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Post subject: Heat and other issues w/68 Reissue Deluxe
Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 3:29 pm
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Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2014 3:15 pm
Posts: 2
Hi there folks...here's my story,

When I received my amp, all it did was make a loud humming noise. Loud thud upon turning amp on/off. After pushing on tubes, the hum was gone and the amp seemed to work fine. The loud thud was still there upon turning on/off. After using the amp for an hour, the thing was VERY hot to the touch near back by power tubes and even on the faceplate near the power light. After cooling off the hum returned. I brought it back to the store and they...
Replaced power tubes
Re-tensioned power tube socket contacts
Installed cap on standby switch
replaced bias filter cap
resoldered joints on power supply

The amp now works ok, although on the "vintage" side of the amp, the volume pot has a hiss when moving it for more or less volume, and the amp is still running HOT, although not as hot as before.

Any thoughts would be extremely helpful.
Thanks


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Post subject: Re: Heat and other issues w/68 Reissue Deluxe
Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 4:16 pm
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Joined: Tue Jun 29, 2010 1:20 pm
Posts: 9640
Location: Indiana
Hi donnycee,

Your amp is the '68 Custom Deluxe Reverb, not a reissue, but very similar to the '65 Deluxe Reverb Reissue.

The amp is supposed to be hot, the tubes hot enough to burn your fingers, that is normal for any tube amp, and add a tube rectifier and that end of the amp will be even hotter, perfectly normal.

The pop when using thee standby switch is also apparently normal, many users reporting the pop, my '65 reissue does it too.

The "hiss" when moving the pot is likely a dirty pot which could be cleaned with some electronic spray cleaner. (not contact cleaner)

_________________
---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.


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Post subject: Re: Heat and other issues w/68 Reissue Deluxe
Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 6:57 pm
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Aspiring Musician
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Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2014 2:07 pm
Posts: 303
Is this a new 68 CDR?

I have had 2 faulty ones in a row.
The first sounded great on day one.
The next day I turned it on and the cabinet was lightly vibrating.
Turn standby on and heard a not too loud pop and lost 90% of my volume.

Second one came in Tuesday. Right off the bat scratchy pot on the custom channel.
The reverb would get a louder and louder hum as I increased the verb.
The verb problem is a bad tube. I've tried 3 different tubes now and no hum at any level.
Vintage channel volume knob smooth as butter and quite quiet even at 10 in terms of hiss or hum.
But today, the vintage volume pot is at least 3 times scratchier than the custom volume.
I've never experienced a volume pot failure that quickly at that level.
Usually pots get scratchy over time. Not this one, it failed over night.
What is going going on with the pots at the Mexican factory?
Do they leave them laying around while dust storms blow into the factory? :)

As Shim tells these things do have a rather loud "pop" when you turn them off.
A 65 DRRI at the local GC also has the same loud pop when turning it off.
Also as Shim stated these amps run hot. 2 power tubes plus a tube rectifier even played at low volume will heat up quite hot.

I called GC today and they are shipping a 3rd CDR to me.
If that one is not perfect, then I'm abandoning the CDR and may just look for a used
65 TRRI or wait for the 68 Custom Vibrolux. I'm even entertaining the idea of finding a good condition vintage Fender.
The Hot Rod DLX3 that I also just returned was flawless, and it loved all of the tubes in my collection.

This CDR doesn't like my Phillips 5751 tubes that worked just fine in the HR. They are a bit microphonic, but work great in my Egnater amp and in the HR. But they squeal in the custom channel in the CDR.
Seems the CDR is more sensitive to tubes.

I will say however that the tones the CDR puts out are a good bit superior to the
HR DLX3. The HR had great clean tones, but the CDR and DRRI have a sweeter superior overall tonal quality that's warmer and more harmonic. Plus the CDR is so responsive, it responds great to even a light touch.

