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Post subject: MIJ Squier ST-331 (E vs A s/n info)
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 1:21 am
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I need some advice on 1) Refretting 2) Bridge parts 3) “relic” finishing. And, it’s not so easy, because my baby is “special” and she seems to ride the short bus.

I have a 1985 MIJ Squier I purchased at the tail end of 1985 as my 2nd guitar, in more than one way. I had a beautiful 1st guitar, and this was my “jump in the back of a pickup truck to go play metal with the guys” guitar I got back in High School. She’s seen so much abuse, and always sounded amazing. She was (still is) one of those guitars that’s your “go to” because you just know she’s going to do exactly what you want, when you want it.

I’ve done some mods, I put a jack on the side so my hand wouldn’t unplug my cord when I was thrashing about on stage. I put black Schaller strap locks on her with inch and a half wood screws and huge oversized washers on the strap so I could do the “flip the guitar over your back and around your body” Yngwie Malmsteen thing back in the 80’s. I first put a Duncan pickup in, mounted at an angle like Eddie’s monster, and a wood block under it sized to bring it under the strings, but still solid (no spring) connection to the body. Then, next, I dropped an EMG 81 in it in 1986 to do some Metallica covers.

It was in 1986 I started to discover what a rare and weird guitar this was, when I saved up my High School graduation money and dishwashing money and bought her a Floyd Rose. Then I took her and bridge into a shop, only to be called the next day when the luthier called me to say I had bought a “Fender type” Floyd Rose, and my girl had Gibson string spacing, and even the neck scale was Gibson 24 ¾” not Fender length. Yes, my Fender is "special" and she rides the "short bus." I actually dodged a bullet that year, because I’ve come to hate Floyd Rose bridges. I seem to play aggressive, and resting my hand on the bridge is key to me feeling the right hand and getting good "tone" and mutes and texture in my style, and after ripping two fender bars off the handle, I just wen old school "Jake E Lee" I don't need that garbage to sound good, I can PLAY it, don't need toys...

On the pick guard, I marked of the 24th fret spot hard, because I played beyond 21 often even when they weren't there bending up, and that spot to drop a pinky on the 24th spot was critical at times to me before I learned to feel where that was in my 20's and nail it every time because I knew how this girl felt near the neck bolts and tagged it with my left finger pinky. I got sick of the numbered volume knob not showing where I was in the range of volume, so I carved it out with a car key first, then put a big red arrow there before I learned to just yank it home with my right finger pinky.

The guitar has been by my side as my father died, two wife’s came and went, through the lifetime of four dogs I had as puppies and watched grow old and die. Even when I had nicer guitars, she was always the first thing in I picked up to work through, play out, and deal with everything life could throw at me.

She’s got a ton of road wear (rode out the wars), and has battle scars. Hey, it was the 80’s, crazy things happened, and yes, those are teeth marks on parts of her body, now permanent scars. So, on the body, I usually covered any exposed wood as quickly as I noticed (often the next day, or three, long 80-90’s weekends), and often I just slapped on some fingernail polish from a girlfriend (or the girl I woke up with), sometimes red, usually clear when I could find it, so that explains the “red spots.” The body might need to have some rough edges smoothed and coated (nitro? What is the right finish over the battle scars?). But I don’t want to mess with that neck, because the back has worn down spots that I know, I feel, I can find in the dark, I know where places are by where the wear is, because I’ve done it, I play those spots to much maybe, but I know them.

Even the old 1980’s gold EMG 81’s rough black is worn shiny where my hand and pinky rested and to mute, or just place my picking hand in relation to the bridge based on where I felt it.

But, now that this guitar has been part of my life for 30 years, I have wore her completely out. Most of the frets are worn down flat, and she buzzes on the high E around the 11-14th fret, because they are worn so flat. All the hardware is a bit rust pitted. The wiring has been reworked to many times, and I’m back to using the jack on the pickguard.

I want to drop a new BareKnuckle Warpig in her back to the solid mount on wood not springs, and bypass the volume and tone knobs, and run it to the jack in the side with just an “on/off” toggle where the old pickguard jack is now. That I can do, on my own, no problem.

