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Post subject: Took the neck of my Special
Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 3:39 am
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Ok guys I took the neck of my American Special for the first time, it's nice, no shims, it's made in 2013 as the US13xxxxx number on the back of headstock said, neck pocket is super tight.
And the body and the neck were made in april of 2013.
Can you experts decipher something more from the pics like SOL-COL etc... what does it all mean?

Image

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Image

Image

Thanks,


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Post subject: Re: Took the neck of my Special
Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 5:52 am
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No expert, but here's something...

The stamp yous asked is for SOLid COLor; it's a body wood surface quality mark. Bursts, naturals, transparents etc. are sorted out separately - for obvious reasons.
Date stamps; self evident.
"Aldo" and "Hernandez" are Fender employees - both names are found on Fenders quite often.
The rest (on a my best guess basis): production line marks for identifying what goes where, or employee checkmarks that a certain job has been done (probably both kinds on any guitar).
FMIC doesn't publish additional info on these, and some persons who used to reveal some ghastly insider secrets (hi, Rob) no longer actively contribute to the forum.


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Post subject: Re: Took the neck of my Special
Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 6:01 am
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jmattis wrote:
No expert, but here's something...

The stamp yous asked is for SOLid COLor; it's a body wood surface quality mark. Bursts, naturals, transparents etc. are sorted out separately - for obvious reasons.
Date stamps; self evident.
"Aldo" and "Hernandez" are Fender employees - both names are found on Fenders quite often.
The rest (on a my best guess basis): production line marks for identifying what goes where, or employee checkmarks that a certain job has been done (probably both kinds on any guitar).
FMIC doesn't publish additional info on these, and some persons who used to reveal some ghastly insider secrets (hi, Rob) no longer actively contribute to the forum.


Thank you for a quick answer!
Cheers


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Post subject: Re: Took the neck of my Special
Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 6:10 am
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I was plesently surprised how snug is the neck pocket, very very snug fit.


Last edited by WaymoreProta on Fri Apr 08, 2016 9:31 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post subject: Re: Took the neck of my Special
Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 6:54 am
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Why? Don't you trust Fender makes the Specials best they can? :twisted:
One thing to note - and this is a just a personal, unverified opinion: I always check (and often enlarge, ever so slightly) the screw holes in the body so the screws only cling to the neck, giving the tightest neck/body contact which is believed by many to improve tonal qualities.


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Post subject: Re: Took the neck of my Special
Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 9:35 am
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jmattis wrote:
Why? Don't you trust Fender makes the Specials best they can? :twisted:
One thing to note - and this is a just a personal, unverified opinion: I always check (and often enlarge, ever so slightly) the screw holes in the body so the screws only cling to the neck, giving the tightest neck/body contact which is believed by many to improve tonal qualities.


Thanks for the tip, the screws trough the body go by hand when they start entering the neck is when you need a screw driver, I'm gonna leave it like that.
Anyway thanks to Hernandez and Aldo for making such a nice fit :wink:
It wasn't as nice on my 79-80 Strat...


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Post subject: Re: Took the neck of my Special
Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 2:24 am
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Yes, I agree, Waymore - the neck on mine is an equally tight fit - as good as my CS and way better than my AmStds & Plus. I was very surprised when I took the screws out and the neck stayed put!

Actually, I never mind if the fit isn't that good. A bit more adjustability is fine by me!

Cheers - Peter.


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Post subject: Re: Took the neck of my Special
Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 4:51 pm
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The tightest fit possible would be to replace the screws with brass wood inserts into the neck and then both neck and body are fastened with machine fine thread screws versus wood screws...

Keep in mind that the wood screw method is the original Leo Fender mode and therefor was the most effective / cost effective way to assemble what he designed a sa guitar that could have all of its parts replaced quickly so that a musician could theoretically return to the stage the same night..

OP why did you separate the neck and body ?? There is no reason to do this unless there is an alignment problem... Each time a wood screw is removed and reinserted it enlarges the cut threads and you are left with a slightly looser fit which demands that you turn that screw a 16th to an eighth of a turn increase... Do this enough times and tapping out and inserting a thicker diameter screw is the eventual result...
Hence why the insert / fine thread screw mod is the answer to a guitar that is going to be taken apart multiple times....

Not everyone will agree but as someone who is a wood worker and builds his own I advise to not remove the neck unless there is problem...

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Post subject: Re: Took the neck of my Special
Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 6:23 pm
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53magnatone wrote:
The tightest fit possible would be to replace the screws with brass wood inserts into the neck and then both neck and body are fastened with machine fine thread screws versus wood screws...

Keep in mind that the wood screw method is the original Leo Fender mode and therefor was the most effective / cost effective way to assemble what he designed a sa guitar that could have all of its parts replaced quickly so that a musician could theoretically return to the stage the same night..

OP why did you separate the neck and body ?? There is no reason to do this unless there is an alignment problem... Each time a wood screw is removed and reinserted it enlarges the cut threads and you are left with a slightly looser fit which demands that you turn that screw a 16th to an eighth of a turn increase... Do this enough times and tapping out and inserting a thicker diameter screw is the eventual result...
Hence why the insert / fine thread screw mod is the answer to a guitar that is going to be taken apart multiple times....

