It is currently Mon Mar 16, 2020 8:56 pm

All times are UTC - 7 hours



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 48 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next
Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next
Author Message
Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:27 am
Offline
Amateur
Amateur
User avatar

Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:46 am
Posts: 190
Location: Coupeville, WA
Hello 2020

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/rollo ... t=3&page=1

pics - more to come with data

no i haven't tried the UF's but i use and they are excellent

"1A schottky diode axial" bunch on a Google search i need to define parameters

possibly schottky + bypass .01 and a resistor tank - we'll see

on the SS22 i used high performance LT LDO's but since i am a tweak
i am having pard mill me a super reg board to replace the LDO's on the ss22s (good for the that corp outsmarts we are stuffing i it

two lm317's two lm 37's all SMD on a small board

FYI all tweakers
http://www.maximintegrated.com/en/app-n ... mvp/id/883

http://sound.westhost.com/articles/powe ... es2.htm#s5

just tweaking away -R

OK going down now for VK sound checks (it's 11:20am in our PEACEFUL beach side community

not in a few minutes because last night that amp was freaking loud and wide open tones wise...

but i wanna look over my blown TW rocket and start reassembling the London...

honey do's first

later -R
]
never again will i dive into ALL my amps at once

down to a damn boogie .50cal (6bq5) and it needs tone help -screwed if i get a call....gambling

_________________
"It's not bragging if it's fact" - HABU_71


Top
Profile
Fender Play Winter Sale 2020
Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:36 am
Offline
Rock Star
Rock Star
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jul 03, 2010 2:18 pm
Posts: 6544
"1A schottky diode axial" bunch on a Google search i need to define parameters

possibly schottky + bypass .01 and a resistor tank - we'll see "


I can tell no difference between Schottky and UF diodes in most amps (hi-fi or guitar). I think Schottky maybe a bit of overkill for your application. A lot more $$$$.


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 12:48 pm
Offline
Amateur
Amateur
User avatar

Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:46 am
Posts: 190
Location: Coupeville, WA
True

but i have an anything goes budget 8)

OK quickie post

first round of testing

"Limited Edition 2012 Telecaster Custom. Aged double-bound select Alder body, Bird’s Eye Maple neck, Rosewood fretboard, 60s Oval “C” neck shape, 9.5″ radius with 6105 frets, Abby hand wound Twisted Tele pickups, Bigsby vibrato" From the marketing Spew +690pf bypass on vol pot (factory but with silver mica) and a zero pot on the tone (bypassed at 10)

.047uf + 100K after it to ground bedroom mayhem and would be a good starting point for hime only or small club use...BUT have not scoped it to see the loading of the next stage and freq sweeps...so all i can say retaliative to the stock sound is wide open and not quacky 4 is crunchy 10 is killing but can be tolerated and the character of the amp is NOT maintained but it sounds good but for a lager club or loud one...naw (PA i Guernsey)

but take the 100Kto 470K and you have a DAMN GOOD starting point

it's LOUD, no tube rectification like before, and i can stand next to it,...and it burns....but is it right? not sure TBD

it burns

so i decide to bring out #14 (Burst Bro #14) bone stock...are you frigging kidding?

the amp was mauling

at 4.5 (2 x V30's) blown blue frame so...10's off line

kills man @ 10 wails and is stable

at 100K bedroom only 470K medium club BUT NOT if you want clean 10 with the LP...great stable 4.5 vol knob rolls over

get a twin +JBLs

stand far from it...or have beeswax for earplugs

now i am going down to try more for a half hour ...then back to it later this afternoon

and rememebr none of the ear tests are on the scope yet

so not sure on downstream stages and ..loading (v4b) and balancing of amplitude(gains through the stages)

but right now it is a good starting spot and at 2-4.5 (bedroom it isn't buzzy (60hz) so

more serious investigating then we'll see

if my beaver gets outta annual from Kenmore air i can get my bud (hates to drive 69 miles here when we live 8 miles apart)

get him, his resistors caps and incredible array of speakers....

