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Post subject: Tuning Problems
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 8:44 am
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I own a mexican-produced fat strat. Are there several different humbucking pick-ups or is it the generic name for a double-coil pick-up? Also, I am encountering a situation where it appears that the high E, B, and G strings are going sharp as I play, while the low E,A and D seem to go flat. Could this be a truss rod issue? I thought that referred to concave vs. convex which I took to mean from the bridge end of the neck to the nut end - not side to side, like higher pitch to lower. Last, the manual says under set-up for a tremlo bridge that there should be approx. an 1/8" between the bridge and the face of the guitar. Mine has been flush since I bought it. I have 4 springs anchoring the claw screws to the bridge block. I've had the great "pleasure" of learning to set up a Floyd Rose on an Ibanez I own, so I was tempted to go to 3 springs OR to back the claw screws a little out of the body. I got these ideas from my nearly endless and fatal learning experience on the aforementioned Floyd Rose. Ideas ???? Please and Thank You!!!!!!!!!!!1 [/u]


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Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 9:36 am
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If you think its a neck issue then check the screws holding the neck on are tight enough. Other than checking the nut slot widths, lubing the nut, string tree and saddles theres not much else i can think of to ammend it.
I float my trem, i find it returns to pitch after a dip far better if it can pull up a bit after its dipped and visaversa. Its worth trying out if you dont use it for much more than the occasional wobble. when setting the claw you need the treblestring side of the claw to be further into the body then the bass side to counteract the higher tension of the treble strings. One rule i use when setting them is to hold a A mi 11th at the 5th fret and dip it with the bar to Aflat mi 11th, if you balance the tremclaw to the string tension properly it should sound true. I set it to pull up on the open G to sound a Bb.If your divebombing and squealing harmonics then the only way to go is with a locking system.

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Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 10:25 am
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A lot of Strats go from "float" to no float (like yours did before you got it) without checking the intonation. I would start there.

Also, make sure you are playing with fresh strings.

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Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 10:43 am
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01GT eibach wrote:
Also, make sure you are playing with fresh strings.


Right - probably the single most common problem! Though few want to admit it...

Hi Noholy, welcome to the Forum.

Just regarding the trussrod, check it like this. Fret (or better capo) a wound string at the first fret. Now, with your thumb fret that string again at the top fret, so now the string acts as a straight edge along the tops of the frets.

Have a look at the gap between the bottom of the string and the seventh or eighth fret. If the string is just touching the fret then it means the neck is straight - which some players like best. Others want a little "neck relief". That means the neck is curving forwards/upwards a touch under the tension of the strings so they are slightly off the seventh fret in the previous test. 0.004 to 0.008 thousandths of an inch is a pretty good gap.

If you do have a gap you can judge it better by keeping your thumb fretting the string at the top fret while reaching over with the second finger on the same hand and just touching the string up and down onto the seventh fret. See if there is any movement in there. If that gap is much over about .008 thou then there's probably too much relief - in other words, if there's space to insert a spare e string between the fret and string without disturbing that wound string.

In that case you want to tighten your trussrod a tad - a quarter or an eighth of a turn clockwise at a time, after detuning the strings to allow for movement in the neck. Retune and check again. Feel any resistance on the trussrod, STOP and take it to a tech.

That's most of what you need to know about trussrods - at least for a long time to come.

Cheers - C


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