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Post subject: Repair a broken Headstock? - Archtop
Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 6:02 am
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Someone near me is selling this guitar for $75. I was thinking I might fancy attempting to repair. Can't tell much from the pics but it looks like a pretty clean break. Would love to hear some opinions from others who have done similar repairs. Seems like a low risk - high reward situation.

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Post subject: Re: Repair a broken Headstock? - Archtop
Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 6:36 am
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Hi Kong: a Gibson/Epiphone with a broken headststock? Now there's a novelty! :lol:

You have the bit between your teeth on this stuff nowadays, don't you? :D

Low price or no, you gotta inspect it in person. If you can fit the two pieces back together perfectly with no missing or twisted wood then it is fairly easily do-able, though there will still be finish repair issues and such. There's more to this than just glue and elastic bands.

If it seems more damaged than that, well, it can still be addressed, but mashed/twisted/splintered timber is rather more tricky. Up to you if you still want to take it on. Worth a try for a Cherry Red 335, maybe?

We absolutely cannot tell which way the wind blows from those tiny pictures. We need to see much, much more. Or you do, at least.

Good luck! - C


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Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 7:03 am
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Even if it is broken beyond repair you could throw on a locking nut and whatever kind of bridge setup they have of steinbergers and have that cool headless thing going on.

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Post subject: Re: Repair a broken Headstock? - Archtop
Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 8:13 am
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Ceri wrote:
Hi Kong: a Gibson/Epiphone with a broken headststock? Now there's a novelty! :lol:

You have the bit between your teeth on this stuff nowadays, don't you? :D

Low price or no, you gotta inspect it in person. If you can fit the two pieces back together perfectly with no missing or twisted wood then it is fairly easily do-able, though there will still be finish repair issues and such. There's more to this than just glue and elastic bands.

If it seems more damaged than that, well, it can still be addressed, but mashed/twisted/splintered timber is rather more tricky. Up to you if you still want to take it on. Worth a try for a Cherry Red 335, maybe?

We absolutely cannot tell which way the wind blows from those tiny pictures. We need to see much, much more. Or you do, at least.

Good luck! - C



Hey Ceri,

Good advice, if I get a chance to inspect it and if it goes together perfectly, I'll buy it. If I could get it back together, I would not be all that worried about aesthetics, but I would try to get it as nice as possible.

I have not researched and "how-to" articles on this type of repair; but assuming it could be fitted together is it just a matter of applying a thin layer of glue to both pieces where they are to join and then clamping. Are rubber bands a real option for clamping or is it better to use some type of clamp or combination of clamp and rubber bands... Actually I'm getting ahead of myself, I'll check it out first and we can get to the how-to's if the thread continues.

Thanks
~Kong

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Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 8:14 am
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Tochai wrote:
Even if it is broken beyond repair you could throw on a locking nut and whatever kind of bridge setup they have of steinbergers and have that cool headless thing going on.


Had not thought of that, it might be and interesting option to say the least. A very nontraditional looking traditional guitar.

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Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 8:41 am
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Hi Kong: oops - the bit about elastic bands was very much a joke! (Note to self: be more careful how you express things, Ceri...)

Actually, even assuming the break is clean and reassembles perfectly, clamping is usually the most challenging part of these types of jobs. I'd be doing some careful dry runs and using decent quality cork lined clamps. I have some of these "cam-clamps", which are very nice in this sort of situation and not expensive (I get mine from a regular tool supplier; cheaper than Stew-Mac for the identical product):
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And the very precise adjustability of tradition G-cramps, suitably lined or cauled, is probably very useful here as well (not instead of):
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(Excuse me shamelessly raiding my own photos from other jobs: it's just the easiest way to find what I want to show.)

Dan has plenty of good stuff to say about this repair in The Guitar Player Repair Guide: look at pages 166-168. In fact, don't attempt it without reading that, cos there's too much to say it all here! :D

Though aliphatic (white carpenter's) glue would work, Dan has a leaning towards hide glue for this task, and for some reason my instinct is the same. In a different area of life I have a lot of experience with hide glue, it's not scary and I can easily talk you through how to use it if you are interested. Don't even think of using the ready-to-go hide glue in a tube, though. It is seriously crap! It is the real thing that arrives in granules we need here...

(It's called rabbit skin glue my side of the Atlantic. I'm told the stuff I buy really is made from rabbit skin, too!)

Good luck - C


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Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 10:22 am
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Some great photos Ceri... my reply was going to be much the same - if the two parts fit together perfectly then it's a very do-able repair, just needs care and gareful clamping (i.e. not with rubber bands or gaffer tape! :lol: )

Good luck if you go for it

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Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 2:34 pm
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Hi Kong,as Ceri said if the wood isn't deformed or twisted or there are no pieces missing a good wood glue should do the trick,provided it's left long enough to set.A buddy of mine had a '68 SG-another infamous Gibson- with a broken headstock and glued it and left it set for a long time(he forgot about it and it was a couple of months at least)anyway that was over 30 yrs ago and it's still going strong.I'd recommend using light gauge strings such as 8-38 or 9-42 once you get it fixed to lessen the strain on the neck.BTW the parts alone are worth more than the asking price if all else fails as Epi humbuckers are really decent pups.

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Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 4:29 pm
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Kong I say buy it.

It looks just like my Dot, and it's a fine instrument.

even if a couple little pieces are missing it is less work to fix than you put into your recent repair.

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Posted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 10:54 pm
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Like Ceri said if that break is clean where the part fit back well together and no other issues I would go for it at $75. but only after making a $50. offer first.

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Posted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 4:43 am
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cvilleira wrote:
Like Ceri said if that break is clean where the part fit back well together and no other issues I would go for it at $75. but only after making a $50. offer first.

Haha - I like your style! :D

Cheers - C


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Posted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 6:42 am
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Glue, cauls, clamps?

A generous wrapping with duct tape is the only way to go!!!

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Posted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 7:00 am
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Martian wrote:
Glue, cauls, clamps?

A generous wrapping with duct tape is the only way to go!!!

This thread has been waiting for the calm voice of reason to arrive. :D

Cheers - C


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Posted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 7:02 am
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Ceri wrote:
Martian wrote:
Glue, cauls, clamps?

A generous wrapping with duct tape is the only way to go!!!

This thread has been waiting for the calm voice of reason to arrive. :D

Cheers - C


:D :D :D

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Posted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 8:30 am
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Martian wrote:
Glue, cauls, clamps?

A generous wrapping with duct tape is the only way to go!!!
Only if it's the NASCAR approved 200MPH Duct Tape. :lol:

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