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Post subject: Re: Build Your Own Amp - 2
Posted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 9:22 am
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The kit with shipping included came to $1,018(US) which converted at that moment to $1,101(CAN). I'll have to pay the fed tax (GST) upon delivery which is 5%. I'm hoping that's all. I requested shipping via USPS rather than a courier such as Fed-Ex or UPS because those companies also charge a "brokerage" fee for items crossing the border which postal services do not charge. I've looked into it on 2 separate occasions and there are no border fees associated with either USA or Canadian gov'ts so it's just a courier rip-off cash-cow license to steal. The courier rip-off rates vary from 20% - 30%. Yah ... pretty huge. Any Cannuck reading this should take note of this fact. Another little tip you can do is ask the vendor to specify the item is "repair parts" if possible. That's not always possible because they will X-ray the package and if it doesn't look like parts they'll open it and the gig will be up. For some reason repair parts pass through customs much quicker and easier. I did not ask for that this time because of the cabinet and speaker which would be a dead give-away that this is a whole amp kit and not just a few parts.

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Post subject: Re: Build Your Own Amp - 2
Posted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 4:22 pm
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OK, so I'm looking at the Switchcraft web site and I'm wondering which one I want. I'm thinking it is the number 11.

Switchcraft ¼" Jacks

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Post subject: Re: Build Your Own Amp - 2
Posted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 4:35 pm
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Maybe, you need the jack that shunts to ground, when there is no plug inserted? This effectively grounds out the jack when nothing is plugged in --- reducung RF and ground loop noise. And protects the output tranny from a "no load" situation.

At least for the inputs and the main speaker jacks.

See schematic:

http://www.webphix.com/schematic%20heav ... _schem.pdf


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Post subject: Re: Build Your Own Amp - 2
Posted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 6:38 pm
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Which jacks do you need, input, speaker? If you use two speaker jacks, does your kit have different ohm taps on the OT?

A guitar jack is an 11A, or L11A for longer bushing, and is a simple two wire jack. A typical input jack on an amp, or a speaker jack on an amp, is a shorting jack (tip is shunt), connecting the tip to ground when nothing is plugged in, which are 12A or L12A. A transfer jack used as a speaker jack on an amp, that will switch OT impedance when used as a second speaker jack, is a 13A or L13A.

For amp input jacks, for one or two inputs, typically use a 12A (or L12A). For two speaker jacks, and two OT impedance taps, use a 12A (or L12A) for the main speaker jack, and a 13A (or L13A) for the ext speaker jack. If the amp only has one output jack, typically use a 12A (or L12A) to protect the amp with no speaker plugged in, or use an 11A with no protection.

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Post subject: Re: Build Your Own Amp - 2
Posted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 7:51 pm
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G'day Beemer,

Haven't posted here in a while but I dropped in today and noticed this thread, I haven't read the whole thread so I don't know if you made a purchase yet, but As you are in Canada I believe, may I suggest checking out Trinity Amps, also in Canada (Toronto) they have a very nice 5E3 kit, top quality components, step by step documentation and Stephen the owner is a great guy and a pleasure to deal with both during purchase and support during the build. I have built the Trinity "Tramp" in Head format (I fully documented it and two of my 5e3 builds elsewhere in this forum). The Trinity kit it was a great experience and the amp is an absolute gem.

Trinity also have their own forum for their customers to document their builds or just swap info and ask questions, Stephen and is logged in just about every day. Most of the members are Trinity customers and have either built the kit, in the process of building or looking to build.

The Kit
http://www.trinityamps.com/phpbb/viewto ... f=6&t=1036

More Details
http://www.trinityamps.com/Product_Trindel.htm

Here's the Trinity Tweed forum.
http://www.trinityamps.com/phpbb/viewforum.php?f=11


Anyway just another option you have. Hope this helps.

EDIT: I see you already pulled the trigger so disregard this post. :oops:

Cheers,

Snowy


Last edited by No457 Snowy on Fri Jul 19, 2013 11:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post subject: Re: Build Your Own Amp - 2
Posted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 9:37 pm
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shimmilou wrote:
Which jacks do you need, input, speaker? If you use two speaker jacks, does your kit have different ohm taps on the OT?

