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Post subject: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Mon May 26, 2014 3:15 pm
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Hello from the PNW :mrgreen:

Hey since i have down time i am diming my amps i have freaking fender and train wreck chassis all over here in various states of ugly...

but my pristine VK is sitting there and since i can not move further on my other projects to dime...i am doing this as soon as i hit the enter button (and i get a kidney belt)...

i am using 716's and some ps-6's to make my mind know i have good parts and 1w resistors in 1/4 positions thermal noise popcorn blah blah spread the surface area)..+ a combination of sprauge and F&T power section and metal films on all 1Meg and 100K plates (2 watts ea) and i am adding some 1 ohms PLUS diodes wrapped around them (ref; supersonic 22)

so the line in is where i am headed...first i am going to add a 10K metal (Dale mil spec i have laying around) just for a bit of grid stop i live next to a navel submarine simulator for EW ops with F-18G's and P-8's and retired navy cats with linear's on their Ham gear. otherwise it's a strange call to use or not to

BUT

NOW the question on the output of V4a c5/6 and R15/21 WTH?

looks like a timing or phase shifting to ...cure ills? coming from the line..or is it to shape the signal to re-align phase relationships through the signal path

do i need it...i see the tim c stuff but this is a VK not a super reverb...so i want to leave it as designed mostly BUT looks like i could take the RC network out and sub in a cap and resistor

ALSO modders

notice the supersonic tone stack for the OD channel and for dealing with pop switching out the 47pf vol bypass (use a 10M too)

and notice the zinky custom vibroverb and it's 250K vol pot tapped at 50K also and the 330Pf and the other little guy hung on it, switching ground for the standby instead of the B+ rail...and other changes like 500pf feeding the PI

some weird little tweaks in there take a look around


thoughts? :?:

thanks - Rollo :shock:

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Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Mon May 26, 2014 3:41 pm
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" NOW the question on the output of V4a c5/6 and R15/21 WTH? "

This looks like an old-time coupling cap trick. Notice how C5 = 0.22mfd/250VDC and C6 = 0.01mfd/630VDC? The 250VDC rated cap is seeing 289VDC. But, a 0.22mfd/630VDC cap is big and more $$$. So, some ppl put a lower voltage rated cap in and have it tied to a lower mfd/higher VDC rated cap (or C6, in this case). Any DC getting passed the first coupling cap, C5, will be stopped by the second cap C6.

C5 acts as the low frequency crossover cap and C6 is the DC blocking cap. The 0.01mfd/630VDC cap is much smaller and cheaper.

I've seen these kinds of combination coupling caps in older hi-fi amps. Where 0.22mfd, and higher mfd, 600VDC rated caps were $$$ and not as abundant.


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Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 8:01 am
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Hello 2002, just saw a pristine 2 on the Microsoft campus complete restore gorgeous as a 2002 can be (3.0csi)....Daphine blue...is my wet dream they exist but i need to capture another jag 420 from BC first....i had one loved it..traded it for a les paul WTH? a very very curly quilted cherry burst. a lot of the graybeards are scoring the car of their youth's dreams and are restoring some really cool stuff or building some wicked stuff...i am looking to order a carbon cub..easy to get to seattle and vancouver/victoria...where the sweeties are (not here on the island....heck NOOOOOO)

anyway back to the king..have not been inside awhile so i looked it over really good....wish they point to point the classics (easier to personalize) after my NASA trained soldering job basically toasted my DRRI board...i'm ordering the boards and 16uf's etc) stuff to fix it today minus vibrato + ODS circuit and an HRM stack flipper...Marshall stack (jtm45 but up to 56K spanning) of course. i disabled the vibrato circuit completely (which a lot of folk don't do..i lost all power to the resistors and floated them vertical so i can eaisly put back should i need vibrato disconnected both pots and one resistor so no path to ground for any voltage it can now all go to the "mojo".

the VK is sweet inside all grounds look to be riding on romex or equiv maybe #12 or so white wire sweet i further bussed to a bolted down power tranny-i do that to all my amps and they did it at the factory (all my ground screws go to ground posts with nuts etc and soldered terminal connectors less noise. the king is wired sweetly and lots of shielded cable of the good kind and a troubling run reminiscent to the quality shield in a new epi or gretsch lower end. (gray stuff with a weak jacket)

mogami in place before i write again...