The problem is, I can’t get bridge replacement parts, because they are that special Gibson string spacing in a traditional Fender style bridge. Bridge parts for Fenders are too wide and don't fit, even a simple Fender bridge saddle for a single string doesn't fit right . Refretting her seems ridiculously expensive compared to a new neck, but it’s like 2x as expensive. But, I can’t put a new Fender neck on her (or even a vintage one) because she’s a short Gibson scale, not a standard Fender neck length.

Any ideas how I can get this girl working how I want her? All I can think of is paying the ridiculous refretting prices, and tearing the bridge down and using the old metal parts I have to get the parts cleaned and anodized to be like new.
Image
Image

My baby has seen more stages and garages than most Fenders, but only been on recorded a few times. I can only find two “scratch tracks” I goofed on with her as the guitar I used to write with, and record with about 5 years ago:
https://soundcloud.com/badlandz-1/death-and-pain
Starting at 25 seconds, you can hear my desperate vibrato to cover up for her bad intonation. She won't hold a note to save her life, but I try to cover for her best I can. All through the 25-50 second mark, you can tell she's a bit pitch flat, because the intonation just can't be right with those flat frets.
and
https://soundcloud.com/badlandz-1/classical-metal-20-c
and she held me well, but wasn't mic'ed well... or whatever, but, she sounds good to me.


Last edited by BadlandZ on Sat May 16, 2015 2:39 am, edited 13 times in total.

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Post subject: Re: Need Help Rebuilding Old MIJ Squire
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:32 am
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On the poll: do what ever you want to, it's your guitar.

Otherwise: I believe that's an ST-331 (is it an A-serial?), which was sort of a predecessor to MIJ Fender Contemporary Strats. A fun little detail: the original pickup was called "Dragstar" - cute or what?
(BTW: I'm sure the forum would enjoy more pics; details, gut shots etc.)

The bridge: I think I'll disagree slightly with your luthier on the "Gibson string spacing" issue; the guitar probably just has the "normal narrow Fender string spacing", which is about 52,4mm (which of course is close to the Tune-O-Matic Gibson spacing - so am I just showing off here..?). But try the "imperial" or "MIM" spaced replacement parts, if you can't just "refresh" the bridge. Dremeling, shining, maybe even re-electroplating go a long way.

On the refretting/buzzing issues: First of all, how is the guitar setup, especially relief?
But even if the relief is OK, and the guitar is set up perfectly, a total refret is not the only option. If the frets still have mass, just leveling, recrowning and shining may be enough. Or a partial fret job.
On the fret job prices: we just don't live in a world where Squiers would be refretted cheaper than Custom Shop Fenders, so eventually you just gotta pay if you wanna play.
(Of course you could try to level/crown/shine the frets yourself. If you can keep from ruining the fretboard, the worst case scenario is it still needs the refret. But: this at your own risk - jugde your skill level.)

On the finish: I'm guessing the original finish is poly(ester), so using nitro for touch ups is possible but IMHO a bit over the top. But then again, I'd let it be as it is; the natural relicing is priceless.


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Post subject: Re: Need Help Rebuilding Old MIJ Squire
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 4:09 am
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Way impressed, jmattis knows his $tuff..
Quote:
I believe that's an ST-331 (is it an A-serial?)
Yup, A0112XX, and googled the model number, you are DEAD ON, thanks! Do you happen to know how many were made?

jmattis wrote:
The bridge: I think I'll disagree slightly with your luthier on the "Gibson string spacing" issue; the guitar probably just has the "normal narrow Fender string spacing", which is about 52,4mm (which of course is close to the Tune-O-Matic Gibson spacing - so am I just showing off here..?). But try the "imperial" or "MIM" spaced replacement parts, if you can't just "refresh" the bridge. Dremeling, shining, maybe even re-electroplating go a long way.


Image

Image

Image

Angle quick shot, ruler is a full 1/4 inch of bridge on right, but I can show more if time given...

