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Post subject: Re: Removing the back of a Mustang 1
Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:48 pm
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If you remove the amp module part from the top. (the handle screws and top screws). You can punch bang the back panel out from the inside without damaging it.
It's the best way.
I had a Mustang I in Europe that was easy to open.
Now I have a Mustang I (v.2) in the US and it was harder, and I had to do what I described.


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Post subject: Re: Removing the back of a Mustang 1
Posted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 11:12 pm
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pault138 wrote:
but i have a question about the wires going into the stock speakers...there are three! i am assuming the red one is hot? and black is ground? but there is also a red/green one in the middle that clearly seems to be ground...

on another combo amp that i have, there is no middle wire...just red and black.

can someone explain what each of the wires are??? thanks.


Sounds like shield ground. The main purpose would be to reduce picking up interference.

It's more commonly seen in countries with an electrical system where ground is separate from neutral/return, and you wire ground-to-ground on electrical apparatuses for shielding purposes. You'll then often find a chassis screw that has a ground symbol next to it, intended to hook up a ground wire between devices when using non-grounded outlets.


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Post subject: Re: Removing the back of a Mustang 1
Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2019 7:46 pm
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Hi, I opened my Mustang I v.2 today (27/01/2019). It was glued in different points. I had to remove the screws of the handle and the other two black screws at the top; push down hard the control panel (mind the cables connected to the power socket); use a piece of wood and a hammer to push the back out from the inside (careful, the back break easily where glued).

Here some considerations: I am an old electronic engineer and a guitarist fascinated by the new trend of simulating valves amps and vintage sounds. I have different valve amps, but I bought a Mustang I because it is amazing for moving around, teaching guitar, etc. I love it! Great sound.

I see that the concept developed by the Fender DSP team is misinterpreted. So I decided to participate to this discussion: the principle of the simulation is that a digital algorithm reproduce the sound of different amps and cabinet on a chosen speaker. In principle the speaker should be as linear (HiFi) as possible. If the speaker has a character it should be considered by the algorithm and compensated. See Kemper simulation that consider all the chain of amp + cabinet to acquire the parameters of a custom simulation.

Now, in a nutshell, if you change the speaker you affect the simulation as intended by the engineers of the Fender DSP R&D department. If you open the back you change as well the result. I am not saying that the sound is going to be bad or affected in a negative way. May be you will like it more, but it is going to be different from the intended simulation.

Now, I decided to modify my Mustang I adding the possibility to connect an external speaker (cabinet). The power amp inside the Mustang should not be overloaded with 4 ohm speaker and so I bypassed the internal speaker when the ext cabinet is connected. I connect a very flat 8 ohm cabinet, model: BareFaced Big Baby. The sound is different (naturally), but because the high efficiency and the flat response the result is interesting.

The problem I face now is this: when the Mustang use the internal speaker I have a result, when I connect the ext cabinet I have a different result. So I had to setup different preset to enjoy the same/better result. Actually, if you connect the phone output directly to a mixer or to a DAW, you have the same problem. So, in my opinion, the flattest is the speaker, the better it is.

The original speaker of the Mustang I v.2 is 8" and you have to push on the bass control to go closer to the original amps sometimes. If you use the headphone you have a lot more bass with the same preset!

I like the fact that the Mustang is PORTABLE. I think the model one V.2 is amazing as it is. So I decided to improve the sound just adding rock-whole inside the Mustang, having an absorbing closed cabinet, instead of an open. If you are interested in more efficient and larger speaker, to improve the bass response and the volume, I would suggest to go with a neodymium 9" or 10" speaker, may be an extended range, as flat as possible. This way you can control the simulation with the algorithm (Fender Fuse program) without overlapping the character of the speaker. It is not easy to enlarge the hole to accomodate a larger speaker, by the way! But if you love Mustangs and the work and cost of a good speaker are not relevant to you, let us know what was the result please.

Again, this are personal consideration, I am not saying that if you open the back and replace the speaker with a vintage one the sound will be not good.

Ciao!

Pietro


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