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Post subject: Floyd Rose tuning
Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 11:02 pm
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Luckily it stays in tune really well, but when it goes out it is a pain to get back in tune. I can get 5 strings in tune, but whenever I go for the last it floats the bridge up and the 5 I had in tune go flat. When changing strings by the time I get the last one in tune the others are out and I have to start over. Have never been able to get all 6 in perfect tune. Can get them close enough to sound fine playing alone, but sounds off when jamming with friends and I end up reaching for my other guitar that I don't like as much.

Is there a trick to tuning a Floyd Rose bridge? One that is easy enough to make it worth keeping? I bought the guitar because it has the sweetest neck I ever played and thought the Floyd Rose was an added bonus.


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Post subject: FR
Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 12:01 am
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No tricks at all.
http://www.glowingtubes.com/p/FloydTuning.htm


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Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 12:45 am
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Thanx, that is pretty much what I was doing but thought I was doing it wrong so wasn't making enough passes. I was starting with the low E but by the time I got the high E in tune the others would be flat and I would start over again. Then tried starting with the high E but tuning them sharp expecting them to flatten as I worked my way down to the low E - didn't work out very well.

The tips on the link got it in better tune than its ever been in - a few more passes and think it would be perfect but decided it was good enough for now. Got new strings over a month ago but hate changing them on this guitar so they've been just sitting in the case - should be easier now so will give it a try tomorrow.


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Post subject: FR
Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 2:26 am
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I think many may be hesitant initially, but once you get it down, it easy. Make sure to give the fine tuners a few turns prior to tuning, makes it easier to "dial in" after you lock the nut (headstock).


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Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 9:39 pm
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Ended up working late(a good thing after all the cutbacks!) so would rather play than change strings so will put that off till tomorrow, but think the tips on the link will make it alot easier than usual. Still not looking forward to it. Seems like I have to retune it every day for the first week or 2 after a string change, then it is good for a couple months. I only play it a half hour or so a day. When friends are over I usually play my other guitar or an acoustic since they is quicker to tune up than the Floyd Rose. That's about the only time I play the Strat - if I'm sitting home alone I grab the Stagemaster so the tips on how to get all six strings in tune at the same time(what a concept!) will give me a bit more variety when it comes to jammin. Before I could get it close enough that it wasn't noticable unless I was playing with someone else.


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Post subject: donedeal
Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 1:48 am
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stagemasterplayer wrote:
Ended up working late(a good thing after all the cutbacks!) so would rather play than change strings so will put that off till tomorrow, but think the tips on the link will make it alot easier than usual. Still not looking forward to it. Seems like I have to retune it every day for the first week or 2 after a string change, then it is good for a couple months. I only play it a half hour or so a day. When friends are over I usually play my other guitar or an acoustic since they is quicker to tune up than the Floyd Rose. That's about the only time I play the Strat - if I'm sitting home alone I grab the Stagemaster so the tips on how to get all six strings in tune at the same time(what a concept!) will give me a bit more variety when it comes to jammin. Before I could get it close enough that it wasn't noticable unless I was playing with someone else.


Are you stretching the strings a bit prior to tuning (you should be)?. Without getting too technical, When you start the initial tuning you have 6 strings, each locking nut covers 2 strings each. Starting with the E/A strings (make sure all of your nut locks are either removed or loose) once you tune the first two strings to pitch, lock them down (be careful not to over tighten), you can even tune a bit flat (micro tuners will make up the diff), continue on with the remaining strings (locking after you reach desired pitch). Strum each string, I'm willing to bet she's still a bit "off" pitch wise, here's where your fine tuners come into play "dialing in" or bringing the instrument into your desired pitch. Also, if the fine tuners can't dial it in, you have to start over. IMO, the key are the fine tuners. The first time I tried it, I was perfect, got a bit cocky the 2nd time and hated FR's for a minute, but if you back those fine tuners all the way back (counter-clockwise) give them about 3 or 4 quarter turns, you should be ok when you get to "dialing in" part of the tuning. Hope this isn't too confusing......it's late and I'm a bit tired.

She should stay in tune for more than a few months. The ONLY time I have to "re-tune" is when I'm replacing strings.

Good luck!


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Post subject:
Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:12 pm
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I had some problems early with my FR, but now I find that it stays in tune better than any guitar I have ever owned. I have not read the article so sorry if I repeat it. For me I change one string at a time. I start at the 6th string and work my way down. I keep the guitar tuned to pitch the whole time. When you pull the nut lock, you need to tune those two strings to pitch again. Then when you put each string on, your stretch it. I do a full bend at every fret, pull the string up. and use the tremolo to pull u and down. I keep tuning it to pitch until all strings are on. Then I play it awhile with the locks loose. Once it starts staying in tune under normal playing pretty well I lock it. Then I fine tune. I also make sure that the fine tuner is set high in the middle of its travel, so there is plenty of room to tune a flat string before locking it. It's a bit more work than a fixed bridge, but it pays off in the long run.