Bottom line is, I don't know. I am not disagreeing... I just don't know. And I've held up fender bridges that won't work, and parts that don't. I was told the Floyd Rose I bough back in 87 would not work. I have bought Fender bride pieces that were "standard" I thought, and none fit in any way, I'd love to know, because I'd love to restore her... So... say, I search "Fender tremolo narrow" I'm going to find parts that fit? I'd love to, because I want a black replacement bridge, with a gold saddle on the B string (don't ask, it's a weird family thing)....

Quote:
we just don't live in a world where Squiers would be refretted cheaper than Custom Shop Fenders
I know, I so know, you are so right. And I'm living in a world where I wish I could justify Fender Custom Shop prices for my sexy little best friend here... :-( But, I'm also wondering, keep the wood good, keep it working, forget the trivial, ... If she's my "go to" and I know where she flattens out and buzzes with flat frets, I still want to honer her memory and keep her going... ?

As far as setup, especially relief I know this girl. I can raise her high, and high E 13 is wore out, and buzzes on a unworn or way to high seated E 14... in the "best non buzz setup" I can do. In anywhere I can stand playing her, she's buzzing all over the high E from fret 11 to 13... I don’t know that most people would even notice, but to me, everything there is just almost an unusable note.

They are all, the frets, wore out in non-uniform ways. But I think the 1st string (high E) fret 14 might have even lifted out of the rosewood a tad that's screwing me up, but if I "mallet" it back in, hoping it might become a usable area again. So, even recrowning wouldn't be a good long term fix to make the old girl as “good as new.” But bottom line, she's wore out, literally, the frets are looking flattened. And E14 is making me angry.

You are right, I might be able to recrown down even flat frets, and if I can get E14 under control, that is higher than the rest in the neighborhood, and get her working well for 99.5% of the ears out there. Now that you mention it, I probably will. But I'll always know she's going to pitch a tiny bit sharp in that area of the fretboard, because she's worn out. But, OMG, no one ever will hear or see that, and that's what a good quick roll or vibrato is there to cover up for! LOL....

I am so thankful for this forum and you, because a good recrown in the flat spots might make the buzz go away, even if it intonation gets a bit off. and for this girl, I'll live with that another 10 years or more.

And still, think you (of all people, with what you know) should vote in the poll for fun! :-)


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Post subject: Re: Need Help Rebuilding Old MIJ Squire
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 7:17 am
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Nobody knows how many were made in the eighties, not even Squier/Fender Japan :lol:
But the rarity of the guitar isn't in the production number, it's in how many survived - the one humbucker model was a cheaper model (39800¥ against the three single coil model's 65000¥ or HSS 130000¥) so most have been lost in transit...

I won't tell you which bridge is a "direct replacement", that just never comes out right. But: which parts do you need? I mean like, it's (relatively) easy to dremel wider saddles to fit a narrower bridge (IMHO, black TUSQ's would bring her right into today).
And if you buy new parts, the only way to be sure is a) know the make & model of the bridge, plus b) measure what you got as accurately as possible. (PS: Borrow a camera, those pics are just too blurry to help in any way.)

One high fret is IMHO the easiest fret problem to fix. But still, check the whole fretboard (and recheck) - a 6" ruler (and maybe another cut to ~1.5" & ~2" & ~3" pieces which you can use on top of any three successive frets; if the ruler rocks you have uneven frets) and most importantly good eyes really come in handy. (Stating the obvious: you know that you should take the relief off first, so you measure a "straight" neck.)
And IMHO, the end result of level/recrown/shine should be as good as new frets, only a bit more vintageish, and a little closer to a refret :wink:
If you level all frets, the intonation should not be a problem - some sharpness on upper frets is just the nature of guitars (never in tune on every string & every fret). If you have biggish problems, check the nut groove heights - and maybe consider shimming the neck a bit (sometimes a shim does things it actually shouldn't...).

On the poll - isn't my vote obvious?


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Post subject: Re: Need Help Rebuilding Old MIJ Squire
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 7:35 am
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Quote:
not even Squier/Fender Japan knows ...
But the rarity of the guitar isn't in the production number, it's in how many survived - the one humbucker model was a cheaper model
So, my baby was the cheapest but rare $@!&# once, and earned her chops and is respected now… I can live with that.
Quote:
PS: Borrow a camera, those pics are just too blurry to help in any way.
Yea, got a problem with that, I know, working on it, rather put my money in the guitar than fix a messed up lens on my iPhone.
Quote:
One high fret is IMHO the easiest fret problem to fix. And IMHO, the end result of level/recrown/shine should be as good as new frets, only a bit more vintageish
Please tell me you are a thin 5’ 10” blonde woman living in AZ, because I think I might love you… LOL
Quote:
On the poll - isn't my vote obvious?
Yea, maybe, but let her limp on with what little I can spare on her wasn’t an option. LOL

All seriousness, I came to this forum afraid. Feeling like I was about to lose something very important to me. And just facing and knowing some reality about it, really helps. Thank you.


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Post subject: Re: Need Help Rebuilding Old MIJ Squire
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 10:33 am
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On that tall blonde female in AZ, dream on
:roll:

On the guitar itself: any price level Squier or Fender from the eighties was made by really qualified craftsmen with a helluvalong realhighlevel Japanese woodworking tradition to back them up.
The "cheap" I mentioned is just an explanation to the fact that not many of those remain; folks just didn't feel they should be preserved. Add to that the non-Fenderish short scale, only one humbucker pickup etc...
(But: there probably are some eighties MIJ Squiers/Fenders in Granma Mei's attic in Japan, but those just don't surface in the US or Europe).

On the thanx part, you're welcome.
Google instructions for that fret leveling - the guitarrepairbench, fretnotguitarrepair and tdpri links are great when combined, and they come up on the 1st result page. Plus, the forum will be here if needed.


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Post subject: Re: Need Help Rebuilding Old MIJ Squier
Posted: Sat May 16, 2015 12:52 am
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jmattis wrote:
On the guitar itself: any price level Squier or Fender from the eighties was made by really qualified craftsmen with a helluvalong realhighlevel Japanese woodworking tradition to back them up.
The "cheap" I mentioned is just an explanation to the fact that not many of those remain; folks just didn't feel they should be preserved. Add to that the non-Fenderish short scale, only one humbucker pickup etc...
Thank you, I agree, the quality for the price, and the durability of this beast have impressed me more than anything else I've owned over the last 30 years. :-)
jmattis wrote:
(BTW: I'm sure the forum would enjoy more pics; details, gut shots etc.)
jmattis wrote:
(PS: Borrow a camera, those pics are just too blurry to help in any way.)
I've done a bit of research, and taken some more photos. To start with, I think I want to say, it is probably the ST-331, and I've seen both S/Ns in A's and E's as I dug up information.

What I will say, that can't be shown in photos, is this guitar is heavy, it seems to weigh a lot (IMHO). It's a brick for a strat. When I pick up modern Squier guitars I wonder why they are so light, and Bullets feel like they are made out of balsa wood by comparison.

Now, some photos. I do want to stress, I'm not pulling up random MIJ photos, but only photo's of mine (A S/N) and an E's I saw online that were clearly single pickup, with the output jack on the pickguard, which seem to be ST-331 model guitars.

One dead giveaway is the headstock logo, when comparing two MIJ ST-331s from that era. Mine is an A, and it looks like this:
Image
I found an E photo, (last two digits of S/N removed in photo edit), and they look like this:
Image
Notice how the A doesn't have the S/N on the headstock.

Also notice, the position of "by Fender" is more to the left, and it's generally in a lower position on the A S/N guitar than the E S/N guitar.

And, also notice how there is an ® symbol by Squier on both, but only the E S/N guitar has the ® symbol by the Stratocaster name.

Side note: Fender registered the trademark for "Stratocaster" with the USPTO on April 28, 1967, so both models could legally use the ® symbol for that mark. Fender introduced the Squier in 1982, however legally, Fender should not have used the ® symbol for Squier until January 31, 1983 when it was registered, and should have used the ™ symbol instead. (I am do Intellectual Property Law in AZ now, I notice these details).

Another tip off would be the tuners. My A came with the "cheap" semi-enclosed tuners, the E S/N version came with Fender Japan stamped tuners (afaik, if the photo I found is original tuners). See the A:
Image
and the E:
Image
I don't actually own an E S/N (yet), but as far as I can tell from photos, the neck seems to be more pale, and not the yellowed vintage looking color.

