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Post subject: The precision of this specific strats bridge physics...
Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 8:40 am
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Aspiring Musician
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Please look at the bridge below, paying attention to the bridge saddle positioning:
Image
Lets assume this guitar in the photo has an aces set up with perfect intonation...
You will notice that I have "play" in the position of the saddles.
(I have reasonable room to tighten or loosen them)

My question is related to the amount of "play" left in the screws at the back of the saddles when the guitar is set up properly & intonated.
The guitar I have on layaway has what they are calling a good setup...
Although I pointed out some fret buzz on the sixth string when playing above the 12th fret.
It does seem like a fairly good intonated setup (feels pretty good to me).
But when I look at both the Low E string & the G string saddles...
They are very close to "bottoming out".
(Squishing the spring so hard, its like they are spacers now not springs).
I have a custom neck on my 93 strat that causes my 6th string saddle screw on it to "bottom all the way out" too. The original fender neck doesnt do that.
Shouldn't I look for a guitar that when setup & intonated has better "play" in the saddles of the bridge. You know what I mean?
I am thinking in terms of the Precision of the math that actually makes up this one instrument I am buying... ( i am picky I kno)
I keep telling myself I want my instrument to have some play in the bridge...
They just recieved a maple sienna sunburst just like mine except with maple instead of rosewood. I might even like it better...
The bridge has better play in the saddles on its set up.
Am I going over board here?
Please share an experienced or educated opinion.

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Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 8:57 am
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Hello Bss,

I looked at the strats around the house
all are just about the same as yours.

So I got out my screwdriver to see
if I would run out of play-----
moved it a whole tone with room to spare
so I'm thinking your ok.

Hope this helped

Cheers.


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Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:10 am
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My one Stat sitting on the stand in front of me right now is like that as well so I also think you would be ok.

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Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:10 am
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what made you change the neck on your guitar you say its ok with the original neck fitted. The only guitar i've had that had the bottoming out problem was a charvel cx291, i traced the problem to the trem floating too high, maybe that could be a factor. other than that all i can say is when its intoned its intoned if guitars were built to be mathematicaly correct the saddles would be in a straight line. Even peavey the first cnc guitar manufacturers cant achieve that, their guitars are built with a set of dimensions that dont vary thats why you can pull em off the shelf and they all feel the same. what gauge strings are you using. have you considered a higher or lower gauge on the problem saddles.

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Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:15 am
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I have 10's on the 93 strat.
I had a custom neck made from the same block of Bacodi Wood used for the neck of my 89 strat that was stolen.
(I loved the feel & sound of that same wood I played on another guitar.
When I got this strat I was trying to replace that guitar.)
The new Sienna Sunburst Rosewood I have on layaway has 9's set up on it.
Someone else said I could just snip some of the saddle spring off or get a shorter spring for the saddle/saddles in question.
Maybe I am being too picky, I just want a very centered percentage of play in the adjustability of the guitar.

For example, if I play a gig out doors in somewhat cold weather for 1 gig...
Or maybe I want to put a set of 11's on this guitar... or whatever else...

Which way does the pendulum swing for the adjustability of the guitar?
Out of tune without being able to reach intonation cuz the saddle is bottomed out?
You guys are probably right that it will be fine...
But I have heard stories of pros returning guitars cuz they weren't within a certain margin of acceptable adjustability.
I plan on talking more with the tech... Maybe I should go for the maple neck anyway, what do u guys think?

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Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:23 pm
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This is a pic of the actual bridge I am talking about:
Image

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Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 2:36 pm
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bss wrote:
This is a pic of the actual bridge I am talking about:
Image


all i can think is, it could be a nut problem. Although in my experience nut problems rarely affect intonation past the 6th fret (and they have to be really bad to get past the 3rd). My other guess was that one of the trem posts could be slightly off position but the saddle placing on the high E dismisses that theory. Maybe try switching the saddles around between the G and high E or D. There can be imperfections in saddles and your high E is at the opposite end from the G. The trems not floating. It really is beyond me without getting my hands on the guitar.

this problem has been puzzling me for awhile when you get it sorted could you let me know the solution please for future reference?

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Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 2:51 pm
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I've seen photos of Eric Clapton's bridge and it has looked similar to the bridge in question.

Considerations of string gauge, nut height, and string height need to be considered in all of this.

Doc


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Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 3:49 pm
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Thanks Alot for your input!
They have a maple sienna in stock now too & I plan to visit with the tech hopefully this weekend...
Usually they don't do 'your setup' til it's paid off...
Plus I haven't spoke to the tech about any of this yet.


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