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Post subject: Maintenance
Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 12:38 pm
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Aspiring Musician
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What Maintenance do I need to do frequently on my strat besides changing strings and cleaning? Do I need to be concerned about things like saddle height and action height in mm? Because in all honesty, those things intimidate me very much. And also, how often should I have a set up done?


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Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 12:44 pm
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If you don't do your own setups I recommend having it checked twice (spring and fall) a year minimum as weather changes can effect your guitar.
If you do your own setups I would check the setup every string change.

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Post subject:
Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 1:26 pm
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what does checking the set up yourself entail?

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Formally known here as The Metalhead Punk
Gear:
Standard Stratocaster HSS w/ SD SH-6 Distortion in the bridge
Ernie Ball Strings
Monster Cables
Dunlop Picks
Peavey 5150 II 120watt Head
Vader 2x12 Cab 240watt


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Profile
Post subject:
Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 1:34 pm
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Action (String Height), Intonation, Neck Relief

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I didn't Lose my mind, I traded it for this guitar.


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Post subject:
Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 1:52 pm
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YOu check the action by measuring it at the 12th fret right? I am slightly confused what exactly the intonation is. Is it the tuning of the guitar or what? and how do you check neck relief?

_________________
Formally known here as The Metalhead Punk
Gear:
Standard Stratocaster HSS w/ SD SH-6 Distortion in the bridge
Ernie Ball Strings
Monster Cables
Dunlop Picks
Peavey 5150 II 120watt Head
Vader 2x12 Cab 240watt


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Profile
Post subject:
Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 2:05 pm
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I have to say that in my 40+ years of playing / performing I never did any of that crap after the initial setup. On my Gibsons I had a standard height gauge made by a die maker friend of mine for the action. That let me have string height exactly the same every time I changed strings (4 - 12 times a month), but as far as intonation once that was set I never changed it. If you are continually monkeying with intonation (string length from the nut to the bridge) then you have an inherently huge problem with your guitar. A quality guitar is already a precision instrument. Fenders and Gibsons are at the extreme end of high quality engineered stringed instruments.

NBG


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Post subject:
Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 2:07 pm
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This should help:

http://www.fender.com/support/manuals/p ... es2003.pdf

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Chet Feathers

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http://www.facebook.com/cafeathers


I didn't Lose my mind, I traded it for this guitar.


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Post subject:
Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 2:10 pm
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Oh Yeah! ...
Should go without saying but the obvious maintenance or tweaking that is necessary is having to do a truss rod adjustment when changing string gauges (of even one string). Because you dramatically change the tension on the neck when you do that.

NBG


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Post subject:
Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 2:24 pm
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oh shoot I just changed from 9's to 10's last week. What am I supposed to do to the truss rod? the only tweaking I did besides working with the strings was that I screwed in the little claw that holds the trem springs in tighter because my bridge was floating way higher than I wanted it to

_________________
Formally known here as The Metalhead Punk
Gear:
Standard Stratocaster HSS w/ SD SH-6 Distortion in the bridge
Ernie Ball Strings
Monster Cables
Dunlop Picks
Peavey 5150 II 120watt Head
Vader 2x12 Cab 240watt


Top
Profile
Post subject:
Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 2:40 pm
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Heavier strings put more tension on the neck. You will loosen the truss rod to compensate for that. Rule of thumb I go by is by perssing the string at the first fret and whichever fret is where the neck joins the body. Then set the truss rod so I have a gap of .030" at the fret at the midpoint. Then I never get any buzzing anywhere on the fret board.

NBG


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