It is currently Tue Mar 17, 2020 2:36 am

All times are UTC - 7 hours



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 
Author Message
Post subject: How to you adjust the tremolo for a lighter gauge set?
Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 6:01 pm
Offline
Aspiring Musician
Aspiring Musician
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 5:09 pm
Posts: 314
Location: Connecticut
I contacted a guy from Fender tonight through e-mail. Very nice guy chatted back & forth with him. I told him my guitar came from the factory with the .009-.042 guage set and I changed to a lighter gauge set. .008-.038s and asked him would that make my tremolo bar raise higher or lower and he told me when you switch to a ligher gauge the bar will go lower to the pickguard. But my bar is pretty high so I thought it was the opposite. When you install a lighter guage the trem bar will go down. He said to accomodate this you have to turn the claw screws in the the cavity clockwise to compensate for this and if your not comfortable doing this to bring it to a guitar tech or else you can ruin your guitar. Has anyone out there have any experience in this when they've switched to a lower gauge and had to readjust for the tremolo? Thanks.

_________________
Fender Natural reissue 70's Stratocaster!


Top
Profile
Fender Play Winter Sale 2020
Post subject:
Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 6:10 pm
Offline
Rock Star
Rock Star
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2007 9:44 am
Posts: 7282
Location: Washington
Lighter gauge strings means less string tension ... so the spring tension will pull the bridge plate flatter to the body (and knock your intonation out of whack).

You have to turn the claw screws counterclockwise to "length" them and reduce the spring tension (to get it to match the lower string tension with lower gauge strings). Here's what to do: repeatedly turn the screws "out" a bit, retune the stings and check the bridge's float and intonation. Assuming the float and intonation were good originally, when the intonation is "back in," stop this process and you should be good to go.

Of course, going to a lighter gauge could change your neck relief (and require a truss rod adjustment) and you might want to check your string heights too.

The entire system is in delicate balance.

_________________
Member #26797
My other guitar is a Strat.

Image


Top
Profile
Post subject:
Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 6:14 pm
Offline
Aspiring Musician
Aspiring Musician
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 5:09 pm
Posts: 314
Location: Connecticut
orvilleowner wrote:
Lighter gauge strings means less string tension ... so the spring tension will pull the bridge plate flatter to the body (and knock your intonation out of whack).

You have to turn the claw screws counterclockwise to "length" them and reduce the spring tension (to get it to match the lower string tension with lower gauge strings). Here's what to do: repeatedly turn the screws "out" a bit, retune the stings and check the bridge's float and intonation. Assuming the float and intonation were good originally, when the intonation is "back in," stop this process and you should be good to go.

Of course, going to a lighter gauge could change your neck relief (and require a truss rod adjustment) and you might want to check your string heights too.

The entire system is in delicate balance.


I don't get it. The guy from Fender said you have to turn them clockwise not (couter)clockwise. I don't know? That's what I was thinking originally if the string tension or spring tension is less your trem arm should go up (right)? He said down. Now it looks like my bridge went flatter to the body. So what would that mean, the arm would go up higher right? He said it'll go lower and said had to turn the clawscrews clockwise. Who's right? Who's uncertain? All I know is my bridge gap which was about 1/8" with the original .009 heavier strings is now less than 1/8" so that would mean the arm would have to raise up, he said with the lighter gauge it would go lower to the pickguard meaning the gap would be bigger, but it's smaller. I don't get it someone's got it wrong.

_________________
Fender Natural reissue 70's Stratocaster!


Top
Profile
Post subject:
Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 6:59 pm
Offline
Rock Star
Rock Star
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2007 9:44 am
Posts: 7282
Location: Washington
Unfortunately, I believe the Fender guy gave you the wrong direction.
But try it and see what happens ... one way will get you back to the proper float. Is your bridge floating now? Is your intonation correct?

Don't think about the arm going up or down, that depends on which way it's pointed ... it's all about the bridge plate. Floating means that the rear part of it is approximately 1/8 inch above the body. Measure it ... put on the new strings, adjust the claw screws to get it back to that height WHEN the strings are in tune.

Based on the series of threads you have started, you sure are having a LOAD of trouble trying to change strings. :o Hang in there, soon it will be old hat.

_________________
Member #26797
My other guitar is a Strat.

Image


Top
Profile
Post subject:
Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:07 pm
Offline
Aspiring Musician
Aspiring Musician
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 5:09 pm
Posts: 314
Location: Connecticut
orvilleowner wrote:
Unfortunately, I believe the Fender guy gave you the wrong direction.
But try it and see what happens ... one way will get you back to the proper float. Is your bridge floating now? Is your intonation correct?

