Can't find for sale anymore. What should I use instead?

The following is a copy of an earlier post I made in the Fender Precision Forum on this subject:
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Now that is a can of worms. I sort of hate to get into it because, like strings you'll get a bunch of different suggestions on cleaning rosewood and people will disagree and post their favored magical rosewood elixir.

It is generally accepted that maple fingerboards/fretboards should NEVER be oiled. Just clean them. On maple you can lightly use 000 steel wool to clean the wood with no fear and then just buff the maple with an old white sock. There, it looks new and you are done. The steel wool loosens surface dirt and also polishes the frets making them look nice. You can safely use a toothpick to get to any grunge that builds up right next to the frets. Toothpicks are way softer than the maple so it can't hurt the maple. Repeating, DO NOT oil maple boards! YES it WILL cause the finish on maple boards to rot.

When it comes to dark woods like ebony and rosewood, there are several schools of thought on that. Some oil, some don't. Heck, some never do ANYTHING but change strings!

One school says the oil in your fingers is enough to keep a rosewood fretboard oiled. All you need to do is wipe down the strings after playing and your are done. However the problem I have with that practice is some players' fingers are relatively oil free, like mine. If the board starts paling or streaking, then your fingers probably aren't oily enough to keep it dark. And what about that gunk that collects around the frets?

Another school says that you should use no oil. But it is OK once a year or so remove the strings and buff the rosewood fretboard with the steel wool to cleanse it and then buff with a soft cloth. Pretty much like it was maple. This gets rid of the grime on the open areas of the wood, but again there will be the buildup around the frets, so you can use toothpicks to clean around the fretwires. The toothpicks are again softer than rosewood. This works.

Yet another school uses just a few drops of oil on rosewood boards first, then 000 steel wool, then toothpicks and buffs with a soft cloth thoroughly. The oil helps loosen dirt and softens the gunk buildup at the frets so it comes off easier with the 000 steel wool and the toothpicks around the frets. But some people seriously overdo the oil figuring more is better. I think that if you are using more than a few drops you are using too much. The oil helps loosen surface grime and it can make the fretboard look a tad darker too. Just don't overdo it! Think of it as a CLEANING process instead of an OILING process. This method seems sensible.

Among the oilers there are several schools of thought about how often and what oil or specialized fretboard conditioner to use. I figure the frequency should vary based on how frequently it gets dirty. If the fretboard LOOKS dirty...I'd clean it at the next string change. If not dirty, why bother?

Some people use pure lemon or linseed oil or mineral oil. Others use furniture polish and others use a product that quickly evaporates called Endust which is safe for about any guitar finish but doesn't really soften up much grime around frets or darken the wood color. I've even heard of people that use a soft rag dampened with tap water! Actually, the water cleans good. The Dunlop brand is popular and so is Dr. Ducks Ax Wax but Dr. Ducks Ax Wax dries hard which is good on paint but not so good on rosewood. Martin Guitars of Nashville actually recommends the all purpose household type "3 In 1 Oil" to their customers. Don't dare get "3 In 1 Oil" or any of this stuff (except the Endust or Dr. Ducks Ax Wax) on the painted area or the back of the neck. It really doesn't matter what oil you use as long as you get almost all of it off. Rosewood is pretty hard and is mostly nonporous but just enough oil will soak into the top cell layers to yield a slightly darker color which is attractive to some players. I lightly rub rosewood with just a drop of lemon oil and let it stand a few minutes to soften up grime then clean it with the steel wool on the rosewood, use toothpicks around the frets, then finish with a good hand buffing using a clean dry old gym socks, and I'm done. Worn white gym socks are white t-shirts are good to buff as they are very soft, absorbent and immediately show dirt. You are finished the frets should appear shiny and the fretboard clean. The wood should not be oily looking though. Get as much of the oil and dirt off as possible. Oil kills fresh strings in no time and dirt kills them too eventually.

If you want to just buff your board with an old sock and skip the steel wool and oil that works for a very long time before the frets get really grungy and you need toothpicks.

"Different strokes for different folks. And so on and so on and scoobie doobie doobie." (Sly Stewart)