If you're interested in changing your pre tubes I just a swap with some of my tubes and the tone is fantastic now.
Here is the line up:
V1 - Tung Sol AX7
V2 - Tung Sol AX7
V3 - Sovtek LPS 12ax7. This is verb send and uses a 12at7, but with the 12ax7 the reverb is improved and now blends better with the dry signal.
V4 - OEM
V5 - OEM
V6 - Phillips 5751 - VERY sweet slightly lower gain tube that is working superbly as a
phase inverter, even though V1 didn't like it due to microphonics. But tonally the 5751 sounded great in V1 and V2.
I'll get some new, preferably NOS Jan Phillips 5751's to try.

The tone with this set is super fantastic. Very harmonically rich, musical, great clarity and warmth. LOVE Tung Sol 12ax7's.
They also brought up the brightness in both channels with a more pronounced and richer chime quality.
The tonal difference with this setup really surprised me as I was expecting this much of a change.
Seems Fender amps respond to different tubes in a much more pronounced manner compared to the other tube amps I've had and have, at least in my experience that's what I hear.

I'm really hoping the 3rd CDR works as it should. I've very recently discovered the tonal goodness that is a Fender amp and can't seem to let go, I HAVE TO have one, a GOOD one.
So far it's been disappointing to get 2 new Fenders in a row with issues.


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Post subject: Re: Heat and other issues w/68 Reissue Deluxe
Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 8:19 pm
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Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2014 3:15 pm
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Yea, the amp was brand new. Not too impressed with the new fender quality. Had many fender amps in the past and none with this kind of problem. None of my other fender amps (twin, vibrolux, 2 bassmans, blues jr. hot rod deluxe) never seemed to run hot like this one, but if that's the way this model is, then I can live with that.

I might try the tube swapping, although I really like the way the amp sounds as is.

Thanks for the input so far!

Don


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Post subject: Re: Heat and other issues w/68 Reissue Deluxe
Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 4:05 pm
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Aspiring Musician
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Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 2:55 am
Posts: 335
Location: australia
Hi have Had a DRRI amp for Nine years nearly to the day,And they can get pretty Hot.when at gig,s Even at home in the summer...I just use a little fan keep them tubes cool..And The only problem over the years Where when i Ran Tung sol 6v6 Power tubes They lasted Two years.And as i take the amp to a Tek every 12 months or so..As we where Checking the bias One of the 6v6 Red plated and Pop go,s The Grid Resistor Nice one..Anyway He Replace those fellas with Some Better ones..And i have a few Nos Radiotron Awv 6v6gt Tubes That Give the amp a lift in the tone.Rec Tube is a 1962 Amprex GZ34 nice!. And rolled a few Pre amp tubes Mullard in v1. rca 12ax7 V2. Rca black plate 12at7 For v3. A Ge 12ax7 V4. An Eh 12ax7 v5. rca 12at7wa Black plate v6. Used The stock Eh Power tubes For The first Few Years..They Ran with no Prob,s just Changed The Out every two years or so.Not needed to Just to keep the amp at its Best..Kept the tubes for good Spares..played the amp For every week out Do,en something Gig,s Jam,s Market Day,s heaps of hours and I Say there one Top amp.Never let me Down.Just Give me the Tone i need.Well done fender..


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Post subject: Re: Heat and other issues w/68 Reissue Deluxe
Posted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 6:32 am
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Joined: Sat Jul 03, 2010 2:18 pm
Posts: 6544
" As we where Checking the bias One of the 6v6 Red plated and Pop go,s The Grid Resistor Nice one. "

IME, these new Tungsol 6V6GT's (made in Russia) seem to be a bit more sensitive to conditions that send them into "red plating." They are not as tough against these situations as other tubes, like US made NOS. Conservative idle bias levels and grid stoppers can help. But, the solution which seems to work best for many folks is a more conservative grid-to-ground (G2G) resistor value.

Most Fenders have 220k-ohm, 1/2-watt G2G resistors. Original 6V6GT data sheets recommend something in the neighborhood of 100-150k-ohms. Yes, changing this resistor affects the tone. So, I read that something like a 150-180k-ohm is the range to try. Seems to work well with these new TS 6V6GT's. I haven't tried this. I haven't used this tube, since having red plating issues of my own, several years ago.


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