"Ph.D" level amplifier tweaker dude has 10 Bj's and each one is different and he has some great blues combinations and country...but he had to really rework them and creations i wish he'd build for me...but he tweaks then tears them apart

because i am tied to the pad tomorrow and if i could get him tomorrow i can have him walk through the amp -he is via phone at the moment and i know his 'nads are swelling thinking of this bad boy...he was here 6 months ago when i slammed in my KT66's and the bass with just the 3 x 10's killed so he was impressed and now he is


zoning and i know it's eating at him :lol:

so i guess i'll go get him in the morning IF Beaver is finished :roll:

stay tuned i have more tweaks to try today

_________________
"It's not bragging if it's fact" - HABU_71


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 12:16 am
Offline
Professional Musician
Professional Musician

Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2009 6:53 pm
Posts: 2252
Location: Harvard IL
I've found that FREDs work great for the solid state rectfier. What do you guys think?? Art

_________________
None of Us are free, if One of Us is chained !


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 1:38 pm
Offline
Amateur
Amateur
User avatar

Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:46 am
Posts: 190
Location: Coupeville, WA
i REALLY AM afraid to say this....but it was late and the coyotes and gremlins were out playing


so for S&^%s and giggles i hung a bypassed oh God he's gonna say it :shock:


LM337 on the bias line "cuz" :mrgreen:

what ripple? split the diff set it for 60v with precision RN dales i have billions of

but i did it for giggles not going to fret about bias (ordered supertex lr8's to experiment with on my 'wreck wreck 18W one two nads amp (london has 4)

but i AM keeping the last configuration i tested but today i am going to try fat boost again with 4.7u+22K+1.5K V4b and possible others OR a change in gain....gonna ear fat with it a half hour or so

then bench it do the damn concrete i keep using up honey do points not doing (my beer quality suffers) frist damn thing she does back on island is look at my bench :roll:

when i get back to the bench i am going to funx test it sweep it and a few tests that will pop into mind..5881/RAL RCA6L6 and some GL KT-66 note it, take pics

but the amp is killing it....

but not tested regarding taking pedals or above 7 calirity/power out

will test and note

FREDs(?) i prefer the new HV DC/DC After hearing a friend's wreck express now check this out and you didn't think

My other island buddy is weird? -naw

how about
JR PCBA Trainwreck express, primo parts, slammed inside a fender cap cover and screw to the chassis, then he ran the tube wires via mesh steel sleeving, THEn used new POS DC/DC ceramic and induction filters...QUIET HV perfectly regulated and the bias to HV ratio is kept but not freaking needed....(LM317HV for constant current on the 34's)

like i said he tweaks

QUIET and deadly 2 x el34

EMI/RMI filter on the mains

Corcom (i have used them since the early 80's) + the crap i plug the power cord into (Fuman) then to wall

http://www.te.com/catalog/menu/en/27685 ... GVyLmh0bWw

I got a bunch of free med grades in the 80's and i just stuff em in

might be why i am having less issues of that kind than friend on island with wacky trainwreck (weighs NOTHING) cept his OT (the power tranny is a shielded torid not sure how/blah he did it all but it is quiet and sounds good -he happens by geography to be closer to the growler base and emissions than me i am about 15 miles he is about 4 and on another island

sickly, he tack weld heat sinks to the fender cap cover that houses the express board to bleed heat

i have to shoot a pic or two when i go get him

time to test more then outta here

TODAY, i will for the first ever and i owned it almost a year, bring out the killer ribbon mic and record this configuration with a few standard pick up types etc

i wanna sit on this slop fest a few days to really work it over

go from there

Beaver valves have grounded me..so i'm on my own with the VK until next week-then i can go get whiney and his "wonderful vintage speakrs and parts) and let him have at it :cry: :roll:

i can put it back to stock ...a good thing! :mrgreen:

Check this out just pitched a "thing" to ballmer, gates, allen, barton, diller and branson

just let it float...if they byte (more amp parts for me) :mrgreen:

_________________
"It's not bragging if it's fact" - HABU_71


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 7:08 am
Offline
Rock Star
Rock Star
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jul 03, 2010 2:18 pm
Posts: 6544
aclempoppi wrote:
I've found that FREDs work great for the solid state rectfier. What do you guys think?? Art



Hexfreds and IXYS Freds will work fine in most guitar and audio amps. Be bit of overkill, IMHO. I've been using UF5408 (NOS Fairchild, General Semiconductor, and Vishay) in TR's, Showman's, and Bassman's for many years, now. Very reliable and quiet. Cheap, too.


