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Post subject: 50s Strat Lacquer MN CAR questions.
Posted: Sat Dec 02, 2017 4:54 am
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Hello,

I am sure it has been discussed a lot but didn't find any model specific answers, so here is my questions:

-How many pieces of wood does the classic laquer candy apple red stratocaster's body usually have?
-Does this specific model (classic lacquer series) have deeper pickup cavities? The reason I ask this question is because I want to fit EMG DG-20 pickups and I want to make sure that I can lower them properly. I heard that the Mexican strats have deeper pickup cavities than the US models, don't know if it's true tho..

Thanks in advance!


Last edited by Iliaspap on Fri Dec 08, 2017 11:17 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post subject: Re: 50s Strat Lacquer MN CAR questions.
Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 6:52 am
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OK, nobody who actually has this guitar has answered...
I'll give this a go so you're not left hanging, and maybe someone corrects me if I'm wrong.

Classics at some point were usually 2-3 pieces, while MIM Standards could be 5-7. Don't know about the new ones - the CS 50's Lacquer Service Manual is from 2016, so there may be changes.
(And if you're interested: to me the body splinter count or maplecapping play no role in judging if a guitar is good/bad/other/all of the previous.)

On the routing depths, I'd guess that if Classic Series are different from modern ones, they would have shallower routings, not deeper.

If my memory serves me right, the DG-20's are 'normal' height. So, one workaround/alternative to routing could be to shim the neck backwards if the routing only needs to be a mm or two (OK, for all the inch people that's roughly .004" to .008", or 5/128 to 5/64...) deeper. (For a MIM Standard, the prewired EMG/DG pickguard requires no mods to the body.)

And a PS: If you get that guitar, measure the routing depth and post here - someday there may be another modder in your situation.


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Post subject: Re: 50s Strat Lacquer MN CAR questions.
Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 11:30 am
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jmattis wrote:
OK, nobody who actually has this guitar has answered...
I'll give this a go so you're not left hanging, and maybe someone corrects me if I'm wrong.

Classics at some point were usually 2-3 pieces, while MIM Standards could be 5-7. Don't know about the new ones - the CS 50's Lacquer Service Manual is from 2016, so there may be changes.
(And if you're interested: to me the body splinter count or maplecapping play no role in judging if a guitar is good/bad/other/all of the previous.)

On the routing depths, I'd guess that if Classic Series are different from modern ones, they would have shallower routings, not deeper.

If my memory serves me right, the DG-20's are 'normal' height. So, one workaround/alternative to routing could be to shim the neck backwards if the routing only needs to be a mm or two (OK, for all the inch people that's roughly .004" to .008", or 5/128 to 5/64...) deeper. (For a MIM Standard, the prewired EMG/DG pickguard requires no mods to the body.)

And a PS: If you get that guitar, measure the routing depth and post here - someday there may be another modder in your situation.


Thank you for the detailed answer! The guitar will be here in a week :)

I am not planning to change the PUs immediately but when I change them, I will measure the cavities and post the results.
As you said, I believe it will have the shallower routing ... it 's not my best to send a new instrument like this for deeper routing, I will try the EMGs without any mods first and will see..


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Post subject: Re: 50s Strat Lacquer MN CAR questions.
Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 12:15 pm
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Iliaspap wrote:
I am not planning to change the PUs immediately

That's a good decision. Often it takes quite a while before the new guitar - player - other gear get used to one another.


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Post subject: Re: 50s Strat Lacquer MN CAR questions.
Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 3:35 pm
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I wouldn't be too bothered about the number of pieces of wood used in the body.
I would be concerned about the POS HMA bridge block they install.
I have never experienced thread strip out on a tremolo block until recently, on a 60s lacquer Strat.
The HMA block is a piece of sh1t that is not fit for purpose.

On top of that, replace the block with a genuine vintage one, and you find that the hole for the tremolo arm doesn't align with the block.

Thanks for nothing Fender :evil:

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Post subject: Re: 50s Strat Lacquer MN CAR questions.
Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 6:41 pm
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An Allparts vintage steel block fit perfectly on my '99 MIM Classic '50s. I repeatedly read that the Fender AVRI block also fits.

Don't know if they've changed something in the past 17 years or what. (Well, I do know that early ones didn't have CNC holes under the pickguard or in the neck pocket.)


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Post subject: Re: 50s Strat Lacquer MN CAR questions.
Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2017 2:30 am
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It's the AVRI block that I fitted.
I ended up going to see a friend with a workshop, and drilled a bigger hole in the top plate using his pillar drill.
It doesn't look very pretty, but at least the guitar is back in action with the tremolo working properly.

At some point I'll get hold of the appropriate top plate and replace the original one.
I just have a bad taste in my mouth about Fender's use of materials that are not up to the job.
The only reason they use HMA is because it costs less, so the decision is driven by bean counters, with no regard given to end users and service reliability.

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Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.


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