Don't think about the arm going up or down, that depends on which way it's pointed ... it's all about the bridge plate. Floating means that the rear part of it is approximately 1/8 inch above the body. Measure it ... put on the new strings, adjust the claw screws to get it back to that height WHEN the strings are in tune.

Based on the series of threads you have started, you sure are having a LOAD of trouble trying to change strings. :o Hang in there, soon it will be old hat.


Your right Orville it doesn't make any sense through the guy from Fender. It's just like if you pulled the strings off your guitar or detuned them so they flabbed against the neck. Where's the bridge going to go? Flush with the body like you said.Common sense, But on the other hand why does he say rather than loosen the the claw screws to tighten 'em?

_________________
Fender Natural reissue 70's Stratocaster!


Top
Profile
Post subject:
Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:16 pm
Offline
Aspiring Musician
Aspiring Musician
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 5:09 pm
Posts: 314
Location: Connecticut
If you go to loosen the claw screw deal:

1) Do you have to set you action (string height first)

2) Or do you have to reintonate your guitar by doing this doing the 12 fret fretted sound compared to the fretted harmonic?

3) Do the claw screw thing first then do options (above) afterwards?

4) When in this order of 1-4 would you tune it?

Thanks for this recipe! :lol:

_________________
Fender Natural reissue 70's Stratocaster!


Top
Profile
Post subject:
Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:18 pm
Offline
Rock Star
Rock Star
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2007 7:02 am
Posts: 8609
Location: Vacaville, CA USA
It does sound confusing doesn't it? First off we all need to be on the right page.

To the OP: Measure the bridge height off the body at the back of the bridge. Is it higher or lower than 1/8 in? If it is higher then you need to turn the trem claw adjusting screws clockwise. If it is lower then you need to turn the trem claw adjusting screws counter-clockwise.
Any time you change string gauge the entire setup should be checked.

_________________
Chet Feathers

Authorized TonePros Dealer
Authorized WD Music Products Dealer
F/A Official Southpaw Compliance Certification Tester http://faamps.com/

http://www.facebook.com/cafeathers


I didn't Lose my mind, I traded it for this guitar.


Top
Profile
Post subject:
Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:06 pm
Offline
Aspiring Musician
Aspiring Musician
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 5:09 pm
Posts: 314
Location: Connecticut
But do you have to measure you string heights with that 6" metal ruler that measures in 64th increments and measure the top of fret to bottom of strings for height and have to readjust the truss rod and all stuff like that? Because I know nothing about adjusting truss rods, but would you have to really do that because you're changing string gauges? Did you have to tools. Do you set the or check for the 4/64" in heights and set your sting heights and everything before you adjust the claw screw? Is the claw screw that very last thing you do before you do all this other mumbo jumbo. Sounds like a hassle. What do you do in what sequence? Thanks.

_________________
Fender Natural reissue 70's Stratocaster!


Top
Profile
Post subject:
Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:33 pm
Offline
Professional Musician
Professional Musician
User avatar

Joined: Sun May 18, 2008 1:35 pm
Posts: 2303
Location: DC
Hey, Maybe the fender guy told you you would need to take one spring off the back of the guitar and then adjust the claws clockwise.. thats what I d think 008's would be set up like since 3 springs would nnot loosen enough to have the 1/8 gap ... I use 009's and I use 3 springs in the back of my fenders and they are really loosened so maybe with 008's you are gonna hve to take one spring off who knows ........ :P


Top
Profile
Post subject:
Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 6:19 am
Offline
Hobbyist
Hobbyist

Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2008 1:32 pm
Posts: 86
Check the owner's manual, if you have one. If not, download it off the strat page from here and use that procedure. It's pretty well detailed on how to set up a guitar. I used it for my old clone and it made a world of difference. The official Fender manual says anytime you change gauges, you may have to re-do any or all of the steps, including the truss rod.

But, to answer your original question, the claw screw will pull the bridge down if you turn the screws in (clockwise). You are tightening the tension on the springs. Loosening the screws & springs (counterclockwise) will allow the bridge to float more. I would set this first. Then the action height; then the neck, and finally the intonation. As you adjust one item, keep check on the other things you've already done. Make sure the bridge stays where you want it.

Of course, you need the strings on and tuned properly. Once you get the bridge height set, check action, intonation, etc. to make sure they are all still in tolerance.

My suggestion would still be to use the Fender manual and follow their procedure. It really works well. Takes a little bit of time, but probably can be done in an evening, the first time you try it. And you will learn a lot more about how each of the systems work and relate to each other.

As the manual says, don;t force the truss rod. If you meet a lot of resistance , stop. Other than that, be careful and check and recheck tune and intonation often when you start that process.

Good luck
Randy


Top
Profile
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 7 hours

Fender Play Winter Sale 2020

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot], jmallard and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to: