So, as Martian advised me, I am getting another pickup selector. However, since it is different from the one I have (most guitars have the ground wires soldered to the volume pot, but mine are soldered to the pickup selector), should I solder the ground wires to the new pickup selector or to the volume pot? However, I am keeping my middle pickup stock, and the wires in my old Squier pickups were sort of like a two-in-one, so I'm not sure if they can be split wide enough at the end to go to the terminal and volume pot.

Some reference points:

http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf_temp1/stratocaster/0107400_02C/SD0107400_02CPg2.pdf


http://squierguitars.com/pdf/current/Strat/Bullet%20Strat%20with%20tremolo-%20Service.pdf

Thanks.

-The Screamin' J

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CURRENT RIG:
2008 Squier bullet stratocaster modified with Rumpelstiltskin pickups -> Dunlop GCB-95 Original Crybaby -> Fender Vibro Champ XD

"Could you take the stain from this pair of pants, and put in on this pair of pants?"

Hendrixfan I would put that middle tone wire back where it was and then run the jumper from that lug over to the empty lug that is next to it. Stock there should be no wires soldered on the lug between the middle tone and volume lug. When you solder that jumper between the mid tone lug and the empty lug you will have tone control of both the bridge and the middle pickup. You did not need to unsolder anything from the original setup. At this point what type of switch did you buy? And yes I would just pull the guard and rewire it all.

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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.

Thomas Jefferson

I'm gonna buy an American Standard switch, and the switch has zig-zagging terminals, unlike my Squier, which has a switch where the terminals are all lined up straight. Also, should I put a jumper between the top left terminal and the bottom right, because that's how I saw it wired on an American Standard?

Thank you.


-The Screamin' J

_________________
CURRENT RIG:
2008 Squier bullet stratocaster modified with Rumpelstiltskin pickups -> Dunlop GCB-95 Original Crybaby -> Fender Vibro Champ XD

"Could you take the stain from this pair of pants, and put in on this pair of pants?"

Forget the Squier diagram and wiring. Rewire your guitar using only the American Standard diagram. Note however on that diagram that the lower tone pot is wired on the selector switch so that it will control the middle AND the bridge pickups.

Solder all grounds to the volume pot.

You can always splice onto your pickups' wires to reach wherever they need to go. Preferably though, splice (and insulate) only the ground wires.

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You dig?

I've installed my pickups (and six strings), and they sound wonderful; clear, and bell-like.

I discovered that the bridge position now for some reason, actually works. Should I still replace the pickup selector? I am guessing that the answer's going to be yes.

By the way, is shielding as easy as I think it is?


-The Screamin' J

_________________
CURRENT RIG:
2008 Squier bullet stratocaster modified with Rumpelstiltskin pickups -> Dunlop GCB-95 Original Crybaby -> Fender Vibro Champ XD

"Could you take the stain from this pair of pants, and put in on this pair of pants?"

The vast majority of those OEM Squier type switches (also prevalent in many, many Ibanezs) eventually crap out, usually at the worst time.

As a wise man once told me many years ago: "Never try to circumvent the inevitable."

Change the switch!!

Personally, I think shielding is an utter waste of time and money. The components which would benefit the most from the shielding AND are the chief instrument for magnifying the hum are the pickups themselves. Ironically, they get the least amount of protection IF any, when someone decides to shield a guitar unless the pickups are sitting really low on the pickguard and even at this, the polepieces are the real receptors. So, if someone really did take the time to fully shield the pickups, what is called, "eddy currents" will reshape and alter the tone and output of them, usually in unwelcome ways. I know I'm in a minority here but this is my position and I'm sticking to it. In a direct answer to your question though, it is even easier than it appears to shield a guitar. And at the risk of sound facetious. that's because again, it really doesn't make any tangible difference. Well then, why does, "X, Y and Z" factory shield their stuff? Popular demand for a, "Placebo Effect".

OK everyone, commence flaming my buttocks!!!

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You dig?