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Post subject:
Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 2:43 pm
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When tuning, I find its best to start with the A string, as that and the D string, tend to have the most tension, start with A, then go down through D, G, B, High E, then Low E...start with the strings that pull the most tension first, then by the time you get your low E in tune, you should be relatively close, though I usually go through once more to make sure...With floating bridges, if you start with the Low E, by the time you get back to Low E, depending on how out of tune the A and D strings are, you often have to re-tune the low E over and over again...

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Post subject:
Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:22 pm
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All I do with mine is tune the strings one at a time from E to E. Then start over until they are all in tune. Then I lock down the locks one at a time and fine tune each string as I go. Usually takes me about 20 minutes to change all the strings and tune. 2 days later after the strings stretch, do it again. My ESP LTD stays in tune for weeks; however, I do not play it near as much as my Fender.

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Post subject:
Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:47 pm
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bowlfreshener wrote:
When tuning, I find its best to start with the A string, as that and the D string, tend to have the most tension, start with A, then go down through D, G, B, High E, then Low E...start with the strings that pull the most tension first, then by the time you get your low E in tune, you should be relatively close, though I usually go through once more to make sure...With floating bridges, if you start with the Low E, by the time you get back to Low E, depending on how out of tune the A and D strings are, you often have to re-tune the low E over and over again...


Thanx, I have always started with the low E and worked my way to the high E. Then start over - and over. Changing strings tonight so will start tuning with the A and see if it works better for me.

Thanx for all the tips everyone!


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Post subject:
Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:53 pm
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bowlfreshener wrote:
When tuning, I find its best to start with the A string, as that and the D string, tend to have the most tension, start with A, then go down through D, G, B, High E, then Low E...start with the strings that pull the most tension first, then by the time you get your low E in tune, you should be relatively close, though I usually go through once more to make sure...With floating bridges, if you start with the Low E, by the time you get back to Low E, depending on how out of tune the A and D strings are, you often have to re-tune the low E over and over again...



I used to do that as well, but I found that I have to eventually release tention to the string A and D strings as the High E gets in tune. For me I try to tune up to "in tune" and not tune down if I can help it. But if it works for you, that is all that counts. To each their own and there are more ways to skin a cat than one. RK

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Post subject: Re: donedeal
Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:56 pm
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Cazz wrote:
stagemasterplayer wrote:
Ended up working late(a good thing after all the cutbacks!) so would rather play than change strings so will put that off till tomorrow, but think the tips on the link will make it alot easier than usual. Still not looking forward to it. Seems like I have to retune it every day for the first week or 2 after a string change, then it is good for a couple months. I only play it a half hour or so a day. When friends are over I usually play my other guitar or an acoustic since they is quicker to tune up than the Floyd Rose. That's about the only time I play the Strat - if I'm sitting home alone I grab the Stagemaster so the tips on how to get all six strings in tune at the same time(what a concept!) will give me a bit more variety when it comes to jammin. Before I could get it close enough that it wasn't noticable unless I was playing with someone else.


Are you stretching the strings a bit prior to tuning (you should be)?. Without getting too technical, When you start the initial tuning you have 6 strings, each locking nut covers 2 strings each. Starting with the E/A strings (make sure all of your nut locks are either removed or loose) once you tune the first two strings to pitch, lock them down (be careful not to over tighten), you can even tune a bit flat (micro tuners will make up the diff), continue on with the remaining strings (locking after you reach desired pitch). Strum each string, I'm willing to bet she's still a bit "off" pitch wise, here's where your fine tuners come into play "dialing in" or bringing the instrument into your desired pitch. Also, if the fine tuners can't dial it in, you have to start over. IMO, the key are the fine tuners. The first time I tried it, I was perfect, got a bit cocky the 2nd time and hated FR's for a minute, but if you back those fine tuners all the way back (counter-clockwise) give them about 3 or 4 quarter turns, you should be ok when you get to "dialing in" part of the tuning. Hope this isn't too confusing......it's late and I'm a bit tired.

She should stay in tune for more than a few months. The ONLY time I have to "re-tune" is when I'm replacing strings.

Good luck!


After I get them "in the ballpark" I bend them. tug on them, crank on the whammy bar, anything I can think of to stretch them out so that it will stay in tune longer. After retuning once every day or 2 for about it week it is fine - till the next string change. So I only change them a few times a year.


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Post subject:
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 12:23 am
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Hi Stagemasterplayer, when you own a floyd rose guitar for the first time it takes time to actually learn how to set it up really well, it took me time too when I started years ago.. but believe me it is really easy to do, I can change strings in a flash on my floyd rose guitars specially if you use the same gauge on each change of strings you dont need to adjust anything other than tunning the guitar and locking the strings in place after a good stretch... :)


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