so today i should have the 716's in place of the Murta's and i'll scope the area under discussion and see if there s a phase relationship...BUT having seen some of the "questionable" amps innards -they need to stand down and have a good QC triage, loose bayonet connectors on B+ under vibration...WTH? but the VK other than immediately blowing a 6l6 (had that in my first drri also blown 6v6) is sweet....reminds me of the old days minus the 1000's of bayonet connectors

anyway so i'll scope it then note and do the tim c trick for that area but maybe try

Dc coupled, ac with a .01 or 047 022 try all with a taste of leakage added in...wonder why Bruce didn't slap a resistor in front of V4...

i'll post

when done with the supersonic22 and drri's i'll post the detailed stuff i have been noting now for 1.5 years good stuff for those without labs and time to putz (god being out of the IT grind is so so nice))...data center what's that :mrgreen:

It might save some folk some dough by having a guide that gives values and results etc but the loose connector thing needs to STOP...my power shouldn't be intermittant when cranking (ss22)...after clamping all of them problem went away...glad it wasn't at a session (11 rack can fix that) :?

yes trolls do live on Whidbey

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Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Wed May 28, 2014 1:24 am
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" So today i should have the 716's in place of the Murta's and i'll scope the area under discussion and see if there s a phase relationship...BUT having seen some of the "questionable" amps innards -they need to stand down and have a good QC triage, loose bayonet connectors on B+ under vibration...WTH? but the VK other than immediately blowing a 6l6 (had that in my first drri also blown 6v6) is sweet....reminds me of the old days minus the 1000's of bayonet connectors. "


Phase relationships may not be all that audible above 500Hz. Usually, it's a bass thing. Loss of bass or loss of focus on the lower frequencies.


When you say "bayonet fittings" I think of:

Image


I don't believe these are what you are talking about. You need to not only secure all fittings, but relief any strain or stress onto the connections. I notice that a lot of new made amps use simple plug-in terminal connections. Which really don't relieve side movement and stress. This movement can lead to loosening of the metal tangs in the connectors.

I've seen some very nice auto audio setups that use the plug, below, for connectors. They are secure and can be tied to a chassis mount for further protection from vibrations.



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Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Wed May 28, 2014 1:34 pm
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OH...flashback linebacker II...48 cannon connectors..PIA

yeah all my cars use weather proof cannons for certain functions...

naw you nailed it the terminal male female parts ..NEW my SS22 was loose and i could scope and tap the power in wire and jumping and crap occurred so i just tightened all down good...

the ss22 has it's pot board in austin being moded by my pard then i can put it back together

OK the 716's are in place and our two little caps are still in circuit so later today i will scope it and fart around

maybe use a .047 there in place of the network...

gotta do some scoping then ear testing..should know soon

BUT i am thinking of doing a fibre board ODS and piggy back over the vibrato section to leave that intact but electrically disconnected and just put a "daughter-board ODS there) stash and save the pots (ganged) and put some solid brass bourns or some nice pots for an ODS function

and i may try bypassing the volume pots with 47 120pf see what gives with both flavor pick ups

Porsche noise i took the RS and fired it up for the first time since summer...kicks but BUT

blowing raw Mobil one out the back and baby i killed all the misquotes on this island

BUMMER may have hole or burnt a piston because of the skank distributor belt Porsche used for dual plugging the 964's

man now i gotta drop it and get into money i could be using to build a dumble clone....

may let it rot in it's own oil

lots to try tomorrow when the wife is gone
Later -R

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Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 3:08 pm
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:mrgreen:
wow did a bunch and next i look at the weirdness that Tim C mods suggests is changed...not yet....when all done i'll record via a killer ribbon mic (AEA R840) and put up clips and pics maybe a vid of the guts -i'll list all the changes in a bullet format when i finish messing with it (have to put together three amps asap man...

OK
so SBE 716s everywhere all 600 volts and MY are the sized different than same in the "brown turd" types OEM, mylars and i used a 600V turd for the C2 spot until my parts come in

drilled a hole - two OMG in a VK???? yep cuz it's mine :mrgreen:

one hole is on the bottom located for easy access to R29, R30 F revision amp schematic
i'll post pics soon i took enough ...damn

so in that i put a fender 10K bias pot wired it up as a PI balance ala dumplesque and hi-fi days of tubes... works great and is stable as heck and loafing....the pot is that is i just set it for 1/2 of read pre-installed resistance fired up stuff after hooking up my scope using two traces and my scope shows them in different colors so i easily overlay them once i established zero and symmetry was almost flawless i am hooking up a distortion monitor to read the distortion between the two looked to be nil additive or normal display (i can get ultra resolution phase angle differences tho)...they distort at the pI no matter what tube i use once adjusted i may attempt to chase that down...not too worried

i put in a bias balance and was mind dead when i convinced of this idiocy...but it in returned decent results but wasn't safe - so while on the phone to bud that makes amps on another island i was fiddling with a couple bias post and smoking some 'medical and it hit me

i butted them up and soldered them together..put them next to the bias circuit and brought the bias visa a larger and rerouted wire to the pots(Vdd connection) added two safety resistors (220k) i think (Vdd to wiper one each)...I have to look at the values.

