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Post subject: Martian,opinion please.
Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:04 am
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Dear Friends,I have followed the great advise of Martian since I first discovered this board. I have many Strats and I am in process of assembling another and I want to try the pickups that Martian uses. I have Duncan SSL 2,SSL 6 and SSL3 and plan to use them in that order neck to bridge. Is this how you have them arranged Martian? I also am going to use a S-1 switch only to turn on neck or bridge,sort of a toggle switch but in S-1 form to maintain traditional looks. What do you think of tone controls I am thinking of using both tones with 250k no load pots and use .22 on the neck and .47 on the mid/bridge.Your opinion is most welcome,and thanks for all the help you provide to myself and others.Craig


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Post subject: Re: Martian,opinion please.
Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 9:16 am
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wingman111 wrote:
Dear Friends,I have followed the great advise of Martian since I first discovered this board. I have many Strats and I am in process of assembling another and I want to try the pickups that Martian uses. I have Duncan SSL 2,SSL 6 and SSL3 and plan to use them in that order neck to bridge. Is this how you have them arranged Martian? I also am going to use a S-1 switch only to turn on neck or bridge,sort of a toggle switch but in S-1 form to maintain traditional looks. What do you think of tone controls I am thinking of using both tones with 250k no load pots and use .22 on the neck and .47 on the mid/bridge.Your opinion is most welcome,and thanks for all the help you provide to myself and others.Craig


Aw shucks, you make me blush! :oops: :oops: :oops: Thank you!!

Yes to your pickups' orientation, neck to bridge.

Trust me on this one, use the S-1 switch to engage the bridge pickup. This way, all you have to do is slap the regular pickup selector switch to the bridge and you're good to go when it comes to soloing. Further, by the S-1 being one less thing you need to turn off when it comes time for soloing, by adjusting the selector switch back after the solo, your right back to the prior blend.

I'm probably going to hear how 'theirs' didn't yet but those S-1 switches are most frail. So, if you intend on using it regularly, by using it for the bridge pickup, it will be used the least and hopefully, will last a while before it does eventually crap out.

Onto the pots: Based on a 1 volume, 2 tone configuration, what you intend on doing with the caps sounds like a good plan. My only 'knock' (if you want to call it that) is the use of no-load pots. With them, you go from '9' on every pot straight to like, "12", so to speak. Yet, if you don't mind the the jump and do like the added high end, by all means, go for it. FWIW, if you decide against them later on, it isn't anything that can't be easily tweaked.

Good luck and if you have any questions or concerns, just yell!

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Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 6:54 am
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Martian if I may ask what is your configuration as to pots,cap and blender.Thanks for all the great help.Craig


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Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 6:55 am
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Martian if I may ask what is your configuration as to pots,cap and blender.Thanks for all the great help.Craig


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Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 7:20 am
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wingman111 wrote:
Martian if I may ask what is your configuration as to pots,cap and blender.Thanks for all the great help.Craig


The blender pot is a reverse taper (made for left handed guitars/basses), 250K (Audio taper) CTS pot which I made a no-load and is wired with the bridge pickup. The advantage of this is, the blend pot doesn't work backwards like all the rest of them currently out there. Clever, eh?

I use a .022mf "BumbleBee" cap (real OEM from a real 1956 Gibson Les Paul) for my CTS 250K (Audio taper) master tone pot; the master volume is also a CTS 250K (Audio taper).

Note that in spite of the high DC resistance of the SSL-6 and SSL-3 pickups, both were nevertheless designed around 250K (Audio taper) pots.

As always, you're quite welcome!

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