Hi,

I have just got some george l's for the pedal board but now i'm deciding
what cable i need to get for the cables going into amp/guitar etc.

Is it best to use GEorge L instrument cables so i have the same all around?

I need leads going from amp to pedal board, pedal board to guitar and then 2
leads going from send and return in the effects loop. Do i again the same brand/lead all round?

I have done a bit of reading and found that george l's are "ok" cables, "mid grade cables". To get a good brand your looking at brands like Evidence audio lyric, Lava Vovox. Mogami, etc

is it best to sell the george L's and get something like evidence audio throughout?

Would it make that much difference if i was to do that or just go with the george l's on the patch leads and evience audio connecting elsewhere?

Sorry to ask all these questions. It cost alot of money and i want to get it right first time. There are so many great products its hard to know which one to go for without plugging it in and hearing it yourself.

What other brands can better evidence audio in your opinion?

alot of questions!! sorry.

this will be a good thread though hey

Welcome to the Forum dean111music!
Fender makes excellent cables!
Why aren't you going wireless?

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you can save the world with your guitar one love song at a time it's just better, more fun, easier with a fender solid body electric guitar or electric bass guitar.

Live Wire cables have been very good to me........http://www.livewire-usa.com/ .............. Mike

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thank you. has anyone got an opinion on mixing brand names up in your rig??? does it matter?

Hi dean: George Ls are good cables and jacks. Absolutely fine for the job. If you like those then use them throughout by all means.

Though I've never heard of anyone worrying that they need to stick within a brand - unless they have an endorsement deal!

If you have money to burn by all means buy the very most expensive cables on the market. But honestly, this is an electric guitar, not top end hi-fi. If someone thinks they can hear a vital difference between upper-mid price and top price - well good luck to 'em! I can't.

I think the much more crucial difference is between a cable that's in good, newish condition and one that's been stepped on and kinked just one too many times. Crapped up leads: that's where the real problems come from...

Good luck - C

There's good cables...and dead cables.
Pretty soon you'll have lots of dead ones piled up,we all do....no matter what brand they are.
I do have a couple George Ls that are still kicking and they've been going for quite some time.

buying all these high dollar cables is a waste of money.
as long as your cables are sheilded with quality ends, your good.
all cables will eventually die, its a matter of time.
whats more important is how you handle the cords you using.
do you wrap them up properly? do you kick them around while
your playing? etc etc.
most importantly, learn to handle your cables properly
and invest in a good soldering iron and learn how to
use it. learn to wrap your wires and cold solder.

Nothing wrong with George L's cables. I like them. I use the .255's. They are noise free and light weight, the boots stay on well, but they're not as flexible as some cables. Eric Johnson supposedly uses them too. The tone is tight and clean and I actually picked up a little more bottom end on my Strat. They rated as a best buy in GP's cable shootout a ways back.

Watch the Fender cords. The lower priced cords are noisy especially the coiled cords. One of the mid level Fender cords I had was radiophonic. The higher end Fender cords are fine.

Cords and tone is very subjective. It's like strings, pups, picks, amps etc.
Capacitance can change your tone.

Don't fall for all the hype of the high priced cables, the tonal change isn't that great. Zero capacitance isn't always a good thing, it depends on your playing style, how much grit you like in your tone, and other things like bottom end, shimmer etc. If you're happy with the George L's stick with them. Just be aware like I said they are thin jacketed, light weight and stiff.

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+1, wireless is good, i'm thinking about getting a wireless set myslef.

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riley

Belden cable. 2 Switchcraft 1/4" connectors. Some solder. An iron. You're all set.

If you want pre-made ones, I agree that George L's are good. I've also used at one point or another cables by Allesandro, Zaolla, Vovox, Fender,
Spectraflex, Conquest and others.

This tester/cutter is also a good thing that comes in very handy :

http://www.guitarcenter.com/Planet-Wave ... 1129027.gc

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Wrong. I've A/B'd different types of cables and have absolutely heard signal loss through some of them.



That might be true, but don't forget, a lot of the higher end companies will give you lifetime warranties especially if you buy it from GC or something. They will trade your cable for a new one, no questions asked, even if your cable is brand new and working perfectly.

If you want a good cable, get a Mogami. And like I said above if you buy it from GC they will replace it for you FOR LIFE. AS MANY TIMES AS YOU WANT. That's right you heard me. End of story.


Soldering cables together is absolutely the most cost effective way to do it. But you don't get the warranty that way. Also I would say go with the mogami cable and neutrik connectors.

I can't say enough good things about Mogami. The signal loss is extremely low. It's all in the way they braid the shielding, which is a work of art in and of itself.

thank you.

what about Evidence Audio? Are they good/better than Mogami?

