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Post subject: Making room for the t-block
Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 1:41 pm
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I've installed my new bridge/tremolo assembly. It was remarkably easy.

What I've noticed is that the new block is much squarer than the old block, which had a forward/neck facing taper, with the end result that there's no room for the tremolo to bend 'up'. I don't bend up with the tremolo up very often, and even then not very much, but I'd still like to have the choice. Besides, how else am I to try to pretend that I'm David Gilmour unless I can use the tremolo subtly both up and down?!

Now the block is only just touching the body, and even then only on the lower end of the cavity, so it seems that I could shave away part of the paintwork then the wood, but I've no idea of what is the best way of going about it. Is a wood rasp the best tool (e.g. http://www.ciponline.co.uk/hand-too...- ... 354/s24368)? Or a curved chisel?

I think I only need to create about 5mm of space.


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Post subject: Re: Making room for the t-block
Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 3:09 pm
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Which bridge & block did you go for?

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Post subject: Re: Making room for the t-block
Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 5:43 pm
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Have you considered giving your bridge a little more "float"?
It's not a capital crime if your bridge plate isn't parallel with the body.

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Post subject: Re: Making room for the t-block
Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 6:05 pm
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BMW-KTM wrote:
Have you considered giving your bridge a little more "float"?
It's not a capital crime if your bridge plate isn't parallel with the body.


+1

That will yield a couple of millimeters of free travel which may be sufficient.

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Post subject: Re: Making room for the t-block
Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 11:35 pm
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You didn't take my advice (of buying a bridge that fits) in your previous topic. (viewtopic.php?f=6&t=101360)
Anyways, I'll try to help again - you can of course (again) choose to disregard or follow my advice this time... :wink:

jpj wrote:
Is a wood rasp the best tool? Or a curved chisel?

To be really blunt: if you need to ask, take the guitar to a pro. I'd estimate he/she/it would charge for one hour - and you'd avoid the risks of chipping the wood, damaging the finish, etc.

As DIY advice, I'd probably use a Dremel, possibly preceeded by a (good) chisel. But, evaluate your woodworking skills - this would not be a good moment to try a "first experiment"...

BTW, which (MIJ) bridge has the slanted side on the neck side..?


jpj wrote:
I'm sure the bridge will fit the body (screw holes, etc).
Edit: Did you check e.g. the distance between the six trem plate screws and trem block front/center/back?


Last edited by jmattis on Fri Jul 01, 2016 1:13 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post subject: Re: Making room for the t-block
Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 11:40 pm
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What the boys done said, or grind the leading edge off the trem block, or a combination of the two.

Certainly don't butcher a perfect good body (which it sounds like you are contemplating ) to accommodate a foreign object.

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Post subject: Re: Making room for the t-block
Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 1:55 am
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jmattis wrote:
You didn't take my advice (of buying a bridge that fits) in your previous topic. (viewtopic.php?f=6&t=101360)
Anyways, I'll try to help again - you can of course (again) choose to disregard or follow my advice this time... :wink:

jpj wrote:
Is a wood rasp the best tool? Or a curved chisel?

To be really blunt: if you need to ask, take the guitar to a pro. I'd estimate he/she/it would charge for one hour - and you'd avoid the risks of chipping the wood, damaging the finish, etc.

As DIY advice, I'd probably use a Dremel, possibly preceeded by a (good) chisel. But, evaluate your woodworking skills - this would not be a good moment to try a "first experiment"...

BTW, which (MIJ) bridge has the slanted side on the neck side..?


jpj wrote:
I'm sure the bridge will fit the body (screw holes, etc).
Edit: Did you check e.g. the distance between the six trem plate screws and trem block front/center/back?

*sniff* I'm a victim. :wink:

The trem block was already bought, and the supplier said that he spoke to Fender to confirm which one would be correct. When I was comparing the two not only the six screw holes looked right but everything else looked. I'm not sure there was much more I could be sure of without actually screwing it in to place.

I think the issue is that the cavity isn't cut evenly, since it clears quite comfortably on one side (the low E string side). I'm somewhat puzzled as to how that would even happen though, assuming - as I am - that these cavities are cut by machine.

The block with the $@!&# is the old, zinc alloy, piece.

I think you're right about getting a pro to make the space for me though. I have a local luthier I can go to, though he's moved, or I might talk to a guy in Denmark Street who has supplied me with spares before (only yesterday I bought a new set of screws from him for my new pickguard which I fitted this week).


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Post subject: Re: Making room for the t-block
Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 1:58 am
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stratmangler wrote:
Which bridge & block did you go for?