A guitar jack is an 11A, or L11A for longer bushing, and is a simple two wire jack. A typical input jack on an amp, or a speaker jack on an amp, is a shorting jack (tip is shunt), connecting the tip to ground when nothing is plugged in, which are 12A or L12A. A transfer jack used as a speaker jack on an amp, that will switch OT impedance when used as a second speaker jack, is a 13A or L13A.

For amp input jacks, for one or two inputs, typically use a 12A (or L12A). For two speaker jacks, and two OT impedance taps, use a 12A (or L12A) for the main speaker jack, and a 13A (or L13A) for the ext speaker jack. If the amp only has one output jack, typically use a 12A (or L12A) to protect the amp with no speaker plugged in, or use an 11A with no protection.

Cool. Thanks, shimmi!

It's for the input of the 5E3 I will build this summer. Why do I want "tip is shunt"? (referring to the Switchcraft chart) I Googled it and I still don't quite understand. Wiki says an electrical shunt is an unwanted short circuit.

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Post subject: Re: Build Your Own Amp - 2
Posted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 11:37 pm
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If you look at the 5E3 schematic (link above), and most all modern input jacks, you can see that the tip connection on the input jack is connected to ground, showing the position of the switch in the jack when no guitar cable is inserted. When you insert a guitar cable, the switch is opened, removing the ground connection. The input is typically grounded when nothing is inserted into the jack to prevent unwanted noise being amplified when the amp isn't being used. The switch is indicated by an arrow at the end of a line, and if you can imagine, the tip connection on the jack will move when a cable is inserted, thus disconnecting the ground connection from the tip.

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Post subject: Re: Build Your Own Amp - 2
Posted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 11:05 am
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shimmilou wrote:
If you look at the 5E3 schematic (link above), and most all modern input jacks, you can see that the tip connection on the input jack is connected to ground, showing the position of the switch in the jack when no guitar cable is inserted. When you insert a guitar cable, the switch is opened, removing the ground connection. The input is typically grounded when nothing is inserted into the jack to prevent unwanted noise being amplified when the amp isn't being used. The switch is indicated by an arrow at the end of a line, and if you can imagine, the tip connection on the jack will move when a cable is inserted, thus disconnecting the ground connection from the tip.

Cool. Thanks again.

If it were you would you go with standard length or long? And why?

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Post subject: Re: Build Your Own Amp - 2
Posted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 1:40 pm
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Typically, the standard length is fine. The longer bushing type is sometimes necessary if you are using fiber isolation washers to keep the jacks from contacting the chassis, and/or the chassis is extra thick. Some amps use the isolation washers and some don't, depends on the design. I believe that the 5E3 would not require the isolation washers, so the standard length jacks should work. Sometimes, the isolation washers are necessary to prevent the noise that can occur with some amp designs if the input jacks were to be connected to the chassis.

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Post subject: Re: Build Your Own Amp - 2
Posted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 4:25 pm
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Shimmy,

I believe the idea behind insulated jack and switch contacts to the chassis/faceplate is to maintain the integrity of star-grounding scheme. Fender kinda does this by having these components contact the brass grounding plate. Brass being a better conductor than chassis steel. Seems to work ok for most guitar amps.


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Post subject: Re: Build Your Own Amp - 2
Posted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 6:12 pm
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That might be, and it's to prevent noise. My HRDlx, and many other modern amps, isolate the jacks from chassis, with no brass grounding plate, and no star grounding scheme. I don't have any amps with a brass plate or star grounding.....maybe the Bassman, but I don't remember seeing a brass plate. :?:

Anyone else noticed that lately there have been underlined words in responses and pop-up ads? I just did some kind of plug-in update so maybe it's only my browser. :?:

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Post subject: Re: Build Your Own Amp - 2
Posted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 7:31 am
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Think you picked up a bug, Shimmi. I get none of that.

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Post subject: Re: Build Your Own Amp - 2
Posted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 7:54 am
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Shimmy, I don't that view either. I'm using IE 9.0.18.

This brass plate:


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Post subject: Re: Build Your Own Amp - 2
Posted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 12:07 pm
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BMW2002Ti wrote:
Shimmy, I don't that view either. I'm using IE 9.0.18.

This brass plate:


Image


My Bassman Clone:

Image

The Wrecking Ball:

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Post subject: Re: Build Your Own Amp - 2
Posted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 8:11 pm
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BMW-KTM wrote:
Think you picked up a bug, Shimmi. I get none of that.


Apparently it was this "Visicom" coupon app that was added with the update. I removed it and all is well.

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