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Post subject: Strat jackplate routing
Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 9:54 am
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I have a MIA Standard Strat that has the jack mounted in the pickguard in lieu of the second tone control. I'd like to rewire my Strat to include the second tone pot and mount a traditional jackplate. Any suggestions for carving the hole for the new jackplate? Thanks.


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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 11:36 am
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since you have the input on the pickguard you must have a 83/84 standard strat
my advice is to leave it that wayand maybe someday that strat will be worth lot of money!!

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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 12:08 pm
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I might agree, besides for the $$ u might spend to get that done...
You might be able to buy a new MiM strat or used Mia strat for a little bit more $$$... Are you going to try and route the wood urself?
idk, maybe just get another strat... lol

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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 12:10 pm
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bluestube wrote:
since you have the input on the pickguard you must have a 83/84 standard strat
my advice is to leave it that wayand maybe someday that strat will be worth lot of money!!


I agree with Bluestube. We were discussing your "Stratocaster Standard, second version" just the other day on this thread:

http://www.fender.com/community/forums/ ... hp?t=10035

Take a look at that thread to discover the current state of knowledge on the Forum regarding that guitar. Perhaps think again about whether you want to mess with it or not.

Still, if it has already been modified in some way, or you just want to go ahead regardless, then how are you at handling a router?

You need a template for the jack socket cavity, or you need to make one. Excavate that hole - if you've never done it before, then your guitar is not the place to learn! After that, with a long drill bit you drill a hole between your new socket cavity and the main controls cavity. And that's about it.

Be aware, if you just start routing on the top of the guitar your finish is very likely to crack and rip in a miserable way. Use the routing template to draw a line where the cavity will go and then very carefully carve the finish off that area, taking great pains over the edges. Not so easy. Of course, you could excavate that cavity entirely with chisels, if your carpentry skills are good - are they?

Or maybe you are rethinking the whole endevour now...?

Good luck - C


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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 1:33 pm
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I would not deface that thing. Thay are geting harder to find so I would leave it alone.

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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 2:58 pm
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I had no idea this model was rare. I replaced the bridge and middle pups with Seymour Duncan humbuckers (single coil width) many years ago. It plays well and sounds good and is in pretty good shape. I guess I'll stand pat for now.


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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 3:02 pm
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Good decision!


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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 3:03 pm
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2strat wrote:
I had no idea this model was rare. I replaced the bridge and middle pups with Seymour Duncan humbuckers (single coil width) many years ago. It plays well and sounds good and is in pretty good shape. I guess I'll stand pat for now.
They are not rare but you don't see as much any more. I just tried to buy one but I believe it ended up selling for 650 and it was not to bed condition.

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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 3:05 pm
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cvilleira wrote:
2strat wrote:
I had no idea this model was rare. I replaced the bridge and middle pups with Seymour Duncan humbuckers (single coil width) many years ago. It plays well and sounds good and is in pretty good shape. I guess I'll stand pat for now.
They are not rare but you don't see as much any more. I just tried to buy one but I believe it ended up selling for 650 and it was not to bed condition.


A guitar only made in two years and as you say hard to find isnt that things that make guitars rare?

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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 3:54 pm
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bluestube wrote:
cvilleira wrote:
2strat wrote:
I had no idea this model was rare. I replaced the bridge and middle pups with Seymour Duncan humbuckers (single coil width) many years ago. It plays well and sounds good and is in pretty good shape. I guess I'll stand pat for now.
They are not rare but you don't see as much any more. I just tried to buy one but I believe it ended up selling for 650 and it was not to bed condition.


A guitar only made in two years and as you say hard to find isnt that things that make guitars rare?
I will give on that you can look at it that way. To me rare is you may see one or two a year or never see in person. These you can still find because they made many in that short time there are two on ebay now that look pristine. More than I can do now for my son got me for a Gibby335 yesterday ouch!!!

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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 5:15 pm
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I've never seen one of these jackplate-less strats in person.
But, if I had one, I would be tempted to route it out to make it more "normal."

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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 5:20 pm
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Hey 2strat since you have the 83/84 strat would you mind telling me how the FreeFlyte tremolo system feels, does it stay well in tune?

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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:49 am
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Hello Bluestube,

I haven't used the FreeFlyte tremolo enough to know if the guitar stays in tune. The tremolo bar stays in the case. I'll snap it in and give it a go and let you know how well it stays in tune.

Thanks.


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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 7:24 pm
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I like that idea of removing the finish where you want to route but not too sure how; sanding would be one way; but would need to tape some card stock around the area I was to sand so I wouldn't sand outside the area. When I was ready to use the router on finished wood I would tape some soft clean cloth anywhere my router would touch or put some sticky back felt on the router's base plate.
I would remove anything on the guitar that might get in the way; like the neck or bridge; certainly the pickhguard (if so eqipped) and pickups.
I would also put the body on a stable padded surface is such a way as it wouldn't move around.
Practicing on some thing is a great idea too!


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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 7:31 pm
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dna9656 wrote:
I like that idea of removing the finish where you want to route but not too sure how


I think you want to "score" just outside the line you're routing with a real sharp blade (X-acto knife or razor blade). Get down to the wood then the router shouldn't chip any paint off beyond the line.

Oh, you might want to tape it off too.


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Last edited by orvilleowner on Thu Jul 10, 2008 7:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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