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Post subject: DRRI Replacement Tube Questions
Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:03 pm
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Sorry to make so many threads about this amp.

Anyway, I've been looking into possible mods for this amp and have been reading a lot and doing a pretty good job of keeping everything straight. So, I've been thinking, and debating, and listening to sound clips and I have a few questions, if no one minds terribly to answer them:

Can one of the 12AT7 tubes be replaced by a 12AU7?

Can/ should the 5AR4 be replaced by a 5U4 (rectifier tube)

And, finally: do tubes need to soldered, or can I simply plug them in?


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Post subject: Re: DRRI Replacement Tube Questions
Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:11 pm
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Maybe this will help.
Tubes just plug in.

https://ssl.eurotubes.com/cart/index.ph ... gory_id=35

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Post subject: Re: DRRI Replacement Tube Questions
Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:23 pm
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http://www.eurotubes.com/euro-Fender-DeluxeV.htm

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Post subject: Re: DRRI Replacement Tube Questions
Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 10:40 pm
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Just what do you hope to accomplish with these......mods?

Are there sonic issues with the amp that you think are lacking or......?

FTR, many of the chowderheads who post their egg-spurt opinions about this (or any) amp on the web don't know jack fookin' chit.

ABOUT ANYTHING!

Did any of them bother to remark that a 5U4GB draws 30 percent more filament current than a GZ34 and that they know for a fact that the 6.3 V tap on the DRRI's P/S transformer can reliably deliver such an added margin???

Did they explain what the 12AT7s in a DRRI actually do and compare and contrast the operating parameters of this type with a 12AU7's characteristics?

Never mind......have a ball.

:roll:

Arjay

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Post subject: Re: DRRI Replacement Tube Questions
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:42 am
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Retroverbial wrote:
Just what do you hope to accomplish with these......mods?

Are there sonic issues with the amp that you think are lacking or......?

FTR, many of the chowderheads who post their egg-spurt opinions about this (or any) amp on the web don't know jack fookin' chit.

ABOUT ANYTHING!

Did any of them bother to remark that a 5U4GB draws 30 percent more filament current than a GZ34 and that they know for a fact that the 6.3 V tap on the DRRI's P/S transformer can reliably deliver such an added margin???

Did they explain what the 12AT7s in a DRRI actually do and compare and contrast the operating parameters of this type with a 12AU7's characteristics?

Never mind......have a ball.

:roll:

Arjay


Amen to that!! Before I'll mod an amp, I'll sell it and get something I want. If the amp's new, using non recommended tubes or modding the circuit will void the warranty. Don't mod an amp because someone else tells you you should. Internet sound clips are not a good representation of what your amp will sound like. If the amp is not doing it sonically for you sell it instead of chasing you tail. You may even have to go outside the Fender camp to find what YOU want. I'd trust my own ears only and take opinions with a grain of salt.

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Post subject: Re: DRRI Replacement Tube Questions
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 11:21 am
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LR,
Hold off on doing anything to your new amp.
If it's new, the speaker still hasn't broken in yet. It will take some time. I've had my DRRI for almost 2 months now and I'm just starting to hear it mellow out. Probably be another few months before it does some more and might be a while longer till it finally settles in.

I've read a lot of the "mods" out there and while they look interesting I won't be applying any of them for a while until I hear what this amp sounds like in a year. Why? Because I don't have mine in a controlled environment. The seasonal changes will probably factor into how the speaker breaks-in. Plus the Warranty would be voided and quite frankly, I don't see the need to!

Also, please don't take this the wrong way but if you're not sure on whether or not a tube needs to be soldered into the amp, you really shouldn't go "modding" since as the folks in the previous replies have already mentioned, changing things because someone else said to, isn't good enough. Talk to others who have done those mods and see what they say. Hopefully, they've been running with the "mod" for a year or so with no ill effect. Was it worth doing? What did they lose if anything?

The gentlemen that have replied to you here have a lot of knowledge and experience in what they are speaking about. After following their posts for a couple of years now I can say that what they say is worth listening to. So be careful what you do. Or all that money you spent will be followed with more money for repairs. :(
Best of luck.

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Post subject: Re: DRRI Replacement Tube Questions
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 11:39 am
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Also, keep in mind that the type/quality of guitar you use has as much effect on tone as the amp you plug it into.
I have a walnut strat that only sounds good through some amps, not so good through others.
I have a 68 LP that would sound good plugged into a toaster.
If you have a new amp, chances are there is nothing "wrong" with it. You just need to experiment with it, and as earlier stated, give it time to break in.
100 hours minimum.
And keep effect pedals out of the equation until you know what the amp can do on it's own. Distortion boxes being #1 on the list.

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Post subject: Re: DRRI Replacement Tube Questions
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 1:23 pm
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I posted this reply before, but where it went no one knows. So if you see it in a non sequitur thread... please forgive me.

Do not replace the OEM GZ34/5AR4 BEFORE trying other mods.

I do not like the tone of the 12AU7-type tube. It's rather non-linear, but in a not-so-good sounding way (IMHO). The amps that use 12AU7-types OEM, I've had best tonal luck with CBS-Hytron 5418A, 7316, and 7318. All very $$$ today. :(

My experience with the half-dozen DRRI I've seen, fixed, laid my greasy palms on; got the best response from changing the power tubes & speaker. I've used NOS RCA's, Sylvania, Ken Rad, Raytheon, GE (Canada), TungSol (1950's era), Brimar, Visseuax, even a pair of AWV Aussie made 6V6GT's. All sounded good, with their own little tone peccadilloes.

Used 6V6GT (clear and smoked glass), GTY (brown base), GTA, and even 6V6G (coke bottles). All can be run at about same volt range and idle current bias. Except the GTA which can be run at a slightly higher idle bias, same plate volts to get around 14 watts idle dissipation versus standard 6V6G and 6V6GT 12 watts.