Not everyone will agree but as someone who is a wood worker and builds his own I advise to not remove the neck unless there is problem...
This can happen fairly quick as it did when I changed my strap buttons for strap locks. Using the supplied screws and even the original screws, I couldn't get it stay tight. I had learned that bigger screws would only make it worse so I resorted to the toothpick fix.


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Post subject: Re: Took the neck of my Special
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 1:11 am
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I took it off for for no reason other than to se how well it's built, since I bought it new, this is the first neck removal and probably the last.
I wanted to see if there were shims or how good the fit is. Especially cause I had a problem with my 79-80 Strat with microtilt and the neck pocket was loose...
So if you slightly hit a body on your knee the neck would move down...etc..
This one's made perfect


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Post subject: Re: Took the neck of my Special
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 1:43 am
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53magnatone wrote:
The tightest fit possible would be to replace the screws with brass wood inserts into the neck and then both neck and body are fastened with machine fine thread screws versus wood screws...


Agreed - wood screws are a cheap and cheerful method of neck attachment. Any engineer (or DIY-er) could devise a better method at greater cost! Probably a matter of 'if it ain't broke...'!

Cheers - Peter.


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Post subject: Re: Took the neck of my Special
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 8:14 am
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There have been mixed reviews on the bushing/machine-screw mod. In theory it's an interesting idea but some whom have tried it have reported no change in perceived tone or sustain. I think it's because no matter what you do you are still relying on the strength of the wood's grip on whichever you insert into it. Max clamping force will have an ultimate limit due to the nature of the wood.

VERY slightly enlarging the holes in the body can provide some additional potential clamping force but whether or not the mod is worth it will be up to the owner.

I tend to agree a neck joint should prolly not be tampered with unless there is a problem with it or for the sake of a neck swap.

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Post subject: Re: Took the neck of my Special
Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 8:56 pm
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53magnatone wrote:
The tightest fit possible would be to replace the screws with brass wood inserts into the neck and then both neck and body are fastened with machine fine thread screws versus wood screws...

Keep in mind that the wood screw method is the original Leo Fender mode and therefor was the most effective / cost effective way to assemble what he designed a sa guitar that could have all of its parts replaced quickly so that a musician could theoretically return to the stage the same night..

OP why did you separate the neck and body ?? There is no reason to do this unless there is an alignment problem... Each time a wood screw is removed and reinserted it enlarges the cut threads and you are left with a slightly looser fit which demands that you turn that screw a 16th to an eighth of a turn increase... Do this enough times and tapping out and inserting a thicker diameter screw is the eventual result...
Hence why the insert / fine thread screw mod is the answer to a guitar that is going to be taken apart multiple times....

Not everyone will agree but as someone who is a wood worker and builds his own I advise to not remove the neck unless there is problem..
.


You nailed it. :!: :!:

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Post subject: Re: Took the neck of my Special
Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 1:39 am
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Quote:
There have been mixed reviews on the bushing/machine-screw mod. In theory it's an interesting idea but some whom have tried it have reported no change in perceived tone or sustain. I think it's because no matter what you do you are still relying on the strength of the wood's grip on whichever you insert into it. Max clamping force will have an ultimate limit due to the nature of the wood.


Yes, agreed BMW-KTM. My view is that the only object of a better-engineered system would be that it could be assembled and disassembled as many times as you need without wear and tear on the screw threads. I don't think the wood-to-wood join needs to be any tighter than is with the original/current system.

Cheers - Peter.


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Post subject: Re: Took the neck of my Special
Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 2:12 am
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bluesguitar65 wrote:
53magnatone wrote:
The tightest fit possible would be to replace the screws with brass wood inserts into the neck and then both neck and body are fastened with machine fine thread screws versus wood screws...

Keep in mind that the wood screw method is the original Leo Fender mode and therefor was the most effective / cost effective way to assemble what he designed a sa guitar that could have all of its parts replaced quickly so that a musician could theoretically return to the stage the same night..

OP why did you separate the neck and body ?? There is no reason to do this unless there is an alignment problem... Each time a wood screw is removed and reinserted it enlarges the cut threads and you are left with a slightly looser fit which demands that you turn that screw a 16th to an eighth of a turn increase... Do this enough times and tapping out and inserting a thicker diameter screw is the eventual result...
Hence why the insert / fine thread screw mod is the answer to a guitar that is going to be taken apart multiple times....

Not everyone will agree but as someone who is a wood worker and builds his own I advise to not remove the neck unless there is problem..
.


You nailed it. :!: :!:


Absolutely 100%

Just because you can remove the screws doesn't mean you should. Every time you remove a screw you damage the ends of the wood fibers around the screw.

Certainly a case of "If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is."

Another thing, as the body and neck expand and contract they will create perfectly mated surfaces where they touch. Expanding harder wood will compress abutting softer wood at a microscopic level. By removing the neck you have ruined that abutment until expansion and contraction generates a new one.

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