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Post subject: Blonde Tele String Thru Body Conversion
Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 6:33 pm
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Hey everybody I have an Affinity series butterscotch blonde tele that I wanted to convert to a string thru the body tele. Has anyone ever done this before? Any tips, pics, advice greatly appreciated.

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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 9:19 pm
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Wow thats a different shade of butterscotch for a squire. Nice!!!
This mod is not to tough, I'm surprised more people don't do it. But for best results you need a full size drill press. The table top models don't have a deep enough throat. You can do it with a drill, but if you use one I hope it has some type of level bubbles built in. First you need to install a new bridge ( I used Wilkinson compensated 3-saddle ) Drill the string holes from the top using a 1/8" bit. (this is where you want to keep them really straight) Remove the bridge. Use a 9-step bit (looks like a cristmas tree) That starts with a 1/8". You will want to practice on a scrap piece of wood to get the right depth then mark the bit with a piece of tape you just want it big enough that the nose of the ferrules fit snug. then finish up with a 7/16" bit to get the proper depth. I used fender ferrules. blow out the holes and sand the edges with 1000-1500 grit paper. Tap the ferrule in with a mallet ( Not a Hammer ) The step bit will leave a taper so the strings should go thru easily. The ferrules should fit snug but a dab a wood glue will help if not. I didn't need any. You can use a little larger bit for the strings holes to match the bridge holes if needed but these sizes are what I used The step bit was part a a 3-bit set I bpught for ten bucks.
Good Luck And Remember the String holes control how well the ferrules will end up as far as even spaced and in line :D


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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 7:49 pm
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I goofed that a 5/16' bit not 7/16" Some aftermarket ferrules are ribbed and some are 3/8" so double check what you get before and final drilling


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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 7:57 pm
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I'm just gonna order the Fender ferrules and then I'm goinna line up the new holes with the holes already in the bridge and drill. I'll drill the bridge with a metal bit and just barely go into the body that way the holes will be lined up correctly. Then I will use a wood bit and drill thru the body. Then I will countersink the hole on the back just enough so that the ferrules will fit in place and I will heat them up so they will sorta melt the lacquer and not crack it when they are tapped in. I just have to get a chance to get into the wood lab at school so I can use their drill press.


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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 8:03 pm
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Are you planning on using the original bridge? And drilling it. I'm not sure how well the saddles would work for a string thru. top loaders may be slightly different.


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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 8:08 pm
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Yeah I was going to use the original 6 saddle bridge that came with the guitar. I thought the string would just go over the top of the saddle but I forgot about the downward pressure they will put on them. Maybe it will be ok.


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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 8:38 pm
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Check out a few websites that sell bridges. Some may have dimensions for the holes as far as offset from the string holes to the bridge mounting screw holes I think the last thing you would what to do is driill string holes that would not allow you to change bridges at a later date. I was lookin at a stewart-Macdonald catalog earlier that had some dimensions and when I got my wilkinson bridges off ebay ($25 each) they had dim's cuz a got 2 different string spacings one import and one american and both bridges are convertible, (top-load or string thru) and compensated. one other thing to think about is the longer string length will require more tension for the same pitch (why wimps play gibsons) and your intonation will need some adjusting too


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