thing out of tune, but thats what a set of Sperzel Locking tuners, and a great set up will do. Any ideas?? I guess I could call Guitar Center, but I have more confidence just guessing on my own. ALso, I cant find my short ruler that has 64ths of inch measurements, so I cant really measure myself.


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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 2:07 pm
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Do you have a picture you can post? That would probably help some of the experts determine what it is that you have. :)


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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 2:15 pm
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I'll put one up tomorrow. I'm assuming it's supposed to be a vintage tremolo. I'm assuming that maybe on MIM's, they just use the same tremolo block for all of them instead of using different ones that match up to the saddle spacings like they would on American. It's not affecting tuning stability or intonation, but I'm sure it would work and sound better if it did. Like I said, i'll be getting a new block and set up saddles very soon.


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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 2:20 pm
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You can get a wilkinson/gotoh trem with slots instead of screw holes so they fit just about any guitar, for cheaper than a callaham block. I put one on my strat with the notion of using my callaham block from my old trem on it. When i heard the diff on the wilkinson i soon forgot about mucking around with the blocks.
Their really good, very smooth action and slide in arms on em too so you never need to replace or re-bore the block.

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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 2:24 pm
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nikininja wrote:
You can get a wilkinson/gotoh trem with slots instead of screw holes so they fit just about any guitar, for cheaper than a callaham block. I put one on my strat with the notion of using my callaham block from my old trem on it. When i heard the diff on the wilkinson i soon forgot about mucking around with the blocks.
Their really good, very smooth action and slide in arms on em too so you never need to replace or re-bore the block.


I'll check that out.


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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 2:48 pm
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nikininja wrote:
You can get a wilkinson/gotoh trem with slots instead of screw holes so they fit just about any guitar, for cheaper than a callaham block. I put one on my strat with the notion of using my callaham block from my old trem on it. When i heard the diff on the wilkinson i soon forgot about mucking around with the blocks.
Their really good, very smooth action and slide in arms on em too so you never need to replace or re-bore the block.


Whats the model number on that???? BTW, I just did a friend request for you on myspace, if that's your profile. I'm never on, but whatever.


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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 2:49 pm
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easy way to tell is by your string spacing at the saddles. Put a ruler on the top of the saddles and measure just the distance from the "E" to the "e". It should measure 2 1/16" for narrow vintage, 2 7/32" for newer wide trem. These are both 6 screw fulcrum bridges. the american series has only two pivot screws. Callaham is a good source for new bridges but you can also find some reputable folks on e b a y that sell too. I'd look for a bridge that has the larger block, even if it's just cast. The best block is one that is a solid piece like callaham sells. but I am fine with my stock powerhouse MIM full cast block. Nice twang!

Good luck!


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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 2:57 pm
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pontmercy wrote:
easy way to tell is by your string spacing at the saddles. Put a ruler on the top of the saddles and measure just the distance from the "E" to the "e". It should measure 2 1/16" for narrow vintage, 2 7/32" for newer wide trem. These are both 6 screw fulcrum bridges. the american series has only two pivot screws. Callaham is a good source for new bridges but you can also find some reputable folks on e b a y that sell too. I'd look for a bridge that has the larger block, even if it's just cast. The best block is one that is a solid piece like callaham sells. but I am fine with my stock powerhouse MIM full cast block. Nice twang!

Good luck!


I'm planning on buying a Callaham. My problem like I said in the earlier post is I cant find my 6inch ruler that has the small measurements on it. I'm getting a new neck made from Warmoth, I'm getting one with the SRV profile, and the compound radius, but Im getting it with the narrower nut 1 5/8. So I'll need to get a tremolo that matches up to it, I'm assuming the 2 1/16 spacing. Like I said, looking at the strings coming up from the block, they look wider than the saddles. It looks like the tremolo plate is a vintage type, and the block is a regular spacing. Its' a Mexican tremolo, so this wouldnt surprise me. I'm probably going to just keep the tremolo plate, and replace the block, saddles, and the six pivot screws. I dont think a different plate will make a whole hell of a difference when all's said and done.


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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 3:00 pm
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Although this has surprising sustain for what it is, I know a solid block will make it even better.


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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 3:03 pm
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My MIM powerhouse strat has 2 7/32" spacing, my stratenstein project guitar has a MIM standard bridge that is 2 1/16" and the little scrawny block.

I'm a graphic artist and used my "easel art" brand stainless steel ruler. you might find one at a hobby or art store, very accurate with 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, etc. marks on the first 4 inches.

Oh, and the bit about your strings angling out of the plate/block tells me that someone might have put 2 1/16" saddles on a 2 7/32" plate/block (or vice versa) which is just moronic in my opinion but it just goes to show how simple and wonderful Leo Fender's original design is that it still works for you!!!

Good luck figuring it out.


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Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 3:09 pm
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pontmercy wrote:
My MIM powerhouse strat has 2 7/32" spacing, my stratenstein project guitar has a MIM standard bridge that is 2 1/16" and the little scrawny block.

I'm a graphic artist and used my "easel art" brand stainless steel ruler. you might find one at a hobby or art store, very accurate with 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, etc. marks on the first 4 inches.

Oh, and the bit about your strings angling out of the plate/block tells me that someone might have put 2 1/16" saddles on a 2 7/32" plate/block which is just moronic in my opinion but it just goes to show how simple and wonderful Leo Fender's original design is that it still works for you!!!

Good luck figuring it out.


I'm pretty sure it came like that. The guy i bought it from plays in the pretty big Boston band, and all the work is done by my guy at Whittset guitar works, he's Fender Gold level certified, so he doesnt cut ANY corners. THe only thing he said he did to it for the guy I bought it from was a setup, dropped in the Rio Grande Tallboy pickups the guitar owner had, and replaced all the stock rewiring that came with it from the factory. Due to the fact the original owner paid to have the wiring replaced when he first bought it, it leads me to believe that he wouldnt replace the block with the wrong one. Plus all they guys other guitars are Gibsons, so it's not like he took it off another guitar. Plus this is some weird limited edition vintage reissue. with a 50's body and 60's neck. I dont know why they made that. i'd rather have the 50's neck all day long.


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