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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 2:47 pm
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Welcome to the club, friend


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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:24 pm
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jayro wrote:
Welcome to the club, friend

thnks 8)


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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:40 pm
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Welcome to your second home :wink: There are a lot of great people here and we are one big happy family!!

That is a great looking guitar!

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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:47 pm
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Rhumba wrote:
ArtemNY wrote:
Rhumba wrote:
Mmm, Ok, take the back plate off. The block that your strings pass through should br cenral, I suspect it may be over to one side, pressing against the side of the cut-out. If so, you will have to losen strings and then tighten the screws inside the cut-out [there may be three ] Until the block moves to the centre. Check that.


no good((
don't know...
everything is centered and tight
usually i'm good in mechanics, but here i just don't get how it works... it just screws to the hole and moving the arm don't change anything in placeing of guitar parts... so how it works?

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The block looks tight against the front edge may have to slacken so it comes back. But first on pic 2 the screws at the front edge of the bridge try loosening them slightly maybe just one turn, they may be to tight. Always do things a little at a time.


i think i got how it works
watched some vids on youtube...
the effect makes when you pull the arm, it pulls the springs where the buttom bar is connected... then i don't understand why the front bar and the "spring" bar are connected tight when they should be totally separated couse front bar should hold strings in its position when the "spring"... :? bar should be movable :?


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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:56 pm
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ArtemNY,
I think it would be worth your while to have a good guitar tech do a complete setup on your new guitar. And watch while it is being done. It seems as though something is not correct with your trem block and I do not know what it is. And something in that picture of the back does not look like it belongs either - that "Loop" (for wont of a better word" in the middlee...

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Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 6:59 am
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Rhumba, thank you for help!!! I got found the problem... )))
explain it in next post 8)


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Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 7:00 am
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Troublecall wrote:
ArtemNY,
I think it would be worth your while to have a good guitar tech do a complete setup on your new guitar. And watch while it is being done. It seems as though something is not correct with your trem block and I do not know what it is. And something in that picture of the back does not look like it belongs either - that "Loop" (for wont of a better word" in the middlee...


that's good advice, and probably i would give the same advice, but still, i used to do everything myself, only then you understand everything )) what actually i did... :wink:


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Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 7:06 am
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ok, what happened here...

the problem was in the front bridge...

it was screwed to hard so the bridge couldn't move...

i just took all parts off my guitar, understood how's everything working and only then built it back :wink:

so the problem is solved!!!

only one more thing... i watched some vids on youtube with the arm and the guitarists are putting a vary little pressure to press/unpress the arm, but i have to press really hard... to solve this problem i've tried to take off one/two springs, but it didn't help couse the strings pulled the bridge then... so what to do to make it less hard to press? or this is how it works and i have to use to it and be honest with me, should i attend the gym to be able to use the tram arm? :lol: :lol: :lol: :wink:


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Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:30 am
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Ok,glad you found the problem. The arm being a little stiff might actually be not such a bad thing, the guitar might hold itself in tune better.
If you have any more problems, don't hesitate to get back to us, there are a lot of guys here that can help you out.
Now go enjoy that guitar.


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Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:45 am
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Rhumba wrote:
Ok,glad you found the problem. The arm being a little stiff might actually be not such a bad thing, the guitar might hold itself in tune better.
If you have any more problems, don't hesitate to get back to us, there are a lot of guys here that can help you out.
Now go enjoy that guitar.


that's what i'm doing right now :wink:

thanks a LOT for help

hope some day i'll be more familliar with guitars and could help someone too :wink:


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Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 6:12 am
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Hello,

I've read over the posts in this thread and I'm a bit confused (not a new condition). You stated that you loosened bridge screws to fix your problem. I think that your problem, or one of your problems, may be that your string claw is tightened right up against the body of the guitar.

Before I go any further I should let you know that I'm new to all this myself – I've had my Strat for about a month now. I'm sure that wiser, more knowledgeable heads will jump in if I get something wrong.

