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Post subject: nuts
Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 5:13 pm
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bone or graphite? why?
if neither whats your choice and why?

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Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 5:36 pm
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I've tried both. bone, because it is classic and there is not enough of an advantage for any thing else. Although I haven't tried squirrel turds.
Are you replacing your nut now?


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Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 5:59 pm
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Graphite, or my own design, compensated, one piece shelf nut.

Not enough tonal difference to justify the hardship of smoothing the slots with bone. The only reason I use it is because I get ankle bone free with choice cuts of meat from a butcher near me.

Graphite gives smoother string pass through the slot. Corian is good also.

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Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 6:41 pm
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I have not tried making my own. That might change my opinion if bone is hard to work with.


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Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 7:07 pm
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Bone is incredibly hard to prep (takes months to do right), cut (I resorted to the disc cutting dremmel attatchment) and carve (I mostly use a belt sander).

Bare in mind you can only really use a 3-4" section of the cowleg too. It gets too thin one way and too weak the other.

Nightmare material really.

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Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 10:28 pm
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niki what is corin?
im thinking about another nut other than plastic on the new HW1.

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Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 10:34 pm
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Why not use a roller nut?

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Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 10:39 pm
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Jeffytune wrote:
Why not use a roller nut?


iont know a lot about them. i hear they change your tone by brightening it up. do they make them standard nut size?

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Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 1:34 am
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way cool jr wrote:
niki what is corin?
im thinking about another nut other than plastic on the new HW1.


Corian is a man-made material used for making counter tops for kitchens and baths. http://www2.dupont.com/Corian_Global_La ... index.html

tusq is another man-made material/product that Graphtech sells...
http://www.graphtech.com/

-T

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Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 2:27 am
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You most likely have corian on there now anyways. I'm sure thats what Fender use.

The rollernut is a good idea. Really don't worry about it brightening tone. Thats largely a fallacy, as it is with any nut material.
The nut cannot affect the sound of fretted notes. So unless you exclusively play open chords, the minimal difference in nut material is going to make only microscopic differences to the overall sound of the guitar.

They do require that you get the fretsaw and the chisel to the nut slot of your neck though.

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Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 3:40 am
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nikininja wrote:

They do require that you get the fretsaw and the chisel to the nut slot of your neck though.


yeah but then you cant go back if ya dont like it. i'll probably go graphite.

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Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 3:51 am
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You can go back, you just carve a wider nut from bone or whatever.

Earvana do a graphite compensated nut for guitars that had a rollernut in them. I'm suprised that more companies don't make a thicker nut for people that want to go back to plastic/bone. For as many people that like rollernuts, theres as many that dont. The visual difference is minimal. I'm sure the LSR rollernut looks so huge on the guitar because it's so different. It's striking and pokes you in the eye, almost. When you switch em out to bone or plastic, the difference in size is noticable but doesn;t grab your attention so much.
Or maybe thats just me? :?

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Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 4:00 am
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Deluxe Matt wrote:
I haven't tried squirrel turds.



That's just silly, but this has possibilities:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coprolite


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Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 4:29 am
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Looking at the break point of the roller nut, it seems to be towards the center of the nut, rather than the leading edge.

Image

That slither of timber you do have to take from the fretboard (0.094")is a problem. If you re-install a standard shaped nut to that, it will throw your intonation off.
You could still carve bone to convert back, but would need to create a step on the visible part of the nut. Not impossible, but not easy.

Shame they didn't have the foresight to put one long continuous roller on the leading edge of the nut and take 0.94" from the wood behind the nut.

Bah some people eh. Chancers doing half a job. (JK) :D

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Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 4:38 am
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nikininja wrote:
Shame they didn't have the foresight to put one long continuous roller on the leading edge of the nut and take 0.94" from the wood behind the nut.

Yeah, but then the point is that you can bend one string and pull it to and fro across the nut without affecting the other strings, right? Even this type of roller nut is compromised in that department, having two strings per roller:

Image

So happens I've had one of those in my draw for many years. Never felt the need to bother fitting it. Graphtech's TUSQ nuts have always served me very nicely - till Nikininja ruined my life by introducing me to better possibilities... :wink:

Cheers - C


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