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 7:00 pm
Offline
Professional Musician
Professional Musician

Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2009 6:53 pm
Posts: 2252
Location: Harvard IL
Yeah guys, don't know much about diodes. That was a suggestion, I got from Mark Baier, at Victoria. When I started out rehabbing amps, he was my go-to guy. He was very generous with advice and his time!!! As a result, he was my source of components and trust for years. Still can't afford his amps !!!! Art

_________________
None of Us are free, if One of Us is chained !


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 11:30 am
Offline
Amateur
Amateur
User avatar

Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:46 am
Posts: 190
Location: Coupeville, WA
Hey it's always cool to know so much time is wasted doing "component engineering" in order to do anything (electrical mechanical) wtc

nice to know

where i used to work we had a tribal knowledge environment and that went to heck when egos got in the way took 30 years.

anyway

the mods i did SUCKETH...SUCKETH....QUACK QUACK the last kluge.... :mrgreen:

it was testing interruptus for a few days because i need a phone land line and to get it my whole world had to be disassembled and moved outta the way..i was left with shambles

fixing that now

but i did take good solid notes on the Fat boost and i want to try one more and i'll post

THEN

i am going back to square one and using the 716's rebuild post V1B (Vibro King) to the original design and do some serious testing since before i tore into it i took half arsed ones (amplitude @ freq..

THEN i am going to try (or may anyway) before i order caps) my redo of the low end knee of the filter (more amplitude at the bottom end and more of a sharp cutoff using the CR high pass calculator -in a few days

i am going to re assemble the 18 watt neutered TW Express (london) now i need a low power amp until i finish the others -NEVER again will i say- ah hell rollo take em all apart test and order parts put them back together, what is a week of down time?

month 2 now..... :? that what a week of downtime equates to

will post the three DFat numbers

but right off the bat if you want to cream yur amp (without fixing gain factors downstream ) the Tone master fat + the normal fat equate to a 4.9+ volt pk-pk amplitude increase at the input to the PI when the pre fat amplitude was 1volt pk-pk@1Khz zero offset

nice CLEAN boost...no truncation of the Sine at all when i slammed the amp(that is until the PI i have not tested with the power tubes in yet, and scoping the stages because it'll be squarewave hell with tube rectification and all sorts of fun stuff but....tame it :idea:

it's CLEAN boost no stomp box needed (so i will play with the tone master values a bit later to get xdB of clean boost by hitting the fat

then there is r68...
before the last mod i had a good sound going so i am going to revisit that before doing testing of the original circuit

hey local guy gets Creds
http://seattletimes.com/html/entertainm ... 01xml.html

love the names of his amps "meat crusher" cute :shock:

_________________
"It's not bragging if it's fact" - HABU_71


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 3:07 pm
Offline
Amateur
Amateur
User avatar

Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:46 am
Posts: 190
Location: Coupeville, WA
Oh yeah beemer i freaking use those on many audio thing's i do but out right now and i just have craploads of 4007's

i get the beav back tomorrow and my bud is swelling up with desire to have a go at the VK...so i'll grab him bring him here (if the old chck across the street will let me tie up at her place (i fix her computer so she should. When he has a go at it 20+ years heavy theory bought all the books and can breathe tone into an amp....BUT the VK is fine from crank and pedals..fer sure -stock (new tubes)

i am i the process of working with suppliers on some great things for modders and amp guys and i guarantee the copper on those babies will not be like stock fender...

Anyway, i have a couple good sounds for the VK but none i am keeping i just want to take V4a back with good parts and do an automated test and then same on the other things i know that one of those setting was FULL (enough to pop the 10") i mentioned.

i have a jazz amp in play and when i see the avent cats i'll hat them up about current "goodies' that apply to tube amps etc

the boost number tho should be looked at for cats that want to have a clean boost adding the tonemaster stack driver values and you have massive increases....but will have to tame

_________________
"It's not bragging if it's fact" - HABU_71


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 10:54 am
Offline
Amateur
Amateur
User avatar

Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:46 am
Posts: 190
Location: Coupeville, WA
Hello,

spate of good weather here n the pNW so i have been busy...fixed my prized TW rocket it's signing again (AC30 voiced) (not before i added a PI balance to it)....damn that amp is THEE single coil amp -man But i did have a little fun with about 100 12ax7's and related some GT, some new Mullards some NOS...the new mullards consistently (and i have one original mullard that was .4V down from reference)

i set 5.00RMS as my amplitude reference with mullads in my Rocket i swapped the PI tube to measure both amplitude and triode balance ....at the output of final coupling caps

all of the NOS/OS were 1.5 volts less or .7 less for the best rca short plate i had. I have tried at least 70 and chose the mullards noiseless and the gain was better but the 5751 mighty different same with AT7's etc

the best at7s were the CV 404/6201?? and tunsol had more gain less noise then ANY of my MANY os AT7s

GT tubes for AX7s and AT7s were all over the place some russian (better) and some chinese (always lower amplitude)

i have an old old RCA GZ34, pair of mesa's newer types all are within a few volts of each other at about 414 or so on my rocket/deluxe R

but i put in the chinese GZ34 i have that is new...best it can do is 370...if ya want less B+ there is an easy answer


VK
in the process i uncovered my notes made at the beginning, so the network after V4a according to my hurriedly done notes back then show the filter to be darn flat

so i went to the ampbooks calculator and did CC calculator and tapped first the .22+470K and noted all readings then did same for .0022+470K (tone master) and .0068 + 47ok t ground like the circuit

http://www.ampbooks.com/home/amplifier- ... capacitor/

and he really opens up the first filter and the 2nd pole slams below 84hz...now i mentioned i came up with a calc that gives more bottom freqs then the knee is slammed verses a tad softer with his present design and using only the calculator

but my readings are interesting and i'll parse them out today because a tad cryptic but i can see from the notes with a RUDIMENTARY measurement meaning i set an arbitrary amplitude and scoped both ends of the filter and see basically this 1khz (i didn't go low i will NOW) i didn't go below 1K -dooh :roll:

but from one K out to 10K it's basically FLAT the deviation .002mv across the freq range as far as losses go

the phase shift through the circuit at the lower end was about 6.2 degrees and at 10K 5.9

SO he opens up the filters then slams the bottom end (when my good stuff comes in i'll retest his values with a sweep generator function and get some pics and so forth to add

i want to try my Knee on it so i have to order parts today build it then back to it

Since i cleared the bench i put the VK on it and removed the network and built the same net he uses in the VK off of the reverb recovery

on the scope it is looking good and i am not slamming the next stage

now i test with the ear

I'm back - crap i just found a .22uf and i have .0068....testing time it's going to look ugly tho....the mass of parts to get :shock:

but i am LOCKED UP at home 30 days (don't own red porsche track cars that come out at night)...so do the cops

beings that i am in jail ....i have TIME to try stupid crap now

as i search the net for my STEALTH machine

the cops pissed me off.....

now i am going "black" GT-2/3 getting rid of the Red car....


Just spent 3 hours buffing my TW london clone chassis then waxed it looks good NOW i can put it back together with Fat boost added it has merc mag trannies, and a REAL TW perfboard material and terminals and 6PS caps + mica 1W Cf resistor 2 watt elsewhere for signal....can't wait to fish it it's been a hanger queen for two years (going the bassman route though with the cathode follower stack driver since one unused triode exists...

EXPRESS boARD Filters too but he used a 18W tranny either an 18W marshall or vox derivative...

going to fire up pro tools in a bit and record and post the rocket's noise-now i see why so many Country players are using Vox or matchless amps -CHIME -NOT shrill i sometimes front it with a recapped 6G15 (sozo's) and it a freaking sweet sound

build one..... :mrgreen:

_________________
"It's not bragging if it's fact" - HABU_71


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 3:13 pm
Offline
Rock Star
Rock Star
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jul 03, 2010 2:18 pm
Posts: 6544
Rollo,

Sorry to hear about home arrest thing. Friend bought a 991-GT3 six months ago. Already has two tickets. His is light blue-silver.

Shuguang GZ34 (5AR4) are notorious for lower B+. But, they can produce as much mA as the Mullard GZ34. Sovteks are just the opposite. With that scenario, I'd go for lower B+ and compensate the idle bias with more idle current. Just watch for flash-overs. Esp if the first stage of the filter section has too much capacitance.

