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Which is best - 6 point or two point bridge
2 point tremolo 50%  50%  [ 6 ]
6 point tremolo 50%  50%  [ 6 ]
Total votes : 12
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Post subject: which bridge is best - 2 point or 6?
Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 10:20 am
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Looking at Squier Strats and the cheapest Fender strat. I see two different bridges, the 6 pt and the 2 pt. Which one is best and why? Which stays in tune best? Which works best? You get the idea. I want the best I can get on my limited budget. Looks like for around 2 - 400 bucks, I can have either, depending on what model. The only thing to me is it HAS to be a sunburst.

I have a strat copy that has the 6 screw version and it works well. I had a bridge at some point that had the two point, but it apparently didn't work out. It's been so long now that I can barely remember it. All that's left is the roller saddles on a regular strat-style bridge plate.

So now, which is bet and why - the 2 or 6 point system?

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Randy


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Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 3:19 pm
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imo, i prefer the 2 point pivot bridge. there's less friction involved. also i have recently read a setup article in which the four inner screws on the 6 screw bridge should be raised a bit, letting the 2 outer screws handle most of the tension. i have a 2005 Squier std. strat w/ the 2 pivot trem and it's a pretty nice unit. if you want more of the vintage style, the 6 screw trem is pretty standard, but i think the 2 pivot unit feels smoother ( and Fender's using 2 pivot trems on the new Am. std. )


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Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 6:09 am
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Thanks for the reply. I agree that if Fender is using the 2 point on the am strat, that it would seem to be there for a reason. I would be hesitant to raise those 4 small screws and let the two small outer screws hold the wgt. That would seem to be asking for a failure.

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Randy


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Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 10:53 am
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i would choose the six point bridge because it allows a better connection to the body which produces a better tone. Hendrix put this style whammy bar to good use, so why cant you? i think tone to me is most important.

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Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 11:01 am
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Another good point, in favor of the 6 pt this time. Makes sense. But that's not helping me decide....

Thanks for the thought.
Randy


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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 10:41 am
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BTW, try getting a locking tailpiece and a good nut, because either one won't stay in tune if your strings aren't locked in, or you don't have a locking nut or tuners.

It all comes down to you though: do you want a smoothe tremolo or do you want a better tone? your choice.




-The Screamin' J

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"Could you take the stain from this pair of pants, and put in on this pair of pants?"


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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 1:32 pm
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Thanks. I tried a pretty nice locking setup on my copy. It didn't work out very well. That was 25 yrs ago, right after the first Floyd Rose, I think. It was an "off brand". Had the little screws at the nut to lock them in and I think I broke more strings just putting them on and cutting them with the screws than it was worth at the time. No more than I whammy, I'd probably be alright with a regular setup in that regard. I'm not going to be dive bombing but occasionally. lol

Your point is that the 6 point will give better tone also, correct? Because of the screws going into the body?

I've really got to go play some of each and compare that as well as the rosewood/maple necks. I've been experimenting with my musicmaster rosewood and the strat copy maple with them unplugged to see if I can tell a difference. But that's still apples to oranges really.

And I may not be enough of a player to tell the difference. When I was playing years aog, none of that mattered as long as t sounded good with the gain cranked up. But now, I don't NEED the gain cranked so high and I like my music a little cleaner. I may never fully appreciate the differences in bridges or necks, no more than I figure I'll play. but I want as nice a gutar as possible with the best setup I can get.

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Randy


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Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:03 am
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I have seen several 93- 96 MIM squier series strats on ebay lately. Any good? I read the hardware is more of the squier part. The rest is MIM strat.

Randy


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Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:15 am
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66musicmaster wrote:
I have seen several 93- 96 MIM squier series strats on ebay lately. Any good? I read the hardware is more of the squier part. The rest is MIM strat.

Randy


I have a 96 MIM black logo, probably squire series but that logo was removed. It's a basswood body or poplar, black paint, maple neck, D shape. I replaced the crappy saddles with vintage ones and it feels and plays great. Stays in tune although I now have 5 springs. And seems Fender had some leftover US PUs to put in it. I'm very happy with it for less than $200. How much are those on eBay?


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Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:29 am
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One going off in a couple hours like the one in your avatar at $92 plus change at this moment. If it stay less tha $100, may be hard to resist, even though that isn't the color I want.

Randy


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Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:34 am
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66musicmaster wrote:
One going off in a couple hours like the one in your avatar at $92 plus change at this moment. If it stay less tha $100, may be hard to resist, even though that isn't the color I want.

Randy


I always find it hard to buy a guitar online, no matter how good the price is. Does it say Squire Series on the headstock or just the black Fender logo?


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Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:40 am
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It has the squier series still on it. Here's the listing

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... :IT&ih=021

I agree about buying online. BUT... I went to one local pawn yesterday and they had a Squier strat - not sure which series, well-used, asking $179.99. I find it hard to buy that too. I'd rather buy a new Sq. strat online than pay that. and still not the right color.

Randy


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