I can't tell for sure, but the tremolo block may also be different. My A S/N guitar clearly has Made in Japan on the block:
Image
But I can't tell from the only photo I found if the A S/N does or not?
Image
First E S/N photo seems to show a bevel around the tremolo routing that isn't on my A series.

Next, notice the solder point for the ground wire is in the middle of the claw on the A S/N guitar, and the solder point for the ground wire is at the bottom (top of photo) on the E S/N guitar.

The rest of these photos are just my A S/N guitar, to show some details. First of all, the width at the nut:Image
Image
To me, it clearly looks like 1 and 9/16 inch (39.7mm). I tried measuring it a few ways, but it always seems just below the narrow standard 1 and 5/8". I have no explanation for this, other than maybe I don't know how to measure it correctly. I do remember in 1986 I tried several times to find a shop that could put a Floyd Rose on it, and no one seemed to have one (at least in stock).

It should be a Floyd Rose R1 nut. Yes, Floyd Rose has it's nut #1 spec as a width of 1.5625" (39.70mm). With string spacing at 0.2398" (6.10mm). And that exactly matches this Squier. So, I know it exists! But I have no idea where it came from, because I've not run across a Fender or Gibson that uses this nut.

Even I were to purchase a Fender licensed high quality Warmoth neck, I can order it in 24.75" length and bolt it on my old MIJ Squier, but they can't match the nut, because to them it's non-standard for any Gibson or Fender.

I don't mind the narrow string spacing even with my big fat fingers. It's actually caused me to write a couple songs that slam fast between E string to A string power cords in a quick way I can't seem to recreate on other guitars at the same speed.

ANYONE that can explain this nut, please post?!?

Yes, I have worn the frets that flat now, it's been a lot of years. I'll talk about the frets last, below.

It also seems to have a weird filed back mark on the nut that crosses the G and B strings. It came like that, although I did buy it used in 1986. It couldn't have been more than 6 months old, and almost no noticeable wear at that time. Other than some amateur attempt to scallop the frets (shown below).

But next, the bridge width and string spacing can be seen here:
Image
Image

The string spacing is, without a doubt, 2 and 1/16 inch. Which makes perfect sense, as Fender wanted to put in only one double coil pickup. I will admit, upon very close inspection, it does look like they jockeyed the position of the strings in the saddles a tiny bit to narrow them. I believe there is a tiny score mark to force the strings to sit a bit more narrow than they normally would.

However, taking very careful measurements, I also say this, the bridge mounting screws appear on mine to be 2 and 1/16 inch apart, similar to the MIM fender bridge.

And a close-up of the bridge shows a couple things. First, the saddles are not stamped with the Fender name, or any markings at all. Second, I remember having to use an old wood file to make the hole big enough for the EMG 81 I put in it. The hole was the right size, but the corners needed to be squared more so the pickups black plastic cover would fit through. See:
Image
I have broken the tremolo bar twice in 1986, the second time I didn't have it drilled and tapped to remove it, I just left the broken piece in there, and learned to grab the block from the back once in a while if I wanted to dive-bomb.
Image
In this one above, you can see some filing on the pick guard to spread out the angle also on the bottom right of the pickup. For a while, I'd filed that out, and screwed down the stock pickup to a block of wood, mounting it at an angle solid to the body, ala EVH's "Frankenstein" before putting the EMG 81 in. But I had to file a second time to fit the EMG 81 into the pickguard.

The neckplate has a clear S/N stamp. I always thought it looked generic, or someone mounted it upside down. But because it is countersunk, I'm sure this is the right side up. I have blurred the last two digits out of this photo:
Image

It came with a single volume knob. I cut a hole for the tone knob when I bought my EMG 81. At first I tried to stuff the tone knob in the pre-wired pickup inside the guitar, but I later thought I'd just put it as far away as I could. The volume knob is original. The tone control never had a knob, because the guitar didn't come with one, and the EMG came with the pot, but no knob, and I never adjusted tone, so it just sat there without a knob for the last 30 years.
Image

Now, I'll describe the finish. The finish on this guitar was remarkable. It wasn't "pretty" but it was like they finished the guitar in a 1/8 inch coat of bakelite (maybe that reference shows my age, but it is close to true). I'm not joking. You could scuff and scratch the finish, and the scratches would show, but it took a LOT to chip this finish. I know some of the chips in mine came from it falling off the back of a pickup truck onto blacktop. It was TOUGH.

