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Post subject: LSR or Graphite
Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 1:00 pm
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what nut is the best for tuning stability

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Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:33 pm
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I'd call it a tie. Graphite of course has the advantge of being avaliable in what ever size you like to accomodate the nut width of your instrument.


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Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 3:42 pm
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I like a good cut bone nut.


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Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 3:47 pm
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chris63 wrote:
I like a good cut bone nut.

my dog would eat my guitar :?

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Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 9:02 am
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Both graphite and the LSR nut are excellent choices - however the difference will determine what the best choice is for each individual user. Graphite tends to have a slightly warmer tone and will work well with the use of string trees. The LSR nut is the last stop before going to a full blown Floyd Rose type of arrangement. If you use your Tremolo bar aggresively, but can't stand what a locking bridge & nut does to your tone, then, the LSR is the choice for you. Anyone who owns a Jeff Beck or American Deluxe HSS Strat can attest to this point.


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Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 9:20 am
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Sunny Boy wrote:
Both graphite and the LSR nut are excellent choices - however the difference will determine what the best choice is for each individual user. Graphite tends to have a slightly warmer tone and will work well with the use of string trees. The LSR nut is the last stop before going to a full blown Floyd Rose type of arrangement. If you use your Tremolo bar aggresively, but can't stand what a locking bridge & nut does to your tone, then, the LSR is the choice for you. Anyone who owns a Jeff Beck or American Deluxe HSS Strat can attest to this point.

thanks that was accurate :)

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Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 4:11 pm
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I like a good old bone nut also.


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Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 5:13 pm
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i've yet to get a guitar without a bone nut.


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Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 9:40 am
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I have used the LSR and the Wilkerson.
and like the LSR better.
never used Graphite

The LSR is truble free.
as long as you don't lose one of those little bearings....


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Post subject: Re: LSR or Graphite
Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 5:50 pm
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playforlife wrote:
what nut is the best for tuning stability


The ones with the most accurately cut nut slots stay in tune the best.

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Post subject: Re: LSR or Graphite
Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 5:56 am
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Not a fan of graphite.
I think it looks too "Rat Bike" for me.
I do like LSR nuts in though.
I've had a number of them and still have two guitars with them.
I've seen some folks express concern about their reliability.
My number one Strat gets played more than all my other electrics combined. It's 17 years old (1998) and has never given me a moment of grief.

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Post subject: Re: LSR or Graphite
Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2015 2:05 pm
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I haven't seen this group in a long while lol. I would try an LSR nut for sure.

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Post subject: Re: LSR or Graphite
Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2015 8:23 am
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Ok, this is just my own personal experience and opinions here, so please take them as such...

First off, don't waste your money on an LSR. I had put an LSR on my '96 Standard many years ago and the truth of the matter is that I wish I hadn't. There's nothing really "wrong" with them and I wouldn't turn down a guitar that had one, however as far as any sense of "upgrade", they're just not worth the cost or effort. First and foremost, if you're installing one on a guitar that has a traditional nut, they do require a degree of wood to be PRECISELY removed...they're NOT just "plug and play" and unless you have some fairly significant skills, it's very easy to destroy your guitar neck! More to the point however is that for the effort I went to installing mine, they do NOT provide any greater degree of "tuning stability" than a properly filed plastic nut will (more on this in a bit). They do however require some periodic maintenance...those little bearings CAN rust if you don't lube them periodically and if one freezes up, you'll have MORE tuning problems than you ever had with a traditional plastic nut. Also, once you go with an LSR, it makes it VERY hard to use anything else because you've already altered the neck...if you decide you don't like the LSR, you'll have to have bone or graphite custom cut to fit in the slot you cut for the LSR...again they're really just NOT worth it.

That out of the way, let's get to the meat here...

If you're having problems with "tuning stability", BEFORE you start changing things such as the nut, tuners, bridge, etc., TRY A PROPER SETUP FIRST! It's rather amazing how many people just don't understand this, but 90% of tuning problems with a Strat come down to the setup. Even if the guitar was setup by a "tech", do NOT assume that the person actually knew what they were doing!!!!! Half the yo-yo's working at music shops these days barely know the difference between an allen wrench and a screw driver. Consider this; people like SRV and Jimi Hendrix never had crap and gizmos like locking tuners or graphite this and that and they played the hell out of their guitars. What they DID have was competent techs who knew how to setup the guitars properly....it makes ALL the difference in the world.

