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Post subject: Graph Tech nuts
Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 1:28 pm
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Has anyone upgraded their Strat with Graph Tech products?

I hear they add a lot of tuning stability and are straightforward to install.

I am thinking of putting a Graph Tech nut on my Strat and was keen to find other users' opinions.


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Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 1:55 pm
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I just got a new strat that came with a Graphtech nut installed (so I don't know how to do it), but I love it! Never got to compare it to other nuts (bone, etc) but I really like it! After heavy use of tremolo and general playing (agressive too!) I've only needed to tune 3 times in a week! As for as keeping in tune goes, I couldn't ask for a better nut!


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Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 2:39 pm
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I have Graph Tech saddles installed on my Strat Plus. They work well. Before I installed them I was having major issues with string breakage at the saddle. The jury is still out on what affect they have on my tone compared to the stock saddles.

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Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 3:38 pm
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If you buy a pre-slotted GraphTech nut there's a good chance you may get away without needing to adjust the string slots for correct action. Though you might...

But be sure to read up on how to swap out nuts before doing the deed. You don't want nasty cracked lacquer or worse damage to that area of the neck.

Anyway. I like GraphTech, but I like TUSQ even more...

Cheers - C


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Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 4:04 pm
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Honestly, I have a guitar with a Graphtech nut, and it works pretty well. However, at a good friend's suggestion, I put a LSR roller nut on my favorite strat, and it works better than the graphite nut. It can be a little more expensive, but it is well worth it. It's not that the Graphite nut doesn't work, it just doesn't have as big of an effect on the tuning as the roller nut.

Oh, I guess if you don't know what a roller nut is, it is essentially a nut that has bearings in the nut under the strings that help balance. LSR stands for Linear String Rotation.

Anyway, it works amazingly well. I can play 30-45 minute sets without having to tune easy. Also, it works well better with the guitar aesthetically. You can get roller nuts that have chrome. They can look really nice and balance out the look on your guitar better than graphite.


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Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 4:32 pm
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gotta go with the LSR roller nut as well. I broke my original nut thanks to some big ole whoppin' strings and put a graphtech on. hated it from the get go. swapped to the LSR and couldnt be happier. I suggest it! its 40 bucks and well worth it

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1422/146 ... 8f.jpg?v=0


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Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 8:03 am
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LSR roller nut:

Image

I have been looking at the Earvana compensated nut ever since nikininja's post about it.
They say it is a kinda simulated bone like material but it has better slip properties than Graphite.
They make a replacement nut for necks with the LSR roller nut u can see here:
Image

I am confused because I like the idea of better intonation
(esp in those first 5- 7 frets where u do alot of chording).
But I don't want it if I have to start going out of tune when using the trem.

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Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:39 am
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I just ordered a Graphtech nut. Looked at the LSR, but didn't fancy enlarging the nut slot to make it fit.

Any pointers on what to do and what not to do when installing the Graphtech?


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Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 8:02 am
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tremolo arm wrote:
Any pointers on what to do and what not to do when installing the Graphtech?


Actually, yes. Have you swapped out nuts before? If not, I'd strongly advise reading up on it in the Guitar Player Repair Guide or similar. The number one task is to get the old one off without damaging the timber or the lacquer. I can tell you about that - but Dan Erlewine can tell you better. That book will give you a far better return on your cash than a new nut: if you don't have it already then it'll be the best money you'll ever spend.

Second task is to get the new nut in and seated snugly, but not too tight. Gentle sanding of the back face of the nut (the side facing the tuners) if it is too tight. Go light, and keep your sanding absolutely flat and square.

If too loose then just a dab of white wood glue under the middle of the bottom of the nut is all you need to hold it in place. Don't swamp it with glue: there will come a time you need to get that nut off again. If you don't need glue, don't use it at all: the string pressure will keep the nut in place nicely if it is reasonably firm in the slot.

Golden rule: any adjustments are made to the nut, never to the slot. Leave your timber alone!

The last task is to check your action with feeler gauges - again, as described by Dan. If the action is too high you are going to need to lower it, and for that you will need a nut file or two, at least for the treble strings. Unless it is way, way too high. Then you need to sand the bottom of the nut - so let's hope you didn't glue it in yet.

Unlikely that your action will be too low, but if it is then you'll need to shim the nut with a strip of veneer. Choose maple or rosewood to match the fingerboard. Again, just a tiny dot of glue, if any.

If you are new to this then it may all be sounding a little more daunting than you'd expected. It really is not so hard, but any worries, just take it to a tech. It is an inexpensive job.

Good luck - C


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