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Post subject: Acrylic coating on maple fingerboards
Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 10:30 am
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Why is it that maple fingerboards have an acrylic coating, whereas a rosewood fingerboard does not?

I've been told that as a result of the coating, a maple fingerboard is much more expensive to re-fret.

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Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 10:34 am
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I have often wondered that myself.

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Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 11:56 am
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CAFeathers wrote:
I have often wondered that myself.

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Post subject: Re: Acrylic coating on maple fingerboards
Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 12:16 pm
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Syeklops wrote:
Why is it that maple fingerboards have an acrylic coating, whereas a rosewood fingerboard does not?


I believe the reason is because raw unfinished maple tends to get dirty, blackened, actually, from our fingers.

The rosewood gets dirty too, obviously (if you've ever had a rosewood fingerboard you know about the crud it collects), but it's not as noticeable and seems easier to clean. When the unfinished maple gets blackened, it takes steel wool or sandpaper to clean it to "white" again.

There is one maker that puts a clear coat on its rosewood fingerboards: Rickenbacker. But their rosewood seems to be lighter in color than Fender's rosewood. I don't know all the different types of wood ...

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Post subject: Re: Acrylic coating on maple fingerboards
Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 12:46 pm
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orvilleowner wrote:
... if you've ever had a rosewood fingerboard you know about the crud it collects ...

Yep -- I scrape mine off with a guitar pick in the direction of the wood grain. Some players like to keep their crud intact as a badge of honor.


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Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 9:11 am
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Yeah rosewood looks cleaner


But for the easily wared maple fretboard, you get More of a fender sparkle
in your tone

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Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 11:27 am
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hendrixfan99 wrote:
Yeah rosewood looks cleaner


. . . and it's said that was the main reason Leo Fender decided to switch to rosewood fingerboards in ~1959. The lacquer wore off, the fingerboards got dirty, and looked like a bad product.

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Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 1:02 pm
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orvilleowner wrote:
hendrixfan99 wrote:
Yeah rosewood looks cleaner


. . . and it's said that was the main reason Leo Fender decided to switch to rosewood fingerboards in ~1959. The lacquer wore off, the fingerboards got dirty, and looked like a bad product.


That's why I prefer Rosewood. Looks much better, although I have one maple (it's all that model came in).

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Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 2:47 pm
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I was told that rosewood needs to breath and be oiled where as Maple does not so they can seal it.

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Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 3:15 pm
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cu_jarrett wrote:
I was told that rosewood needs to breath and be oiled where as Maple does not so they can seal it.


I would think thats it too. Rosewood would suck up some finish since it's so porous. It wouldn't have that silky smoothness to it anymore.

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Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 3:24 pm
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cu_jarrett wrote:
I was told that rosewood needs to breath and be oiled where as Maple does not so they can seal it.


It's true that rosewood is an oilier wood than Maple. I don't know about breathing, though.

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Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 6:54 pm
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My Rickenbacker 4003 has a finished rosewood fingerboard... its my favorite bass of all time, the tone is unreal.. sorry jazz and P bass :)


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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 12:07 pm
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this is from Warmoth.com, neck finish page

To Finish or Not to Finish?
All our necks are dipped in an oil based penetrating sealer which is compatible with virtually all secondary finishes. This provides enhanced stability; however, it is not adequate protection for playing. We strongly recommend you apply a hard finish to all Maple, Mahogany, and Koa necks. Oils do not validate our warranty requirements.

We understand the attraction of raw or lightly oiled necks. They feel fast and are not sticky. Unfortunately, they are much more susceptible to moisture related warping and twisting. Our experience is that hard finished necks seldom warp. Less than 1 out of 200 (0.5%) are returned for warpage. Raw or oiled necks don't fare as well. About 10% are rendered useless from the torture. The more acidic your perspiration, the higher the odds are against you.

If you must play a raw neck, that's cool; it's ok. A neck is just a tool. Just be aware of the risk. If yours does the pretzel act, we don't want to hear about it.

For a valid warranty, a hard finish must be sufficiently thick to completely cover the wood. That means no wood is exposed and you are actually playing on the finish, not the wood. Now, it does not matter to us who applies the finish. Of course we would like to do the finish for you, but if you choose to do it yourself or have it done elsewhere the warranty is still valid.


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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 12:11 pm
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HemiRam wrote:
this is from Warmoth.com, neck finish page

To Finish or Not to Finish?
All our necks are dipped in an oil based penetrating sealer which is compatible with virtually all secondary finishes. This provides enhanced stability; however, it is not adequate protection for playing. We strongly recommend you apply a hard finish to all Maple, Mahogany, and Koa necks. Oils do not validate our warranty requirements.

We understand the attraction of raw or lightly oiled necks. They feel fast and are not sticky. Unfortunately, they are much more susceptible to moisture related warping and twisting. Our experience is that hard finished necks seldom warp. Less than 1 out of 200 (0.5%) are returned for warpage. Raw or oiled necks don't fare as well. About 10% are rendered useless from the torture. The more acidic your perspiration, the higher the odds are against you.

If you must play a raw neck, that's cool; it's ok. A neck is just a tool. Just be aware of the risk. If yours does the pretzel act, we don't want to hear about it.

For a valid warranty, a hard finish must be sufficiently thick to completely cover the wood. That means no wood is exposed and you are actually playing on the finish, not the wood. Now, it does not matter to us who applies the finish. Of course we would like to do the finish for you, but if you choose to do it yourself or have it done elsewhere the warranty is still valid.


Great answer. It gives a good explaination for what I was looking for.

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