Yeah I see the problem of affecting the other strings. I thought the main point of the roller nut was that theres no chance of the string snagging in the nut.
Surely theres gotta be a better way to do that than having a recessed break point?

I'm strangely drawn to those rollers though Ceri. Who makes em?

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No no and no

Which - the three roller ones in the picture I posted? That's an old Wilkinson-Gotoh design. I think they're still out there - but I have no use for mine. Want me to pop it in the post to you?

Cheers - C

No I have nothing to put it on at the moment.

I'm just interested in getting a exploded drawing for one. See if I can't come up with something better.

I thought the Wilkinsons were massive affairs, like this



Mr X may well be interested in it though.

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No no and no

That's the one that used to be on the Jeff Beck Strat, isn't it?

I think the one I pictured preceeded the LSR - if I remember right. The problem with it - two strings per barrel - are what the LSR was developed to rectify. If I have it right, that is.

I notice the one in my picture is still available from Axesrus as it happens. I got mine several years ago from the Ebay seller Bezdez, based at a shop in Canada.

Now: the thing the world requires from you, Nick, is a compensated LSR. Go to!

- C

so it seems there is a lot of good quality possibilities out there indeed,
but it also sounds like the easier and less hassle would be a graphite nut.
anybody disagree?

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63supro
"The good thing is in a club situation, most of the patrons are trashed and really can't tell the difference."

Can you imagine the difficulty in putting that roller system on the shelf of a compensated nut?
Watchmakers couldn't do it. You'd need bearings so small you'd have to get nanobots to work em.

A bit outside the scope of my kitchen table adventures.

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No no and no

Hi Way Cool: graphite, TUSQ, Corian, Micarta - can you honestly hear a meaningful difference? Some say they can: if not, go with the one you think looks nice. Black, ivory... whatever.

Or for the same price buy a nice joint of beef on the bone, cook it, eat it - and wake up the next morning and make a dozen nuts out of the leftovers. Easy.

Cheers - C

EDIT: dyslexia

I absolutely can imagine, yes!

On the other hand, I have extreme faith in the capacity of your kitchen table.

Cheers - C

i want something thats not gonna bind up my strings.
i know a lot of that is in the nut prep and polish but........
so if i slot my nut for say 10's, and then want to go back to 9's
would that pose a problem or am i good to do so?

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63supro
"The good thing is in a club situation, most of the patrons are trashed and really can't tell the difference."

Tusq

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Blues with a feeling.

GUILD GUITARS: MADE TO BE PLAYED!

Now you're getting to one of the biggest nonsense myths to ever grace a internet forum ever, that you have to have slots cut exactly for a certain string size.

I challenge anyone to go buy a new strat made anywhere in the world and find me a high E that is narrower than .016". I want to see a detailed set of photos showing the feeler gauge not fitting.
Rob Schwarz said over on the strat forum that they just use the slotting saw for the high E.
I've seen new LP standards at .02". Remember their slots have to fan out a smidgen at the back of the nut, to accomodate the angle of the tuners.

I've been round a shop full of strats with a set of feeler gauges.

It's a nonsense made up by techs/hacks to get you to pay them £20 for doing nothing.
The other great myth is nutsauce. It's nothing but KY jelly or vasceline in a syringe, that doesn't work on a nut slot unless you grease the slot when the string is at pitch. If you grease the slot then restring. You drag all the grease back out the slot as you tighten the string. You're better off to just grease your strings. Or do as I do, use very waxy dental floss to clean your nut slot. The wax gets into any of the open pores that cause the friction and smoothes em out, and your guitar smells minty fresh too. You don't get any ugly grey graphite stains either.

Incidentaly for those inquiring minds that wonder why Fender ever switched from the Wilkinson roller nut to the LSR. I believe you'll find the answer here. From the mouth of the great man himself.

http://www.garycooper.biz/articles/interviews06xx.html

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No no and no

I have been thinking about it and I can not get my mind wrapped around a compensated nut. Does it have to do with string stretch? I can't see it.

Great article Nik!

So that auto-tuning guitar of Gibsons was his idea?!?!

What is Mr. Wilkerson up to these days? Since the article was written in 2005.
-T

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-T

"You can't spend what you ain't got, you can't lose what you ain't never had" ~ McKinley Morganfield

Matt

Basically nut end compensation is a way to intonate the first few frets of the fretboard. You will have likely noticed that you can't get all open chords to sound intune. That is mainly because bridge end intonation doesn't really have any affect below the 8th fret. The nut end of the neck needs similar adjustment to make those first few frets work to a acceptable standard.

People often mistakenly attribute the problem to the inherent problems of the tempered scale of notes we use these days. Saying that it is a flaw with modern music.
Whilst that is true, it is not the whole problem. Intonation does play a big part of it with guitars and other modular string instruments.


Tyrone

Trev Wilkinson still makes some of the best guitars on the planet today. Search the fretking models. Not to everyones tastes but faultless instruments. He is still making topclass replacement parts also.

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No no and no

So it is magic. I knew it!

No I think I've got it. Its a way to have a distance from the nut to the saddle and have a distance from the fret to the saddle both come closer in intonation. Any Idea how to calculate this?