This one: http://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/parts-c4/bridges-tremolos-c252/fender-fender-original-tremolo-guitar-bridge-for-vintage-stratocaster-099-2049-000-p1699


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Post subject: Re: Making room for the t-block
Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 4:36 am
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Shame you didn't just buy the block:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152119814151?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=451318428423&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

it would have saved you a few bob and may have fitted straight off.

The trouble with Fender trems, and a good many other parts, is there are quite a number of variations which look identical but have subtle variations subject to year and country of origin.

MIA's and MiM's are reasonably compatible with a lot of parts but not necessarily trems. As I understand MIJ's aren't great for swapping much.

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Post subject: Re: Making room for the t-block
Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 11:23 am
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John Sims wrote:
Shame you didn't just buy the block:

Except that I wanted to replace the bridge as well because the old one is really grotty, even rusty, looking.

I'm not sure that just replacing the block would have worked though, would it?


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Post subject: Re: Making room for the t-block
Posted: Sat Jul 02, 2016 1:56 am
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Sorry about the irritating hindsighting, but the topic may help someone else, too.

First: some consider rust & grot to contain the mojo in a guitar. As long as the wear&tear doesn't affect functionality, one can just leave it.

Second, there are plenty possible cleaning methods. Old school would be soaking the parts in a mixture of Zippo fluid and oil, then cleaning with a (brass and/or tooth) brush & polishing.
Modern industries of course provide us today with metal cleaning/polishing products designed to the purpose, plus some fantastic tools, like a Dremel.
Just as a side note: on extreme cases, and when one absolutely wants to keep original parts, they can even be re-electroplated.

In this case, as long as you haven't rerouted the body, cleaning and reinstalling the original bridge is still a worthy option - you can leave the replacement bridge on while you take care of the original.
As far as the block goes (very much IMHO), upgrading the original gives mainly psychological results; a MIJ Strat usually sounds great with the original. But if your ears need a tone enhancing alien metal block, go for it - just be sure the new one fits exactly in every aspect.

Here's a nice educational StewMac-Erlewine page on guitar cleaning.

Generally on bridge (and other...) upgrades, I agree with John Simms; expect the unexpected when upgrading. Not so long ago on the forum, even a Callaham "direct replacement" caused issues on the trem cavity.


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Post subject: Re: Making room for the t-block
Posted: Sat Jul 02, 2016 1:59 am
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jpj wrote:
John Sims wrote:
Shame you didn't just buy the block:

Except that I wanted to replace the bridge as well because the old one is really grotty, even rusty, looking.

I'm not sure that just replacing the block would have worked though, would it?


You wanted to remove an authentically rusty bridge? I can think of little nicer.

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Post subject: Re: Making room for the t-block
Posted: Sat Jul 02, 2016 2:14 am
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jmattis wrote:
......a tone enhancing alien metal block


A total non sequitur.

Leo Fender (remember him? He's the guy who invented the Strat) specified a steel trem block and that protocol was observed until the day some corporate droid more attuned to the principles of economics rather than the properties of physics decided to tamper with the instrument's specs. Thus there's nothing "alien" about this material -- an alloy consisting of iron, manganese, nickel, and carbon -- and its sonic resonance is superior to pot metal of dubious composition.

Arjay

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Post subject: Re: Making room for the t-block
Posted: Sat Jul 02, 2016 2:39 am
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jmattis wrote:
....Second, there are plenty possible cleaning methods. Old school would be soaking the parts in a mixture of Zippo fluid and oil, ...


or Coke - the beverage not the substance.

Removing rust? and there's me considering buying hydrogen peroxide to encourage it

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Post subject: Re: Making room for the t-block
Posted: Sat Jul 02, 2016 3:51 am
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Retroverbial wrote:
jmattis wrote:
......a tone enhancing alien metal block

A total non sequitur.
(...)

My description was meant to be ironic & aimed at the aftermarket blocks supposed to increase sustain to eternity, clarify the tonal spectre till ghostlike transparency and basically turn any Strat in the hands of any player soundwise into [insert the name of your favorite model series or player here] class; thus the "alien" was meant to be taken literally but with no connection to St. Leo's designs.

But to keep things clear (& to provide a Fun Fender Fact), Mr. Fender's original description of the "bar 25" in question here contains no specification for the alloy/material, just a general note of the "bar 25" being "relatively massive, preferably formed of solid material".

As I said, on MIJ Strats, the original sound quality seldom absolutely needs enhancing. IMHO.

And generally on the "pot metal" vs "Leo specified steel" (vs "new and improved" high end versions), I believe all has been said that can be said, so let's not go there on this topic - pretty please.

:wink:


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