When you say GC you talking about guitar centre yeah? do they ship to uk

anyone used Pete cornish?

Every instrumentalist is faced with a variety of supplies to buy, and of course advertising plays a large role in consumer mentalities. In the world of instrument cables, this is no exception. Many brands produce cables ranging from the lower $20 ranges up to $200 a cable. Why is it, though, that many brands charge so much more for their cables? Can they really make or break your tone? The best weapon that a consumer can walk into a store with is knowledge. While this article is not going to convey one cable as bad and another as good, it will offer an unbiased explanation of cables, why they are priced as such, and will help you to make better purchasing decisions.


I believe it’s important to note than instrument cables are, for the most part, analog cables. There are numerous discussions about unfairness in advertising among specific brands regarding digital cables; because these forms of signal are carried differently, the arguments and counter-arguments against said brands are not going to be accounted for in this article.

So what’s in a guitar cable? This is the face that quite often shocks consumers who swear that one brand of cable provides better sound quality than another. Quite simply, a guitar cable is a shielded piece of copper wire, with a core diameter of .265”. All standard 1/4” instrument cables are this thickness, and therefore have the same resistance and signal impedance.

I’ll throw the big shocker in right now. What does this mean? Any two cables made of the same copper components and of the same length will deliver the same signal quality in the end. So yes, the $100 Monster "Rock" Cable, and the $20 LiveWire cable of equal lengths are essentially equal. The proof is in the laws of resistance: the equation (R=p*l/A) states that resistance (in Ohms) is proportional to the length and resistivity of the wire, and inversely proportional to the cross-sectional area of the wire. In layman’s terms, that means that a short, thick wire provides the best signal quality. And because the cross sectional area is the same, the resistivity of copper doesn’t change (16.78 nÙ·m), and the length of the wire is determined by the consumer, we come to the astounding conclusion that all these cables do in fact provide the same tone quality.

So we now know that the claim of an expensive cable being “better” cannot be attributed to signal quality. So what can they offer? While the signal quality is the same, what other aspects can be improved upon? Here’s a list of other cable aspects to look for which are often advertised:

-Shielding: To keep interference from reaching the “hot” center conductor where the signal is passing, the copper “shield” covers the conductive core. The shield is usually formed of braided copper, and a low transfer impedance to the ground is the sought-after quality.

-Insulation: The copper conductor must be insulated to preserve signal quality, and of course to protect the user. Most insulation is made from thermoset (rubber and neoprene) or thermoplastic (polyethylene and polypropylene) materials spread over the conductor, then vulcanized. Insulation doesn’t affect signal quality and is usually standardized across cables. The thickness does, however, determine cable flexibility.

-Protection against 60-cycle hum: Many cables, especially higher-priced ones, advertise a strong protection against electrical hum. The sad truth though is that this hum (sourced from 60 and 120Hz frequencies from power sources) are usually low enough in frequency to be stopped by anything but a ferrous metal component. The best defense against hum is to keep coiled-up excess cable stored away from power sources such as amplifiers and power splitters.

-Connecting Ends: We’ve all seen the attractive gold-plated connectors on some big-name brands. And of course, if it’s gold, it’s better...right? While many people believe that gold-plated connectors are “better”, they don’t know why. Gold is an attractive anti-corrosion element, but signal-wise, there is no benefit of having one connector over the other at the frequency range for instruments.

So if there isn’t a huge difference between the upper and lower priced cables, why is there such a gap? Why do some brands charge almost twice as much as the lower end cables, when they can’t offer much more? The answer is mark-up. Consumer reports have shown that many top-of-the-line cable manufacturers sell products at retailers for up to 200% price increase. It’s important for consumers to consider all brands of cables before buying, because while the higher-priced brands to offer nice little bonuses, in the end, they usually aren’t worth the money to the everyday person.

So go forth and buy new cables, but arm yourself with knowledge and be aware of your own needs and what different cables offer you. In the end, you can save yourself a lot of money with a little thought.

This is why I use Conquest cables, as they are Belden cable and Switchcraft plugs...

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I've been using the same Rapco Road Hog cables for at least 20 yrs and they still are in great shape.Mixing cable brands doesn't hurt as long as they don't sap your signal and are rugged that's all that matters.

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'65 Strat,65 Mustang,65 Jaguar,4 more Strats,3 vintage Vox guitars,5 Vox amps,'69 Bassman with a '68 2-15 Bassman cab,36 guitars total-15asst'd amps total,2 vintage '60s Hammond organs & a myriad of effects-with a few rare vintage ones.