Another arcane note on 6V6GT types, if you have or can find a good NOS RCA 7408 (or GE or Sylvania)... these are nice tubes. Not as creamy as the standard 6V6GT. But much better headroom. Cleaner top end, esp at volume. Tighter bass. Same plate voltages. Idle bias them same as 6V6GTA.

One other oddball. The Bendix 5992. A tone master, after break-in. I try to run the plates a tad lower (350-375 VDC) & set idle dissipation to around 10-12 watts.

I have not tried the reissued TungSol 6V6GT. But, I have heard very good things about it. PPl I've heard or read, said to be sure you get them from dealer that ferrets out the good ones (testing and noise) & matched them.


Speakers are another mod that takes well to the DRRI I've mucked with. I've used either ceramic or alnico magnet Weber Vintage speakers. Haven't had one complaint from owners.

One other little peccadillo on my part. The 1990's made DRRI came with some rather chessy Chinese-made main electrolytic caps. You can squeeze replacement Sprague ATOMS under the hood. Just be sure to insulate the leads (I use Teflon insulation) & I also cover the inside of the cap hood with electrician's tape. Gotta do this because Spragues are bigger for same or similar value, than the OEM caps.

Good Luck!


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Post subject: Re: DRRI Replacement Tube Questions
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 1:40 pm
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hey guys - maybe he just wants to know the answers. you know~ sometimes that ain't all bad.
I just don't have them, but I will say what I have done with this amp.

to tube newbie: possibly are you wanting breakup at a lower volume OR breakup at a MUCH lower volume? If you do AND you want it at alot lower volume maybe this is not your amp.
But you can get it at a bit lower volume with this DRRI amp. I might be going on a long tangent if breakup is not your concern. But you can put a 12AX7 in place of the phase inverter 12at7.
But i recommend not changing any of the amp's circuitry including changing to other types of tubes. When i buy tubes, i get what the amps calling for. I like a lil gain. I always get the Electro-Harmonix tubes ( matched quad for amps with 4 power tubes and a matched pair for amps like the DRRI.
As far as getting more breakup, I will really think about amp placement. I can get the amp up to 6-8 and not kill anyone by rolling back my guitar volume to around 6-9 and finding the right spot for the amp. I have also used a heavy winter blanket in front of/ top of the amp in different ways. be careful though, due to fire and your amp getting TOO hot. Not something you can just drop on top off your amp and go - ok ! Yeah some will say they are always trying to get the blanket off of their sound, not put it on. But you can always play with guitar treble and the guitar pickup selector when trying this.
The DRRI IS loud, when i am not playing out or practicing with a Drummer, i almost alwasy play my champ. I love tube breakup and use my guitar vol & pick ATTACK for cleans anyways. so the DRRI is awesome for that. I was really suprised at the fullness of the amp. I was scared going from always using 2-12" cabs to the 1-12 combo, but the DRRI sounds great !
I love the sound of 6V6 amps.
Also check out the dr z nite light attenuator. This attenuator doesn't affect tone too bad, and is made for amps like the DRRI. Of course remember that part of great tone can be partly from speaker distortion. The stock speaker will also break in & sound EVEN better! As someone said volume is tone. I absolutely love when the DRRI is on 7-10 and ooozing out killer tone, but my kids & wife not so much.
sorry to keep on, but i really love talking guitar stuff when not playing guitar.

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Post subject: Re: DRRI Replacement Tube Questions
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 1:42 pm
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cool post BMW....

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Post subject: Re: DRRI Replacement Tube Questions
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 1:43 pm
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In addition to the very good advice given above, my advice would be to shut off the computer and stop reading about the various ways you can seriously devalue your amp/negate the 5 Year Warranty, and just go and play it and discover the great sounds a DRRI can deliver.

Also keep in mind that even if the amp is turned off/unplugged, if you poke your fingers inside the amp and don't know what you are doing/touching you are at risk of getting a very very nasty surprise. If you are having a bad day and the stars line up you can easily end up dead! :shock:

Snowy


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Post subject: Re: DRRI Replacement Tube Questions
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 2:03 pm
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Hey! Ever thought about a Ibanez Tube Screamer or some such EFX box in front of the amp... So that it breaks-up sooner, before blasting everyone out of the house?


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Post subject: Re: DRRI Replacement Tube Questions
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 5:09 pm
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lone rocker wrote:
Sorry to make so many threads about this amp.

Anyway, I've been looking into possible mods for this amp and have been reading a lot and doing a pretty good job of keeping everything straight. So, I've been thinking, and debating, and listening to sound clips and I have a few questions, if no one minds terribly to answer them:

Can one of the 12AT7 tubes be replaced by a 12AU7?

Can/ should the 5AR4 be replaced by a 5U4 (rectifier tube)

And, finally: do tubes need to soldered, or can I simply plug them in?

I had an answer for you but I deleted it...maybe this one is a little less rude.
if you can't tweak a Deluxe Reverb into getting great tones by turning knobs,then you need a lot more practice...and should forget replacing tubes for awhile.


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Post subject: Re: DRRI Replacement Tube Questions
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 6:31 am
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The moral to this whole thread is...
IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T FIX IT... AND DON'T LET SOMEONE ELSE TELL YOU IT'S BROKE WHEN IT AIN'T. :wink:

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Post subject: Re: DRRI Replacement Tube Questions
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 6:36 am
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63supro wrote:
The moral to this whole thread is...
IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T FIX IT... AND DON'T LET SOMEONE ELSE TELL YOU IT'S BROKE WHEN IT AIN'T. :wink:

Amen!


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