When i soldered the two pots together i skewed them so the Vdd pins for both pots were soldered together so at that point i put 25uf of filter. I will add something like a .001uf for hash removal there also (F-18G Growler and a sub simulation and EW simulator spewer of hash is just up the hill from my little sandy patch of water).

so basically i have two independent bias circuits and they are soldered together in an opposing stack i didn't have a bias pot with the tap and don't like the 10K voltage divider method either. Mounted THE BIAS STACK really close to the 220K resistors that feed bias. RAW bias was -72 volts at my line level -i adjust one from the inside and one half from outside on the bottom and i can do both at once and get it nuts on AFTER i determined the final PI tube selection...i have about a 100 OEM NOS or slightly used plus millions of GT from mesa and fender....have not selected the tube set i was using mullard and tube store premiums 7025 2.2K metal Oxides i had laying around replace the 15K resistor the VK comes with stock.

i like 5751 in there or other things just depends a 12at7 swings a ton of current the 6l6 /KT66 at the same resistor values

removed the old bias pot, will use old bias hole for a 50k tail resistor pot or an ODS trim pot i will use mogami shielded wire (tail resistor pots are cool...change the character of an amp in not nice ways or attain sweetness :mrgreen:

not changing out tone stack values yet like the Tim C mod suggests nor have i tried the 390Pf at the reverb mix function (i have and kept it in my 6g15 RI with sozo rolled caps and like it) i want the base sound established meaning basically stock values with good parts or i mean more expensive higher voltage.

tonight when my honeydos "if ya wanna eat"....are done i intend to scope the .22/.0068uf +2ea 470K section off of V4 and monkey with it maybe -it's a vibro king (not changing out values...skewing some that can be returned to normal . (going to buy more VKs i think..) i imagine i will end up with just a capacitor and maybe a bias resistor on that section of amp..we'll see

OK what else

i copied the bias circuit of the supersonic 22 where i took the 1 ohm 1% CF i have i paralleled a IN4007 with each one, i took a three terminal strip (middle terminal one grounds out) strip i took the cathode ends of the resistor/diode set to Cathode to ground...the VK has welding wire sized grounds all white all laid out nicely and many home runs at that terminal strip i soldered this three terminal assembly to that ground "mecca"

then bent strip outta the way and attached the herk'n cathode wires to it..then because i am anal about safety (meaning reliability) i ran a home run from the middle lug of my 3 terminal assembly to the chassis ground i have designated mecca (2) at the power cord green wire ground screw (now a post...i ran a home run from their mecca to the mecca (2) post in order to negate/mitigate possible ground currents in the steel chassis.

all 1M resistor went to 1W MF type the two input 10K's i went to Dale carbon film mil spec 1W each to spread thermal loads to add to the effort to get or keep the beast quiet. Added the same 10K type to the return of the effects not sure i am keeping it until i test with and without scope

i have ordered all 1 watt CF resistors for the amp and will install, 2 watt metal film 1% on the plates 2 watt 470 ohm CF resistors hand matched.

like i said i drilled the hole where power ground terminates to the chassis and that is mecca 2 a bolt (screw like a #6 or 8 machine screw) an i used deoxit D and deoixt G on the post, chassis both sides, and i soldered the power cord terminates to their respective wire not to rely solely on the crimp.

i dropped the ohmic difference between the Mecca stack the VK comes with to the power cord ground.

added a .001uf film cap across the bass pot and am experimenting with bypassing of coupling resistor R with 150, 250, 390, 500, 750PF or .001uf/none have not determined if it stays and will have to re test if i take the stock values of 100K down to as low as 840 ohm as tim C mods suggest that would be R-68 from the treble pot wiper

First i disabled the vibrato then i just removed all the parts took note of the layout and bagged the parts for reversal if needed....but i'll just get another King if that happens

