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Post subject: Re: Pentode/Triode Switch In A HRDIII Help
Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 6:14 am
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toss it up in espanol I have friends that can translate it for me


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Post subject: Re: Pentode/Triode Switch In A HRDIII Help
Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 6:18 am
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Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 4:31 am
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Location: Province de Québec, Canada
onestepaway06 wrote:
toss it up in espanol I have friends that can translate it for me



Why spanish ? I'm french Canadian and we don't speak Spanish in Canada


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Post subject: Re: Pentode/Triode Switch In A HRDIII Help
Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 6:20 am
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one of your tags came up in spanish so i assumed thats what you meant, i can get french translated aswell


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Post subject: Re: Pentode/Triode Switch In A HRDIII Help
Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 6:21 am
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one of the few advantages of living in upstate ny


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Post subject: Re: Pentode/Triode Switch In A HRDIII Help
Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 6:27 am
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Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 4:31 am
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Location: Province de Québec, Canada
onestepaway06 wrote:
one of your tags came up in spanish so i assumed thats what you meant, i can get french translated aswell


:lol:

Sometimes I use Google translate . I have a tag in german too .

I know enough english to see lots of error in french to english with Google when I use technical words for talking about amps . That is why I use my own knowledge .

Tag in Spanish or German , just for fun .......


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Post subject: Re: Pentode/Triode Switch In A HRDIII Help
Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 6:29 am
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hahahaha yea thatll definitely throw people off


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Post subject: Re: Pentode/Triode Switch In A HRDIII Help
Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 6:32 am
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mods already done for those who like these amps and cant find good mods

100uf Cap (Replace C31. Add C32) 1 or 2 220pf Cap (Vol treble bypass) 1
.022uf, Org Drp 400v Cap (C2, C6, C10 & C18) 4 22uf, 100V Cap (C8) 1
82pf, 1Kv Ceramic Disc (C3) 1 250pf Cap, 500V (C7) (Silver Mica) 1
.1uf, Org Drp 400v Cap (C5) 1 22uf, 500V Cap (C33, C35, & C36) 3
.0022uf, 400V (C23) 1 68K ohm, ½ W (R12) 1
50pf Cap (Drive treble bypass) 1 470 ohm, 2W or 5W (R61 & R62) 2
100K ohm, 1W (Carb Comp, R4, 11, 16, 22) 4 1M ohm Volume pot (R6) 1
470 ohm, 5W (R78 & R79, if needed) 2


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Post subject: Re: Pentode/Triode Switch In A HRDIII Help
Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 6:36 am
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1) Upgrade Speaker if desired. (This requires removing the amp chassis from the cabinet).
2) New Power Tubes (bias at 67mA).
3) Upgrade speaker cable. (Use 16, 14, or 12 gauge cable).
4) Hot Glue flex cables to circuit board before bending circuit board out to access solder side of PC board
5) Reflow all solder joints on both circuit boards.
6) Replace 47uf cap, C31 power supply filter cap with a 100uf, 500V. (You can also add a 2nd 100uf Cap in C32. Be sure to insert a jumper across R70).
7) Replace all C5 & C6 Tone caps with Sprague “Orange Drop” type, same values. C7 use Silver Mica cap:
a) C5 – Bass: .1uf, 400V
b) C6 – Mids: .022uf, 400V
c) C7 – Treb: 250pf, 400V
8) Replace all four - 100K plate resistors with Carbon Compound, 1W. (R4, R11, R16, R22).
9) Replace 130K Tone $@!&# resistor (R12) to 68K. (Makes tone controls more dynamic).
10) Replace 390pf C11 with a 50pf. (Allows more high’s thru the Drive/More Drive Channels).
11) Replace cap C23 (1.5nf) with.0022uf Orange Drop cap. (Improves Bass response in Drive/More Drive channels).
12) Replace C18 (.022uf) with .022uf – 400v Orange Drop cap. (Adds highs to More Drive Channel).
13) Replace C2 (.047uf) with .022uf -400v Orange Drop cap. (Adds just a little more highs to both Drive Channels).
14) Replace C3 (250pf) with 82pf -1Kv. (Adds highs to Drive Channel).
15) Replace cap C8 (1uf) with 22uf. (Overall tone of More Drive channel is less harsh).
16) Replace C9 (22uf) with 1uf - 100v. (Decreases slightly the amount of volume difference when switching between the Drive/More Drive Channels. Lessens the ”bite” of the More Drive channel).
17) Replace C10 (.047uf) with .022uf -400v Orange Drop cap. (Just sounds a little better in both Drive Channels).
18) Replace C33, C35, & C36, the three 22uf power supply filter caps with 40-47uf, 500V caps (Original caps are cheap, and I’ve seen them leak).
19) Clip R103 at either end, and lift it up, and leave it so that it doesn’t touch anything. (Reverb mod: Makes reverb much warmer and fuller sounding).
20) Check R78 & R79. 470 ohm 16V power supply resistors. (Replace if necessary). Re-mount the resistors up, off the PC board a little to allow for some air flow underneath.
21) Replace Volume pot (R6, 250K) with 1M ohm. Replace Master (R26, 100K) pot with the 250K pot removed from the Volume control. (Better volume adjustment for Clean & Drive channels).
22) Add Volume & Drive pot treble bypass Caps (Silver Mica). Volume pot=220pf. Drive pot=50pf.
23) Upgrade 6L6 bias 470 ohm resistors to 2W or 5W. (R61 & R62).
24) (Optional) May want to add 3/8 A pico fuses to 6L6 bias trace on tube PC board. Tube Pin#4. This will keep a runaway bias tube failure from frying the 470 ohm resistors on the tube PC board. So, you end up replacing the fuse, instead of a fried resistor, which also fry’s the PC board.
25) Add Snubber circuit to tube PC board. (http://www.guitarplayer.com/article/smo ... -ride/5505 )
a) (Qty=2 of each: [1.5K, 5W]; [8.2M, 1W]; [.01uf, 600V], Orange Drop caps).
26) Be sure to vacuum all the junk out of the bottom of the cassis after all of your mods & rework. You’ll need to get way back in there, under the tube socket PC board.
27) Reinstall and mount the PC boards back into position.
28) Check all of the Flex cable connections on the PC board. All of the flexing from removing and remounting the PC boards can stress the little solder pads on the PC boards. Gently wiggle each flex cable lead on the tube PC board to make sure the solder pad is not just hanging in mid air, broken loose from the PC board. Fix if needed.
29) Redress Power wires harness.
30) Hot Glue large capacitor(s) C31 (and C32, if added) to circuit board (and each other). Also, any additional components you want to stabilize.


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