I am not a big fan of bypass caps on the power supply caps or diodes. If you are getting a lot of noise and you think it's due to the PSU... maybe better to go after the offenders, rather than due additional "fixes." Use UF or Schottsky diodes and good quality filter caps. Using metal oxide or wire wound resistors in the power rail will also lower background noise. Good grounding schemes.

The GZ34/5AR4 makes a good amount of heat. So adequate chassis thickness and quality socket is needed to dissipate that heat. Inadequate design may lead to thermal noise.


" The best at7s were the [Mullard] CV 4024/6201?? "

These are good tubes. Prolly, the best available in quantity, at the moment. They are not the all-time best 12AT7 type tubes (IMHO). Valvo or Siemens E81CC (6201) have better overall tone. Sylvania mil spec TMBP 12AT7WA will outlast most tubes, under Fender reverb driver conditions. And remain quiet. Problem is, hard to find good quality NOS 12AT7WA and German made E81CC's.

Try the new Genalex GZ34/U77. It makes good B+ and current. Seems like better internal structure strength than it's Sovtek brother.

https://www.tubedepot.com/products/gena ... acuum-tube

Hey! You ever been to the Monterey Porsche Parade? Nice first views of the 919 prototype.

http://porscheparade.zenfolio.com/f205888665


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 3:53 pm
Offline
Rock Icon
Rock Icon
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 29, 2010 1:20 pm
Posts: 9640
Location: Indiana
Any UF or "fancy" diodes are overkill, and complete waste of money. You are working with 60 Hz, and it matters not how fast the diodes are, you won't get any less ripple, or any less noise, there is zero advantage, period.

_________________
---> "The amp should be SWITCHED OFF AND UNPLUGGED before you do this!" <---

Por favor, disculpe mi español, no se llega a la práctica con mucha frecuencia.


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 4:32 pm
Offline
Amateur
Amateur
User avatar

Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:46 am
Posts: 190
Location: Coupeville, WA
Hello,
Being locked up at home.....i decided to kluge the original circuit together and sweep it....

much to show, i need to edit a bunch of pics showing curves etc and i was able to kluge the parts close to original values (some of originals DOA) so i slammed it together close..

nice curves but i want to try the sharp kneed version i have on paper

but, cool pics to show many who do not have access to the gear to fart with it all and see a filter sweep(freq response)

swept 50hz to 12Khz a few times broke it down on the scope shot pics, then changed ot to 40-700hz did same

impressed at the flat response from about 400Hz on out where guitars roam...

i may trend for a few hours at 40-300hz and see what shows up....

but am impressed with the two pole filter

posting links when i get to the pics next few days

_________________
"It's not bragging if it's fact" - HABU_71


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 10:50 pm
Offline
Rock Star
Rock Star
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jul 03, 2010 2:18 pm
Posts: 6544
Rollo, what is the final setup of the tone stack, again? You using a 500-pico in the treble portion, correct?


Thanks!


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:05 am
Offline
Amateur
Amateur
User avatar

Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:46 am
Posts: 190
Location: Coupeville, WA
shimmilou wrote:
Any UF or "fancy" diodes are overkill, and complete waste of money. You are working with 60 Hz, and it matters not how fast the diodes are, you won't get any less ripple, or any less noise, there is zero advantage, period.


Link to VK oscilloscope sweep curves below this drivel (nope it has been proven by many top engineers that (switching noise 60Hz?(or crap riding it) (and reflected energy) or when quelling 450Khz DC/DC crap also (different application fer sure) i have to Carver PM250's so i used to go to carver to get the upgraded and carver is a very bad a$$ed tube guy his new stuff will floor you...literally

i have 80 year old electronics retirees all around me and everyone has his nose in my biz...awacs guys, boeing "dark" so it's a blast at times

I wish i could agree on this but years of experience in avionics, medical and good and crap audio gear....just depends

Background as to why i MAY bypass (Bob Pease and i did experiments decades ago on that stuff at National...but the caps were crappy not killer (on purpose)...interesting stuff (i was at IBM doing a 240' focal length 65Kw laser to pop microns of silicon...do not know why..and hung with their guys that were tube heads for a week

