Hey everybody, glad to be back. It's been a while.
I play in Jazz Ensemble at my school, and their amp has been broken. They just got a new one in so I won't be bringing in my Mustang II anymore. They got a Frontman 212R, and when I went to plug it in for the first time today, it wouldn't start. I plugged in the chord and flipped the switch, but the light didn't come on and no sound would come out.
I know Fender doesn't usually just send out broken products, they have very good quality control. So my question is, am I do something wrong, or is there anything I could do to troubleshoot? I put them through a lot of trouble with getting the amp, and I just don't want to keep bothering them. I'll just pretend to play, and they'll never notice.

Thanks all, glad to be back.
FFS

_________________
"I'll get up there and do my guitar solos in one of those space outfits." ~ Ace Frehley
My YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/fenderflamestrat?

No pilot light = blown fuse.

http://support.fender.com/schematics/gu ... _Rev-A.pdf

Use a 4A fast blow fuse per the schematic. The fuse is located inside the amp cabinet. If you are not comfortable opening up the amp to replace the fuse, take it back to the place of purchase.

_________________
Bill

Brand new amps shouldn't blow fuses. Fuses blow due a problem, usually in the power supply.

This should be brought to the attention of the band's adult supervision. If a new amp then it is under warranty and should be fixed for free. You aren't hassling anyone, but doing them a favor letting them know about it.

Defective parts often show up after just a few hour's use. Recently there was a post about a new Bassman 100T tube head failing after a few hours. That is a $2000 list price amp with a $1500 street price, so it isn't just that one amp. This is true of all brands. Just some little part fails usually after only a few hours use. Fender doesn't make all the parts, but assembles parts they obtain from other parts suppliers. It worked to pass inspection but then some part failed.

You should not try to replace internal fuses yourself because it is not only dangerous but would also void the warranty. If it is the fuse and you do manage to replace it without killing yourself then it would likely just blow again almost immediately. It truly needs to go in for warranty service and the sooner it does the sooner it will work! If they got it from a local dealer they might even just swap it for a new one. The longer you wait to tell them the longer it will take to get fixed.

Ok...before we jump to blown fuses and warranties and such, let's check a few things...

Walczak's first rule of trouble shooting - Is it plugged in? I don't know about the 212's specifically but A LOT of newer amps are coming with detachable power chords...pretty much identical to what's on the back of your computer. Make sure -both- ends of it are plugged in! I know it sounds stupid but after many years of doing PC tech support, it's really amazing how many people over-look this.

Likewise, do you have power at the outlet? If you're planning on playing electric guitar for ANY period of time, do yourself a favor and run to Home Depot, Lowes or Sears Hardware and blow $6 for an outlet tester. Trust me...it's the second best investment you'll ever make as a musician (right behind a good cable tester!). I can't tell you how many times I've ran into this over the years...a bad or poorly wired wall outlet. Just had this happen a couple months back at a bar we were playing...the bass player was setting up the PA system and couldn't figure out why we had no power. He spent a good 15 minutes checking cables, checking fuses, etc...the wall outlet was dead (turned off at the breaker actually). Further, don't assume that just because the breaker is on, that the outlet is actually wired correctly...it only takes a putz with a screwdriver to mis-wire an outlet...and it's a bit frightening how many "grounded outlets" there are out there where the ground simply isn't connected. Seriously...an inexpensive outlet tester is worth it's weight in gold!

Walczak's second rule of trouble shooting - is it turned on? Ok...again I don't know about the FM 212's or anything but A LOT of guitar amps have various switches OTHER than the power switch. With my old Bandmaster for example, it's not hard for someone to reach behind that amp and flip the ground lift switch instead of the power! Again, it sounds stupid but most folks do it at one point or another.

Likewise, while I understand that it's a new amp, don't rely on that power light to tell you if the amp is really on...make sure the volume on the guitar is turned up, that the cable is good (and plugged in) and -listen-. Amp jewels and even LED's blow...it's an imperfect world.

BTW...when all else fails, try reading the owners manual! Maybe there's something there that says "Before you begin..." or Quick Start Guide, etc.. Also while I've never heard of this on a guitar amp, it's not unheard of for an electrical device to have a little strip of plastic or something over the electrical contacts to keep it from being used until it's time.

Now if all that fails, as Dave said being a new amp, it's under warranty...make sure that whoever was responsible for the purchase takes advantage of it! Yes, a brand new amp -should- be good to go right out of the box, but again...it's an imperfect world. Maybe that amp took a hard knock during shipping or something that knocked something inside loose...it happens...particularly with items shipped UPS!!!

Good luck!
Jim

The epitaph on this comes from the repair tech who handled the 'farmed out' amp repairs for the GC in the town I used to live in. He called the Frontman line 'throwaway amps.' Chinese built, he said they used to recommend cutting the cords and trashing them...that they were just not worth repairing. When right, they seem to offer sufficient bang for the buck, and Fender vibe, at an affordable price. Hopefully, the triage suggested by Lomitus will bear fruit, and the school will have the advantage.

_________________
"Another day in paradise!"