SO i have two pot positions plus and under the chassis hole whose purpose is not nailed in gold

so i am going to plop an Dumble ODS into that 12ax7 location and vibrato space on the board, i am perf. board kluging a tight HRM board (Hot Rubber Monkey (or rod some say) or doing it on copper not sure yet...two .022uf, a 33k resistor and a 500pf s/mica (i like 56K so i may do that after testing) for the spanning resistor, trimmers for the "pots" and a standard fender relay (yellow ones), add a trim pot where bias hole was if not for the tail tweaker we'll see) (stack switcher)

i figure i'll use the foot switch function of the fat and kick that and the ODS on at the same time. i am not a huge shredder tone guy so i will adjust it all to make the VK sweeten and fatten up and have an over-driven sound but a sweet one and a sweet gain boost and if i do a trim pot on the bottom i can skew it a bit.

More to come but not too much its a vibro king that has no vibrato bt soon an ODS

pics vid and sound clips with a sweet colorless recording set up (but the mic does put the mellow into mellow) all will come with a marked up schematic..and observations - so at 3:04PM PST from an island in the great northwest bye -Rollo

PS -in Byrdland hell trying to put pots back in the guitar after pick up swap.... :?

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Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 4:02 am
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" When i soldered the two pots together i skewed them so the Vdd pins for both pots were soldered together so at that point i put 25uf of filter. I will add something like a .001uf for hash removal. "

No worries about hash from the bias supply circuit. If you use a ultra-fast diode, like a UF4007 --- even as a half-wave rectifier PLUS a good filter cap with metal oxide resistor --- you will get no noise onto the grids. Even a conventional 1N4007 isn't going to inject much hash into this circuit.

What is more important is you get STEADY negative voltage onto the grids. So, layout and soldering (esp ground points) is important. As well as, good contact between the sockets and tubes.

I need to read for post in sections. A lot there to "hash" over. :lol:


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Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 11:00 am
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need to read for post in sections. A lot there to "hash" over. :lol:

Yeah when at the Evil Empire I moonlighted teaching community college i can get WAY too detailed (also lots of triage on blown crap to report so it's a habit on top of brain damage and weed...good BC weed) evil empire's biz server make about 100K$ a second downtime is frowned upon

today Sunday F1 is on, political shows are finished and my blood pressure is back to normal lab is warmed up so i am going to investigate a few things with tools...then

put a .0022 between the section where the weird .22/.0068 is (C5/6)

and after that a 150K to ground and see what happens...and i'll fatten up the 150pf to a 390 or 500 and try 250 also

the 716's are new no aging yet so it's a tight sound like a new boogie in a way and i have newer Jensen's i it (blue frames) they are stiff (breaking i a vibro king required renting a cabin high in the mountains far from anyone, beer weed and 50 hours worth of tunes to jam to cranked (Elton John's Nederland studio comes to mind)

I have a nice hot rubber monkey build going part ceritone part Rollo :mrgreen:

2 ea .022uf at 600v
1 ea 500pf (for now)
33K spanning resistor (JTM-45) (and 56K/82K) my preference but i'll test 33K first
fender relay (yellow ones like supersonic line have)
1N4007 snubber with a .01uf (going to buy some 1A shottkey and start using them for my rectifiers and Caddock resistors for my power section

determining pots to use bourns or NOS Allen Bradley multi turns TBD

now i need to figure out the sweep functions of my tek AFG3022 :shock: ...it does it but i have it blazing need to make it look like a sweep sync it to the scope etc and my bench is cluttered with the remains of a trainwreck express...toss that crap on the ground and get busy on the VK

all new stuff and i have had little time until now to putz with it all
later gotta grab brews it's race time :D - Rollo

PS taking readings etc,and pics etc will follow with recordings :wink:

i solved a mysterious problem with my DELL i use for a DAW (PT) so nowi can record without locking the computer up and put out some sound samples using the all the standard guitars

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Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 11:09 am
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Mercedes is going eat up everyone at Gilles Villeneuve. Even, the MB powered Williams may place high.

You happen to have a schematic drawing of all your mods? One picture can be worth a thousand words. :lol: :lol:

Interesting mods.


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Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 1:44 pm
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BMW2002Ti wrote:
Mercedes is going eat up everyone at Gilles Villeneuve. Even, the MB powered Williams may place high.

