never mind. dumb question.

a little more on this please niki.
also some info on how we can do this adjustment.

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63supro
"The good thing is in a club situation, most of the patrons are trashed and really can't tell the difference."

I've got 2 big round brass ones!

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"Life is like eating jalapenos. What you do today may burn your arse tomorrow"

I figure, If you take the E string and bring it to pitch. Make sure that it is setup at about the proper action and the intonation is set at the 12th. Then, if the 3rd fret G is a little sharp we need to increase the distance from the 3rd fret to the saddle while maintaining the 12th fret as the perfect half. We could move the nut back a couple mm's and the saddle away the same amount. This would make the distance from the third fret to the saddle longer lowering the pitch a few cents, and maintain the 12th fret E.

I don't know the mm's to cent ratio for the different gauge strings, but I'm sure you could find it or figure it.

move the nut back towards the high E tuner?
if you do that what do you use to fill the gap between the fetboard and the nut?

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63supro
"The good thing is in a club situation, most of the patrons are trashed and really can't tell the difference."

I mean on the nut is where the adjustment would be. The break point I believe its called? I would guess that you would want a 1/4 in. nut to have room to move the break point forward or back on the nut.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/images/necks/recessed_string_nut.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/necks/stringnut.aspx&usg=__bV2Z5H_DTqKz-qwEi8-IorbGdvU=&h=350&w=263&sz=50&hl=en&start=0&zoom=1&tbnid=R_4zv6Z2BLzXiM:&tbnh=130&tbnw=98&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dcompensated%2Bnut%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26biw%3D992%26bih%3D549%26tbs%3Disch:1&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=120&vpy=43&dur=3756&hovh=259&hovw=195&tx=101&ty=273&ei=s7TITJSJE8KBlAfRm9H3Ag&oei=s7TITJSJE8KBlAfRm9H3Ag&esq=1&page=1&ndsp=15&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0

It's not so much a measurement, atleast I never did it like that.
Stephen Delft has written a wonderfull piece on it.
http://www.mimf.com/nutcomp/index.htm
(I took a lot of ideas from that page.But didn't want to go glueing slithers of bone onto my nuts)
All I did was take a earvana nut (was never happy with the offsets) use it's sliding mechanism along with a tuner to find a point where the 1st and 2nd fret were more in tune than they are with a standard nut. Measured from the edge of the first fret to the break point of the earvana nut. Then worked out that measurement from the back edge of the nut slot on the fretboard.



Here's the measurements I got for the typical 6 saddle bridge



Here are those measurements roughly marked onto the L shaped piece of bone.



Instead of widening the nut slot in the fretboard. I made a shelf that overhangs the fretboard.
Like so



Here's a side on view of it in the guitar, a strat in this instance.



I also did one for 3 saddle Telecasters with the typical Wilkinson design compensated saddles. Though they make that guitar play much nearer tune, they still aint quite good enough for my liking. So I set about the same method of measureing. Find the nearest point which gives as pure a 1st and 2nd fret on the high E. Note that measurement. Intonate at bridge check B string, find that point, reintonate if needed. Bit of a longwinded process but I got there and got a result I'm delighted with. I can live without nut end compensation on a 6 saddle guitar. I cannot tolerate a 3 saddle guitar without it though. I've tried to go back to a normal nut on my tele and can't. I regularly play strats with normal nut's though.

If you want to go down that rabbit hole. I strongly recommend the Earvana over the Feiten system. It is far more accurate, just a lot uglier.

Here's my strat and my tele both with shelf nuts. As you can see their both very different shapes.

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No no and no

ok all of this is WAY out of my league fellas. i'll just take your word for it though.

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63supro
"The good thing is in a club situation, most of the patrons are trashed and really can't tell the difference."

Niki, an adjustable brass nut for a Precision bass guitar, I saw one on Matt Reeves bass guitar ( Majesty's old bassist ) an early model with the single coil pickup like the Telecaster bass guitar, might you have a pic of one of those, I've been having a devil of a time locating one.

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you can save the world with your guitar one love song at a time it's just better, more fun, easier with a fender solid body electric guitar or electric bass guitar.

Mosrites use a brass nut and zero fret, which works rather superb, in this opinion.

I would go with bone because it is sharper with tone.

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“The guitar is a small orchestra. It is polyphonic. Every string is a different color, a different voice.”


- Andreas Segovia

i dunno what type my nuts are but the one on my strat broke last year. i'm pretty sure they're both made out of the same material.

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riley