First of all, Fender has a copy of its Guitar Manual on-line. On page 8 of the PDF file is a drawing of the bridge and how it should look when adjusted for standard tremolo usage. The text there describes using the claw screws to adjust the bridge.

http://www.fender.com/support/manuals/p ... es2003.pdf

Next, I'm including photos of your spring setup and mine so that you can compare the two. If you look at the section of your photo that I've marked as “A” you'll notice that the metal piece (claw) is right up against the body. If you look at my spring setup you'll notice that the claw is separated from the body by about 11/16 of an inch (17.5mm). At point “B” you'll notice that your sustain block is right up against the body cavity while mine is more-or-less in the center of the cavity.


Image


Image


Hope this helps – Doug

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Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 7:06 am
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Dugger wrote:
Hello,

I've read over the posts in this thread and I'm a bit confused (not a new condition). You stated that you loosened bridge screws to fix your problem. I think that your problem, or one of your problems, may be that your string claw is tightened right up against the body of the guitar.

Before I go any further I should let you know that I'm new to all this myself – I've had my Strat for about a month now. I'm sure that wiser, more knowledgeable heads will jump in if I get something wrong.

First of all, Fender has a copy of its Guitar Manual on-line. On page 8 of the PDF file is a drawing of the bridge and how it should look when adjusted for standard tremolo usage. The text there describes using the claw screws to adjust the bridge.

http://www.fender.com/support/manuals/p ... es2003.pdf

Next, I'm including photos of your spring setup and mine so that you can compare the two. If you look at the section of your photo that I've marked as “A” you'll notice that the metal piece (claw) is right up against the body. If you look at my spring setup you'll notice that the claw is separated from the body by about 11/16 of an inch (17.5mm). At point “B” you'll notice that your sustain block is right up against the body cavity while mine is more-or-less in the center of the cavity.


Image


Image


Hope this helps – Doug


Thanks A LOT for help! I really appreciate ANY help.
Yeah that's what i did right after I understood how all that works. I eather mentioned it before and you missed it, or i forgot to write it :wink:
I took all parts off my guitar, understood how it works, then built it all back. After which i unscrewed the front bridge & unscrewed the metal panel the same way as it shown on your pic. on part A of YOUR guitar. because it was VERY harD to pull springs, i decided to make it shorter by doing this. :wink:


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Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 7:56 am
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Oh my...

After doing all that pulling apart and putting back together that guitar's set-up is going to be in a very bad way. We could spend many, many posts here trying to describe how to do a set up. But...

It really would be a great idea at this point to take it to a decent tech at a guitar store and ask them to set it up properly for you, to get the bridge spring tension set nicely for you and the action (height of the strings above the fingerboard) working well and without buzzes. And the guitar playing in tune, of course.

A half-way nice tech will let you watch what he does and show you some stuff that will set you in good stead. Don't go on a Saturday, when the shop will be snowed under: try Monday afternoon!

There's only so much that can be done via an internet Forum.

Good luck with it, and welcome to the Forum.

Cheers - C


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Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 8:30 am
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Ceri wrote:
Oh my...

After doing all that pulling apart and putting back together that guitar's set-up is going to be in a very bad way. We could spend many, many posts here trying to describe how to do a set up. But...

It really would be a great idea at this point to take it to a decent tech at a guitar store and ask them to set it up properly for you, to get the bridge spring tension set nicely for you and the action (height of the strings above the fingerboard) working well and without buzzes. And the guitar playing in tune, of course.

A half-way nice tech will let you watch what he does and show you some stuff that will set you in good stead. Don't go on a Saturday, when the shop will be snowed under: try Monday afternoon!

There's only so much that can be done via an internet Forum.

Good luck with it, and welcome to the Forum.

Cheers - C


Thank you Thank you Thank you very much :wink:
I appreciate your tring to help!
But I've already tuned and fixed everything, i'm fastlearner, it's working perfectly, the only thing i'm still planning to change is an amp, it's a real s**t 8)

By the way, sorry for asking, i've noticed many say "Cheers - C", what does that meen? :oops: :D

(HEY, over the stage!!! stop loughing, i really don't know what is that :lol: )


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Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 8:35 am
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'Cheers' means 'thanks, nice one, see ya'

Y'know - cheers (Yay!) Celebrations!

(From the days when people would $@!&# their beer glasses and say 'cheers')

'Cheers - C' means it's from Ceri!

I should post that one on Wikipedia!

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