You happen to have a schematic drawing of all your mods? One picture can be worth a thousand words. :lol: :lol:

Interesting mods.



will have when done trying out an ODS circuit or ripping it out and just running no vibrato

yeppers i am notating everything and am not making gross changes -tweaks except for the c5/6 stuff and possibly the change of the Pf cap

last lap crash was riotous -be Massa was angry :cry: :cry:

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Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 7:37 pm
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All i can say is dump the network after V4 i have good pics that will show things

not going to post detailed measurements (but will i wrote them out just need to organize) ..maybe later tonight but here it is

i injected 1Khz into the front end establish my artificial baseline

i scoped both ends of the net plus amps output, i overlaid and i started measuring phase delays, pk pk and rms on top of means for all..

the network was flat past 15K from 1K BUT there was a 6-8 degree phase delay and subsequent loss of signal (somewhat insignificant) between the output of V4 into the .22 to the out of the .0068 -swept also noticed nothing...so i yanked it all

slapped in my ancient cornell dubilier sub box and started dialing out phase delay so when i hit .1uf BINGO. i have astrons, 716's 6ps mallory 150and black jacks all oem... ,456 of a degree from 6-8 degrees-put all of them in and all were sweet..the mallory has the sweetest sound black cat second

tried them all they all were less than a degree at .1uf (.456 mean)

hung two crap jumpers out the cab, installed a better reverb cable to solve an issue, and fired it up

tele, byrdland, LP SG with P90's (duncans) all kicked it (duncan antiquities screwed to glued hard wood blocks in the SG....ARE YOU KIDDING vint wire job and .022 sozo's 500K x 4)

kills kicks the tens out of the frames the 2 12's are just fattening it all up

so i put i .0068...naaaa

tried .0022, 0033, 047. 4.7 (yep) .022 .01 .001 and gave the hell up

the .1 gives me spectrum -sweet and fat balanced in bass and treble -mids nice

so NOW with that said

not wanting too cuz it's a vibro king mess with it too much :oops:

going to mess with the 250pf at the mix function to 390 like my 6G15 and try

then fatten up the 150pf also and give 250 and 390 a try...250 will more than likely be the high limit for me (VK)...

now considering buying a couple more to make a head out of (sold my other one) and one as a mule (tranny's are unbelievable

i have taken many cool pics i'll edit and post with data next few days sound clips after friday

it's open and fat i have no complaints and am going to investigate a few other things tomorrow

the stacked bias works like a charm and is solid the PI balance too all of this is nice but i may track down some truncation on the 180 degree output....

clipping before the feed side and PI bal and Bias can adjust some out...but i am at 6-7 when that happens...ears are bleeding

and the tube complement now is nebulous because i am grabbing oem and nos

tomorrow i dial it in better and put together my data - i see no reason to mess with the circuit further i was thinking of leaving a 470K but the cap feeds the pot and tube well see no need to introduce and RC element at this time - time will tell

yank it

.1uf/400-600v

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Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 11:02 pm
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Well, this all sounds interesting. The Vibro-King runs an interesting tail resistors setup. Not at all like the long-tailed pairs run on vintage tweeds that used 7025 (12AX7). Wonder why?


Just a thought. :D


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Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 12:19 pm
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BMW2002Ti wrote:
Well, this all sounds interesting. The Vibro-King runs an interesting tail resistors setup. Not at all like the long-tailed pairs run on vintage tweeds that used 7025 (12AX7). Wonder why?


Just a thought. :D


no feedback so the tail ohmic value is up there 47K vrs typical 22-27K

http://www.aikenamps.com/index.php/the-long-tail-pair (his whole white paper site is absoultly worth looking over i might have to buy one of his amps for all the effort

"
The next resistor is the "tail" resistor (R6). It is used as a "pseudo constant current source", providing local negative feedback to the PI. This resistor is necessary because, without it, the differential amplifier would have very unbalanced outputs (the output signal on one plate having a larger peak-to-peak amplitude than the output signal on the other plate), because of the low relative gain of the tubes comprising the differential cathode-coupled amplifier. The larger this resistor is, the better the balance of the PI outputs. There is an upper limit, however, where the tail resistor drops too much voltage and there is no headroom left (or perhaps it should be called "footroom", since it raises the DC level of the cathodes of the tubes). This resistor is best adjusted by careful attention to PI balance and headroom, settling on a good compromise between them.
Making the first tube's plate resistor (R1) 10-20% smaller than the second tube's plate resistor (R2) will compensate the gain difference between the two amplifier sections, and should be done before manipulating the tail resistor. Note that this should done only if one input is used as a signal input, and the second used for a feedback input. If both inputs are used as signal inputs, for channel 1 and channel 2, for instance, the plate resistors should be identical, because compensating the balance of one channel will make the balance of the second channel even worse.