In one avionics design i did for the DARK was USAF wanted 7 custom built data converters wouldn't tell me the plane or equipment on board (DH8-c's) F-16 AWACS planes - how do i know...cuz i call homestead AFB called the avionics shop and got a dummy that spewed everything i needed to know (and being a former AF captain should have called his commander too...naw)...and there were some darn fast diodes in that thing to (quell spikes (400hz and the planes are NOISEY) and other anomalies) BTW to get signal testing Horizon airlines gave me a DH for a day so i strapped my tek scope (older analog) and some other gear to my honda and went off in the rain (blast....neat planes)

then i started using Transorbs wired freaky


the unit was tested by Eldec in lynnwood and unknowing to me they did DO-160B Class Z cert (space shuttle/space crap) i blew the specs using transorbs, not 1n40XX etc...all application dependent

Google earth Whidbey Island and coupeville go to the port townsend ferry i live east of there on the island side, now back out further....NOLF -if you go here
so if you backed out and see NOLF there is a dome there....sub simulator and a jammer tweaker, now up the island further you see NAS Ault (F18 growlers (Jammers) and p3 and new P8's) less than a LOS mile from me

i live in RF noise hell (the bypass caps if done properly (selected that is) can and most of the time improve ESR and recovery factor (less retention of X level at X time).

grab a seattle sectional from the net see seatac go north to whidbey island you see two MOA's Chinook A and Chinook B notice A has a 350' area at the beach to shoot simulated carrier landings...i live under it they set up using my house for the base to final turn electrical noise if the EWO is hitting the simulator.+ every damn old fart on the island is a Ham operator... :shock:

http://vfrmap.com/ for airpot type in sea....then go north and you can see all the miltary traffic around my ...amps

subjective and any tweaker audiophile will do it....

maybe for peace of mind who knows

VIBRO KING PICS

OK since i was sicker than crap pissed off and stuff i went down and swept the VK V4a network) i had to kluge to gte darn close values so the curves can bee seen and slop too (will be fixed when done)

I swept and tested 45hz to 12Khz on one you can see Zinky's circuit has a flat curve out of the low end roll off. you see an nice curve and flat response and since you can run the tubeamp calcs you can see why, opened up after the loop and then the .0068 an 470K stomp the lower end...there is where my cacls say (will try with in a week or so ..ordering parts today

My intent is to keep the same flatness over the bandpass but take the lower end flat to about 70hz then SHARPLY slam the door on 50-60hz -but that may sound like crap ...who knows soon we'll see

we the rain soaked S.A.D.afflicted island is wondrously bathed in a few weeks of killer weather so many things to do outside (landscaping) honeydo's and regeneration BEER :mrgreen:

but i will be back to the King this weekend

doing a rebuild of my truncated TW/rocket then i do my PTP DRRI...almost will be caught up and can start a band again....miss it terribly...

thanks Shimmy and more data soon (as i said i have tabulated data also i must format similar to the SS22 series i am doing so i can post findings and suggestions for both

i have my molested as hell 22 and my grodie roadie's ss22 (unmolested)

here are some of the pics and the curves are evident....good starting point

BTW....being a know it all expert in everything :lol: suggestion PLEASE trun off your generator's output when changing freqs...I was testing 100hz stand alone, then 1k then 10K EXCEPT 10K was 100K and i had left the generator output on and one of my NEW tungsol 6L6's said stuff to me i can't print :mrgreen:

BEEMER2002....know anyone wanting a "tweaked 93 Porsche RS America....not a car for the girlfriend (no whiner's seat installed) - i need stealth car

BTW i drove a GT-2 and took it back got out and said NO WAY ...sales chick asks why...."i'll die before i get home" - besides the GT3...has way less problems (my two 930's way back working at A&M i blew turbos every 500-1000 miles real piles of crap when they first came out (two '80's (gray market one of them) one was trouble free but for turbos and the other ..,.a hanger queen i dumped.

the old lady has a benz with a supercharger and that 100K mile thing has had ZERO problems i like supercharges better anyway

ok nuff diversionary talk out of here

more soon

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/rollo ... t=3&page=1[/color]

_________________
"It's not bragging if it's fact" - HABU_71


Top
Profile
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 48 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next
Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next

All times are UTC - 7 hours

Fender Play Winter Sale 2020

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to: