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Post subject: Replacing scn pickups with texas specials
Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:23 pm
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Hi there,

I play an American Deluxe Strat with the S1 system and the SCN pickups.
Recently, I decided to replace the SCN with texas specials and I just realized that the wiring will be a huge issue.
What I would like to ask is:
will I need to replace any of the other electronics in order to install the texas specials to my American deluxe?
I don t mind if the s1 feature does not work after the modification, just want to know if there is any simple way to make the replacement.

I would appreciate any piece of advice

Thnx,
Thanos


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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:30 pm
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If you can get them in a loaded pick guard that would be the simplest way. Everything is already soldered up, except the input jack and trem claw ground, and you'll have the correct pots too.


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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:56 pm
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Thnx YZFJOE,

Unfortunately I had no idea that wiring would be a problem so I already bought the pickups . Therefore I am looking for ways, if any, to install them on the existing pickguard.


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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 7:24 am
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Welcome.

It can be done with your existing components where the S-1 switch will still function:

With the SCNs, you will see that all three have black and green wires coming from them. The green wire is a chassis ground for the pickup itself. Texas Specials don't have these. Remove all three SCN pickups' green wires from the back of the tone pot. From this point on, these green wires are now, out of the equation when it comes to installing the Texas Specials.

Pickup for pickup, meaning, neck TS for neck SCN, middle TS for middle SCN and bridge TS for bridge SCN, unsolder the respective SCN's black wire from the back of the S-1 pot and replace it with the respective TS's black wire. Lastly, unsolder each SCN's hot wire from the pickup selector switch and replacing it with the respective TS's hot wire.

Be advised:

1. With certain pickup selections, the guitar's circuit will emit 60 cycle hum, some possibly more than others whereas with other selections, the circuit will be humbucking. This is regardless of whether the S-1 switch is active or not.

2. Touching the TSs' polepieces in certain selections may cause an increase in hum.

3. If you prefer to have your guitar wired like a 'conventional' Strat with the TSs and the OEM electronics, there is more (re)wiring involved than described above. If this be your aim, in terms of, "the big picture", I also agree with YZF-JOE's recommendation of a different pickguard, fully loaded with a conventional pickup selector switch and volume pot rather than converting what you have now.

Good luck.

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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 9:13 am
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Thnx Martian, your post was a huge relief.

It has become clear to me that a conventional loaded pickguard would be the best solution. After reading your post though, I think it is a good oportunity for me to gain some experience in electronics modifications and see how I get along. I guess the worst that could happen is that I might have to find me a conventional pickguard sooner than I intended to,,

Thnx again so much!
All best wishes,
Thanos


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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 9:25 am
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Catthan wrote:
Thnx Martian, your post was a huge relief.

It has become clear to me that a conventional loaded pickguard would be the best solution. After reading your post though, I think it is a good oportunity for me to gain some experience in electronics modifications and see how I get along. I guess the worst that could happen is that I might have to find me a conventional pickguard sooner than I intended to,,

Thnx again so much!
All best wishes,
Thanos


You're quite welcome.

Practice your soldering on some scrap electronic components first and remember, slow and steady wins the race!

Good luck and if you get run into a problem, just yell!!

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Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 2:03 pm
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From where you are, the conversion to a conventional setup is less than $15.

CRL 5-way switch: $10
CTS 250K A Pot: <$5

The S-1 comes with a decent 250K A tone pot and a 250K A (No Load) pot.

Just replace the S-1 5-way switch with a regular switch, and solder in a new Volume pot.

Lots of schematics on the Fender Support page.


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Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 2:14 pm
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Hey there guys,
thank you all for your support.

I would like to ask, apart from ebay, where could I find loaded pickguards?
Do you have any suggestion for the UK particularly?
(if this does not violate any forum regulations regarding advertisment etc)

Regards,
Thanos


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Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 8:49 am
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Hi again,

I need a little help please.

So, I just received my prewired pickguard and as I was checking it,

1) I noticed that the guy put the switch with the spring facing towards the edge of the pickguard, rather than facing towards the pots.
I thing this is not the way to put the switch so, will this be a problem?
The pots are wired according to the diagrams and as if the switch was placed normally.

Also,
2) he soldered 2 black wires on the second pot (the first tone pot) which seem they should be connected somewhere on the body.
I assume one of them should go to ground or something but I was checking the diagrams and I have not seen any black cables leaving from the second pot.
I will call the retailer for sure but I wanted to check with you guys as well.

