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Post subject: problem with my fender hot rod deluxe
Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 9:57 am
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When i have my clean channel on my hot rod, it keeps randomly switching to the drive channel then back to clean over and over again. Its really annoying me i checked all the switches and plugs...what could it be?


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Post subject: Re: problem with my fender hot rod deluxe
Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 12:43 pm
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Probalby solder joints in particular on +/16V supply, see R478 and 479 (5W resitors) 8)
Take care about lethal voltages, if you haven't enough experiences, contact a electronic technician for repairing. :wink:

http://support.fender.com/schematics/gu ... ematic.pdf

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Post subject: Re: problem with my fender hot rod deluxe
Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 1:18 pm
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+1 Tissan, solder joints and/or cracked circuit trace (I think that you mean R78 and R79, both are 470-ohm, 5-watt resistors). :idea:

You must pull the main circuit board to access the solder joints. Link below to a great site for HRDlx info. :)

http://www.justinholton.com/hotrod/

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Post subject: Re: problem with my fender hot rod deluxe
Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 3:59 pm
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+1
Tis-san wrote:
(I think that you mean R78 and R79, both are 470-ohm, 5-watt resistors)

(Why an extra 4? I need to consult ! :wink: )

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Post subject: Re: problem with my fender hot rod deluxe
Posted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 10:42 am
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take care, even with amp unplugged the caps may hold a charge. :shock:

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Post subject: Re: problem with my fender hot rod deluxe
Posted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 12:14 pm
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Fender has a great warranty program. If the amp is within warranty, one option would be to get it checked out/serviced.


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Post subject: Re: problem with my fender hot rod deluxe
Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 1:15 pm
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Muchly agreed with the diagnosis here. I have a Hot Rod Deluxe that acted exactly as you are describing. I did some research and found out it's very common with the HRD and usually can be attributed to those 470-ohm 5W cement resistors in the 16V supply. My symptoms included the random channel switching and reverb switching in and out; apparently if you have anything in the effect loop you'll notice it switching in/out as well. The aforementioned resistors get very hot in operation, and between the heat and vibration they'll partially de-solder themselves, resulting in cold solder joints. Their function is to provide DC voltage for the channel switching relays, effect loop op-amps, and reverb op-amps; hence the symptoms we all seem to experience. By the way, if you're looking at the PCB, the resistors are numbered R78 and R79, and look like little white boxes located near the center of the board closer to the bottom edge. If those solder joints look dull or lumpy, that's a dead giveaway. IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO SAFELY DRAIN THE CAPACITORS ON THE POWER SUPPLY THEN DON'T ATTEMPT TO EVEN LOOK AT THE PCB, LET ALONE TOUCH IT. Seriously. Those caps are still charged up a long time after the amp has been unplugged. Electricity has no respect and can clobber you without any good reason.
I had my local Fender shop tech clean up the cold solder joints and re-solder the connections. He also added a jumper wire across the point that seemed most problematic. I had this fix applied more than a year ago and the problem has not recurred.

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