If you're having tuning problems, this is my suggestion - figure out exactly what's causing the problem. Start with how you wrap your strings on the tuners...A LOT of people just do NOT know how to properly wind new strings. Don't assume you or your tech knows how to do it. Too few windings and the string can slip, too many and the string can bind...and the type of tuner DOES make a difference (vintage tuners are wound different than more conventional sealed tuners are). Second to that, MAKE SURE the existing nut is filed correctly! If for example you use .010's or .011's, there's a better than average chance the nut was never re-filed for the larger gauge string. This is another one that just amazes me, but there are people on these forums who will tell you it just doesn't matter - it does. If the nut was filed for .009's at the factory (most guitars are), even moving up just 1 gauge CAN cause the strings to pinch in the nut. Likewise, dirt, crap and crud in those string slots will cause strings to bind. Beyond this, it's also worth checking the relief on the truss rod, the break angle on the saddles/bridge, etc...and if you're like me and tend to tinker with such things, remember, it DOES take a while for a neck to settle in after a truss rod adjustment.

Also, if it's a new guitar, remember - unless you bought a custom shop instrument, most electric guitars are mass produced and it can often take up to a year or more for "new wood" to really settle in...it has NOTHING to do with gimmicks and gadgets, it's simply the nature of wood. Conversely, if it's an older instrument, remember that hardware can give you problems as the instrument ages...are those tuners properly lubricated? Are your saddle screwed rusting out? Are the trem springs getting weak?

It comes down to this; even a cheap Strat can play very well with a proper setup, however even the most expensive instrument from the Custom Shop WILL PLAY LIKE CRAP with a poor setup. It really is THAT simple.

BTW...if we're talking about an otherwise typical Strat, it's also worth remembering that with most Strats, you can only push that whammy bar so far. If you're trying to do dive bombs and such and this is what's causing the instrument to go out of tune, you may wish to consider a different instrument, perhaps with a double locking trem, that's more suited to such acrobatics. A well setup instrument should hold it's tune without gadgets and gimmicks, however even the best setup Strat in the world will go out of tune with severe abuse.




Seriously...everyone here is gonna have their own suggestions. Some folks will swear by bone, others will fork out money for graphite this and that and I suspect there's still some brass lovers out there somewhere as well. If your motivation for doing this however is simply a matter of tuning stability, figure out what's actually causing the tuning problem and a proper setup SHOULD be your first step.

Just my own $.02.


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Post subject: Re: LSR or Graphite
Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2015 10:42 am
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I have an Am. Deluxe HSS with an LSR and I've never had any problems. I have a Schecter Corsair with a graphite nut, also trouble free.


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Post subject: Re: LSR or Graphite
Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2015 5:52 pm
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I'll add a bit here.
Looking at the nut ( not the one at the keyboard ! ) on the 1st fret or more specifically where the string exits the nut for open or 1st fret, that is the fulcrum point for the string.

(1) The nut slot should be round, not square. Strings are round.
(2) The individual string is nestled in the rounded nut slot.
(3) Not tight as in binding nor loose but just snug enough that when oscillating it doesn't move side to side in the nut slot.
(4) In other words those individual slots have to be filed for each string and as mentioned before, those slots must be filed according to the string gauge.
(5) If you are going from 11's. 12's down to 10's or 9's, you will need a new nut fitted as those larger string slots have slop and you will have a buzz which you cannot pinpoint.

(6) from the edge of the string slot ( fingerboard 1st fret section ) going towards the tuners, the angle of the string slot should be horizontal with its respective string/tuner.
(7) in other words the low E string is going to need a sharper downward angle than the High E string and all the others correspond to that theme.( the further away the tuner peg, the shallower the angle )
(8) Once you have the proper angles from nut edge to tuner for each respective string, you can use a roller tree instead of the butterfly tree's. ( less tension with the former )

Now you can use a bit of graphite in the string slots ( N#2 pencil ) and off you go.

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