Thanx a lot,
Thanos


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Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 9:15 am
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Catthan wrote:
1) I noticed that the guy put the switch with the spring facing towards the edge of the pickguard, rather than facing towards the pots.
I thing this is not the way to put the switch so, will this be a problem?
The pots are wired according to the diagrams and as if the switch was placed normally.


This is not a problem. It doesn't matter which way the swtich is facing.

Catthan wrote:
2) he soldered 2 black wires on the second pot (the first tone pot) which seem they should be connected somewhere on the body.
I assume one of them should go to ground or something but I was checking the diagrams and I have not seen any black cables leaving from the second pot.


This is correct. One of the black wires go to the output jack, and the other is for the bridge/claw ground and/or the body cavity ground, if the body has sheilding paint or copper foil sheild. The American Dlx has shielding paint (it's black). You should see a screw holding a black wire onto the body of the guitar in the control cavity.

Sometimes the bridge/claw ground (and body cavity ground) is already directly attached to the output jack ground. If this is the case, then you can just cut off the extra ground wire.

But it sounds like everything is okay.

-----------------------------------
tip: After you wire everything up, and before you screw on the pickguard, it's a good idea to check the wiring to make sure the wires are soldered well, and the pickup selector has been wired right.

To do this, set the pickguard in the body, then plug the guitar into the amp, and turn the amp on. Set the pickup selector on the bridge pup, then use a screw driver and tap the magnet of the pickup. If the pickup is switched on, you will hear a thump over the amp. Do this for all three pickups on all 5 switch positions. You want to make sure you hear the thump on the corresponding pickup that you expect to be switched on.

If there's a problem, you will hear it right away, and not have to go through the hassle of removing strings and screws to fix the problem.

Hope this helps.


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Post subject:
Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 9:58 am
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Thanx pcheng, this does help a lot.

So, for confirmation:


> One black cable connects the second pot to the output jack,
and the other connects the second pot to ground,
unless the jack is already connected to body ground

I am not "slow" or anything, I am just checking because the diagram shows 2 black cables leaving the first (VOL) pot. One to output jack and one to ground.
What I understand is that it doesn't matter if it is the first or second pot,
am I right?


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Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 10:50 am
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If you can shoot me a pic of all the wires out of the pots would be helpful.

If there is one coming out of the volume pot then:

Vol Pot: White to + output Jack/Black to - output Jack

Tone Pot: 1) Black to Bridge Ground 2) Body Cavity Ground

Alt Tone Pot: If Bridge or Body Cavity Ground are directly wired to - output jack (then cut off the extra wire(s)).


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Post subject:
Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 11:33 am
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Quote:
[If you can shoot me a pic of all the wires out of the pots would be helpful.

If there is one coming out of the volume pot then:

Vol Pot: White to + output Jack/Black to - output Jack

Tone Pot: 1) Black to Bridge Ground 2) Body Cavity Ground

Alt Tone Pot: If Bridge or Body Cavity Ground are directly wired to - output jack (then cut off the extra wire(s)).]



Sorry for the inconvenience pcheng, I cannot upload a picture right now.
If it helps, there is a white cable leaving the volume pot, and two black cables leaving the second pot.


Thanks again for all your help


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Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 12:14 pm
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I managed to upload pics if you still want to check them out. I am posting the links.

http://img691.imageshack.us/i/dsc00259ol.jpg/


http://img709.imageshack.us/i/dsc00257a.jpg/

again, thanks


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Post subject:
Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 2:34 pm
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These picture helps a lot.

The main thing that they show is that; as is, it aint going to work as is.

The last lug on your Volume pot: the one without a wire connected, needs to be soldered to ground (some people just bend the lug back to the pot then blop a big blob of solder to it. I like to solder a wire from the lug to the back of the pot (in this case it would be easiest to solder wire from the lug to the blob of solder holding the black wire to the vol pot.)

To answer your question:
1) solder the open volume pot lug to ground.
2) solder the white wire from the volume pot to the hot lug on the output jack.
3) solder one of the black wires to the output of the volume jack.
4) connect the second black wire to the bridge/trem claw ground and/or the body cavity ground (if there are no other free wires in your guitar, then cut it off).

That should do it.


Refer to:

http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf_temp1/stratocaster/0107400_02C/SD0107400_02CPg2.pdf

The only difference between your harness and this one is that the ground wires are coming out of your tone pot, not the vol pot (it won't matter cuz they are all inner connected with that black wire that goes across all the pots.)

When you wire up the pups, I try to wire it on the same pot (and same blob of solder) where the ground wire to the output jack is: less chance of a ground loop (but it probably doesn't really matter).


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