The thickness of the finish seemed varied. On the top, it was probably 1/16 inch coat of all black. But on the edges, it was close to 1/8 inch thick, and gobs and gobs of nail polish back in the 80's didn't fill the holes, it just covered the wood. I could see when an actual chip spanned the sides to the top. Have a look:
Image

The red is mostly finger nail polish. The green color isn't the finish, it's a coat of clear fingernail polish colored in with a Sharpie marker in the 80's so it looked black, and then worn off. So, don't consider that green tint in that chip to be representative of the finish color, or thickness. That chip has a good heavy coat of clear fingernail polish, and then some black marker over the top that has warn off.

Image

With tons of pounding, scratches, and abuse, the finish never chipped on the horn. The only places the finish chipped is when the guitar landed hard from several feet onto a blacktop road, concrete driveway, or tile floor.

Image

So, on a final note... I'd like to mention "relic" thoughts, how to deal with them, and what to do next. I am ok with the body wood, and just giving it some clear coat in spots to keep exposed wood from being subjected to the air. But the neck is worn through the finish in a few places.

After all this time, I've worn down the neck finish to bare wood. It's worn through between the 1st and 3rd fret on the top in a wide pattern, between the 5th and 11th fret in a narrow strip on top. And also between the 5th and 7th fret and between the 10th and 11th fret on the bottom. See:

Image
Image
Image

I don't mind how it feels, I am extremely use to how it feels after all this time. But should I be worried about the exposed wood?

And, as for refreting or recrowning, I don't think I can recrown too much, because the frets are worn very very flat after all this time:
Image

That last issue, that's the big expense. I can notice a problem with intonation now because they are that flat. I priced out a refret job several times, and a new Warmth neck would be cheaper.... But it wouldn't be the same.

If I were to make a "wild guess" I would think the A S/N models came first, and built a bit more lower cost, but over all stronger and more road hard with early MIJ workmanship, and the E S/N came later and had some "upgrades" to help sell, like the tuners. But what I know about the unseen strength of the A S/N models, the finish and tremolo block, (and how I suspect the thicker pick guard, and "back to basics" theme), I'd rather own an A than an E. But, if I see either of the ST-331 models up on auction, I'll probably bid. But I think I'd rather have an A than an E... ? Just my thoughts, owning an A, and only seeing and handling some E's, I'm bias.


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Post subject: Re: MIJ Squier ST-331 (E vs A s/n info)
Posted: Sun May 17, 2015 2:55 am
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Thanks for the pics, you made my weekend. The guitar is a prime example of what natural relicing looks like. And really, it's a survivor.

Some thoughts and comments, still very much IMHO and partly repeating the previous:

First thing to decide is the renovation/preservation dilemma.
(A) Keep as is, preserving the originality vs. (B) repair till fully functional and playable vs. (C) modernize the guitar. Won't be easy, but you're in no hurry to decide so take your time to think about this.
(I'd go with the B-key but modulate to A as much as possible - storing all original parts if replaced, trying to make only reversible repairs etc. - but that's just me...)

The E series came first, but overlapped the A series (E 1984-1987, A 1985-1986). I won't make an estimate of which is "better", since it could very well be tha E's and A's were made by same workers in the same factory on the same week...

I'll take the "most logical" approach to the string spread on the nut: my guess is, the guy who scalloped the neck also put in a new nut, and he probably wasn't a very experienced luthier - thus the file mark on G/B area. BTW, there seems to be room on both ends of the nut to fit in a 1 5/8" spaced nut - IMHO a black TUSQ, of course.

And the same approach to the different placing of ground wire solder spots in the E/A claw; could be just different factory workers' handwriting.

