For Experimenting: I just tried 1000 grit sandpaper on my old cheap no brand guitar neck for the first time, and as you can see, left part is already sanded a little; right part is not sanded yet. It does feel more smooth and comfortable, and I would sand down the whole neck for this old cheap guitar.


BUT, after trying sanding on my old cheap guitar, for some reason now I don't really want to do it with my "Fender 57 Reissue Stratocaster Made In Japan Since 1993's Poly Maple Neck" anymore, partly because I don't want to lose to the original. Of course playability is more important, but personally, I just don't find sanding making "A HUGE" difference in terms of smoothness. A lot of you would probably disagree with me on this, but it's just my personal preference after trying it out myself...


SO, I thought might as well stick with the gentle way for solving sticky maple neck issues which is using these I got beside me: (I understand for smoothness these can't be as effective as sandpaper but at least they should help? I mean, with my maple neck, a little more smooth than how it is now, then I'm satisfied.)




QUESTION:
1) If I rub my maple neck with a rag with this lemon oil and let it dry, then do it again, is it going to be: the more times I repeat this step the more smooth it will get? or with lemon oil + rag no matter how much I do it, it's just going to be the same amount of stickiness that I lose?
2) If I use this powder often, is the neck going to be less and less sticky over time, or no matter how long, when the powder is gone, the same amount of stickiness is back?
3) Anyone have any review on this lemon oil / powder brand? are they safe for poly maple neck?

any reply will be highly appreciated thank you : )

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I'm kinda thinking lemon oil + powder make sticky goo.One or the other by itself maybe.Maybe I'm missing something here ,but seems like bad idea together.It seems like lemon oil doesn't really dry completely and is generally used on a rosewood board as it kind of absorbs the oil and sucks it in to the wood.Lemon oil on maple sits on surface.
Best of luck

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1986 Fender Sidekick Reverb 35
1990 Fender Red Knob - "The Twin"
1992 Fender Newporter - Acoustic
2000 Fender American Series Strat - Natural ash
2010 Fender Mustang 1
2011 Fender Blacktop Jazzmaster -Sunburst
2012 Fender Champion

you could try "autoglym super resin polish" , and then some "autoglym super gloss protection" , i don't know how long it will last on the neck , i use it on my car and it is very shiney and slippery , and i wouldn't use lemon oil and talc together , hth , cheers
Alan

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The lemon oil should not penetrate the impervious plastic seal of the finish. But it probably will help clean off grease and grit from the surface making it feel smoother. Any polish should do that though.

The trouble with using powders like talcum or baby powder is that the powder eventually works into the string windings on the wound strings and leads to premature string death, but that doesn't stop lots of players from using powders. They are effective, but sort of messy.

Actually on the silicone strings of the Ashbory bass and on upright basses with gut strings talc powder does no harm at all. On the Ashbory silicone bass strings powder on your fingers is actually recommended and in fact quite necessary.

Instead of using powder on traditional metal wound strings I'd instead recommend an old standby product specially created for guitars called "Tone Finger-Ease." This aerosol spray is time tested. The aerosol can is small and slim and fits easily in a guitar case. I've used it off and on since the late 1960's. It is about $5 a can. It also cuts down on finger squeak on wound strings so it is often used by session players. I usually finish a new string setup on my basses with a quick blast of it. A can lasts a very long time unless you go nuts with it. Sort of like Brylcreem, "a little dab will do ya" so you only need one brief pass on the fretboard. You can find it at about any music shop that sells any guitar stuff. It works equally well for guitar or bass and apparently does no harm at all to metal or wood even when applied on a regular basis for decades.

Use Naptha (lighter fluid) I'd steer clear of lemon oil. I've been doing this for over 40 years. The Naptha just evaporates and leaves no residue.

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If naptha does not clear your sticky neck issue, don't bother with the lemon oil / powder experiment. Sanding is not the answer either since it will make you neck look like crap. Instead, use 0000 steel wool and rub the neck down. It will give the neck a very even and smooth satin finish look and feel. It will be smoother than you could ever imagine!

Excuse me, does anyone has a picture of a maple fretboard that's sanded / steel wool Before and After picture? I've seen rosewood neck getting sanded on youtube and the change of the look is pretty obvious. I'm just wondering how it looks after a maple fretboard get sanded / steel wool. How does the look change? any of you did it or can find a picture / video of before and after? o.0

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