The tail resistor also "bootstraps" the stage, resulting in a higher input impedance, due to the local feedback action, as described in the grid resistor section above. Note that the bias resistor, R5, sets the current through this tail resistor. The amount of current set by the bias resistor, along with the value of the tail resistor, determines the DC voltage dropped across this resistor, which, in turn, partly determines the headroom of the circuit. If no global negative feedback is used, the tail resistor should be made as large as practical, with respect to the amount of current being drawn, and the desired headroom of the amplifier. This will give the best balance to the PI outputs. This resistor has little effect on gain, but a major effect on balance and headroom."

i just sent a design to linear systems for the new holy grail CC fet pre...i want to do a class A out (2 ea KT88) jazz amp with fet pre then to discrete opamps to a oddwatt output section

sould be sweet when finished this winter i start it when the "rains come'

doing a few more things today on the king then let it lay fallow and poke at it until i get the 1 watt resistors in

the ODS and 1 watts go in at the same time..doing the HRM ods circuit

funny all the cats and tube amps holy grail but when they have a mic going into an AVID 6 board and such all opamps itty bitty ones and itty bitty capacitors and they sound wonderful and folks are always making noise ...

i almost did a SMD trainwreck but with tubes and so forth...killer ceramic caps and so forth i bet it would sound sweet....may do it anyway for giggles


i'll post soon i too good pic yesterday with the nikon so they ARE better than Iphone5 shots i took....

now for more smell testing with the jumper wires to make sure...then some more slight Dumble tweaks and

i wait for the parts

i just got word my supersonic 22 main board is headed back so it'll get mods and be ready to rock again

i am impressed (after fixing some ...manuf cost icky crap) and it's gain stage is warm and unique not and ods rip off but nice balanced gain stages etc so once it's all recapped and 1w in signal path type of stuff then i'll be happy again

i have 6 amps down and apart and all i have is a VK and a mesa 50 cal bleck spewer (it;s gonna spew love soon)....

man if someone calls for a gig i am screwed less i can find a back to move the VK for me....it's sinking into the concrete as i speak...

momma is SUPPOSED to order a marsh filled drri board to save time..gotta remind her 50 times

stay tuned i am liking the VK direction and it still is VK ...now the fine tuning is finishing up

i am making copious notes and pics like i said...but for sound i am just recording the final product before ODS and after i add ODS

haven't tried the timc mods not sure i will

i'll get a super reverb....this is a vk with sweeting

because IMHO the VK has WOW for iron (factory wise) and would be a great mule

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Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 1:41 pm
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Location: Coupeville, WA
:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

OK NOW momma is off island and i can't hear her yelling so with crappy RS jumpers tied to various caps i went through the whole gamut

59 LP R9 #14
last fullerton strat with fralin blues special;
sg with duncan antiquities screwed to wood (500k/500k)
esquire with BG-1400
tele loaded with abby's
epi p93 with 3 fastback alnico 2 progressive wornd

and ALL OF THEM sounded frigging good WITH

the .1uf i used an astron, black cat pretty much like above but this time i could CRANK

ok so my basic tube set now is wild because i was chasing reverb demons (crappy assed cable (in a 4K$ amp -it a custom shop amp you would think....ya know) just put a high def mogami rca rca and the reverb is alive

OK so the .1 in my opinion is the fullest sounding with all the guitars of note cranked or not and i have no other monkeys to try so i just order a .1600v for it why not>

last night i finished slamming some alnico II paf's in my bryd, .022 jupiters, and a 690pf/250K bypass both pups the byrd is in the VK 3 x 10 and 2 x 12

.1 in the former V4 network spot...

killed it dudes jazzing in a VK

is nice so i tried it with the les paul

did you know you can play jazz on a les paul - go figure..

burned

very happy and i ran .1uf

now this is anal, i ran a 100-15K sweep at 100mv in and ran it on an inductive load for 72 hours with the formerly tight sounding 716's in place of the brown turds

world of difference the caps are coming in and almost as good as my 6Ps's i have

really pleased -more coming WHY

i have holes and the M-30 with the 5.1M + various caps on a rotary might be nice in a jack hole since i only plug one into the VK an always use hi gain input... :roll:

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Post subject: Re: VIBRO KING QUESTION
Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 1:42 pm
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It's burning good at 5-7 damn thing is popping flies a mile away :mrgreen:

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