I wouldn't worry about exposed wood - even brand new guitars get drier/moister with different humidity levels. On the neck you got a natural "Roadworn" style finish - and your hand probably has left a "flash coat" of grease (etc.) to protect the wood. On the body, just leave the dents as they are.

The bridge: you could choose just to clean the saddles and screws. Soak in some oil like WD-40 or 3-in-1, rub clean - you probably need a brass brush, fine grit wet/dry paper, felt, cotton, tooth brush, Dremel polish felt disc and so on. Car wax helps keeping them clean afterwards.
But don't overdo it; if you choose this path, let the age show where it doesn't affect function.
Or get the black TUSQ's I mentioned before. (If you choose that path, why not replace the pickguard screws too, and paint the heads black in the spirit of the all-black guitar.)

The tone without a knob... If you fix it, get an old matching knob somewhere. Or leave as is; it's the beauty spot on a renaissance lady. Just check the wiring under the pickguard so it works.
(And you could even bypass the tone totally, if you don't need it. Re: the Richie Kotzen Tele.)

The frets: you're right, not much mass for recrowning. Play as long as you can stand the misintonation (hey, a new word..?) and save for the fret job. A dollar a day in a coin jar, maybe?
And to that Warmoth neck option - somehow this guitar would loose too much with it. Rather put this in a display closet and get a good Classic Vibe or MIM for playing :wink:

Edit: Forgot the trem arm. If you can't get the broken bit off (on some, I've drilled almost the whole bit and cleaned the strips from the threads with some dentist's scraping tools), you just gotta replace the whole trem block. That is, if you don't want to replace the whole trem.


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Post subject: Re: MIJ Squier ST-331 (E vs A s/n info)
Posted: Thu Mar 10, 2016 5:01 pm
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Wow, so cool to come across this and get all this info about this guitar. I was looking on a whim to see if I could find out what I had (didn't think to look for serial number, so I spent over an hour browsing). This is just great!

I've had one of these guitars for over 20 years, my first electric purchased used in a little music store in college back in early 90's for about $120 with small peavey. I always thought it was a Frankenstein partscaster thing (but now I know the truth!). It was some weird lime green spray-painted finish. I stripped it down over my winter break but ran out of time to finish it. While I was back at school my dad finished it for me - it looks 1000x better than what it was. As well, my folks went to the San Diego GC (two hours away) and got me an MT-2 and SD Screamin' Demon. My dad wired the SD in after finishing the body. All of this was a total surprise for me when I got back home from that semester, really special. Man I had a lot of fun with this thing after that. My dad passed just over a year ago, so now this instrument carries a fair amount of sentimental value.

The more important reason I'm posting, you will notice that someone threw a FR bridge into this. It doesn't seem to be attached properly (however, I don't know what proper would be) although it is firmly seated. No headstock lock either. It didn't come with a bar and I never tried to use it aside from the fine-tuners, which are convenient. It stays in tune just fine as it is, so I didn't screw with it. It seems to be compatible, but I could be missing some problem since I'm more of an acoustic player and nothing of a luthier. Also I never had this guitar set up, which would have possibly identified issues with the bridge.

The one thing I really don't like about this guitar is the jack right on the front. Design fail. Otherwise it's been a great axe. Anyways, I hope you were able to get where you wanted with your strat and thanks for all the great info here! I have a new appreciation for this old guitar now.

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Post subject: Re: MIJ Squier ST-331 (E vs A s/n info)
Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2016 2:40 pm
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It's a nice guitar as such, and the love your dad worked in it makes it really special.

On the guitar in general, I'm sure you agree that it's time to take it to a pro for a setup. He/she/it can also evaluate that bridge; on that pic it seems to be on crooked...
A standard setup will set you back some 60-90€/65-100$, not including possible extra work for the bridge.

The locking nut (or a roller nut) is of course the best combination with a FR, but IMveryHO, this guitar would be better off with the black TUSQ nut I mentioned above. And of course: if you don't use the trem and the guitar stays in tune, even that might be overkill.

On the jack: have you tried if you'd like the right angled plugs, like this Neutrik NP2?


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Post subject: Re: MIJ Squier ST-331 (E vs A s/n info)
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 1:17 pm
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Within a couple of hours of making that post it crossed my mind that I could have been using a right-angled jack all these years.

It does stay in tune pretty good despite the janky bridge. In fact, the worst part about this guitar for me is that single bridge pickup - just seems to really limit it's potential.

Would this be a good candidate to do more updating/upgrading or should I instead lean toward keeping it as stock as possible as some collector potential, despite what's been done already? I've got better guitars to play these days, with this one sticking around due to sentimental value, but if there's no value in keeping my hands off it, I think I'd like to do some more work to it.


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Post subject: Re: MIJ Squier ST-331 (E vs A s/n info)
Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 11:01 am
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Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2007 1:53 am
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Hi, JRigs - I saw your post a few days ago, but had to think a bit about what to answer...

JRigs wrote:
Would this be a good candidate to do more updating/upgrading or should I instead lean toward keeping it as stock as possible as some collector potential, despite what's been done already? I've got better guitars to play these days, with this one sticking around due to sentimental value, but if there's no value in keeping my hands off it, I think I'd like to do some more work to it.

First, I gotta quote myself from above: "On the poll: do what ever you want to, it's your guitar."

Then, all below very much IMHO:

Keep the guitar as it is now. Do only what is needed to make it playable to its max potential - like getting that bridge straight, making sure the nut/saddles/bridge plate holes/frets are perfect, cleaning the tuners, doing a full setup etc...
BTW, the 'sentimental value' will only increase as you grow older, believe me :wink:

These Squiers will never get a collector's item status in the sense that one could get a lot of money when selling them. But they are still nice guitars, and modding just takes away the character they have now.
And if you just want to work on guitars, there are plenty of better mod base Squiers (routings ready, parts available etc.) offered on ebay &such for real little money.

If you choose to start modding, adding another pickup will probably require routing the body; AFAIK there's only a cavity for the one pup. So, be confident of your skill level before you start, practice on scrap wood and a router till you're sure. Same goes for soldering, finish jobs and so on.


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Post subject: Re: MIJ Squier ST-331 (E vs A s/n info)
Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2016 5:01 pm
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Thanks, jmattis. You are correct, it is a solid body behind the pickguard, any new installs would have to be routed. After some thought, you made some great points about modding this. I'll work on the setup and basics without chopping into it and keep as is, a memento. :)


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Post subject: Re: MIJ Squier ST-331 (E vs A s/n info)
Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2016 4:52 pm
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Man. I have an 85 model. St-331. Had it since 94. Mt first guitar my grandfather bought me. I could never part with it. It's been hacked on by me and my friends forever. I recently got it back from a buddy that I forgot he had it. I was heartbroken to see how bad of shape it was in. I didn't know what I had until I got older. Realizing these were a rare guitar. Lol. He had painted his name in fight nail polish on the fret board. Long story short. I'm now in my 30's and live rebuilding guitars. This is my next project. I've got it completely stripped. It need new saddles for sure. Not sure on tuners. I know the pick guard is trash after we attempted to add a humbucker in the neck position. Looked like crap. I hate to spend the money but to get this thing back in my rack would make my world. Good luck on the remodel of yours. Fret work isn't hard doing the little stuff. I personally won't attempt a refret but minor adjustments is easy with YouTube. If they would have only had YouTube back in the day.


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Post subject: Re: MIJ Squier ST-331 (E vs A s/n info)
Posted: Sun Dec 11, 2016 3:59 am
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Aspiring Musician
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2011 8:06 am
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Location: Tulsa
I have a red ST-331. A0 serial number. It was my first guitar and I got it for $125 in 1992. It's an excellent guitar and perfect to start out on. I didn't even realize it has a Gibson scale until a few years ago when I was doing some research on it. It has its own battle scars, one from a night where I had too many adult beverages and dropped it. I've only seen one other guitar like it, a black one in a pawn shop. It's a simple, nasty, raw punk rock guitar. It's not particularly versatile - you can't get that thick smooth neck pickup with the tone rolled off sound with it - but it does one thing and it does it well. It plays about as good as any guitar I've ever played. I got it when I was 18 and a senior in high school, now I'm 43, so I've had it for nearly 25 years now. Time flies.


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