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Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 10:21 am
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Retroverbial wrote:
BULLSHIT!


Arjay,

Tell us how you really feel and don't hold anything back. :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 12:45 pm
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stratele52 wrote:
I've played over 2100 professional gigs in my career, all but a handful with amps designed by Leo Fender.

Retroverbial
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I agree, if you talk about point to point amp, " modern low cost printed circuits are very often poor quality, same for caps and resistor

I have friends giging with old tubes Marshall ( point to point and hih quality printed circuits board) made in '70 or Hi watts and Soud City. They are tough night after night.


Turret board amps are not true point to point amps. Hand-wired, yes but not really point to point. I too have gigged for over 25 years and was never let down by any of my tube amp including Fender, Ampeg, Sunn, Silvertone , Danelectro and my new Egnater which is a PCB amp and has been gigged and rehearsed pretty hard for the past year and it has been flawless (knock on wood). It's not whether it's a pcb, ptp or a turret board hand wired amp, it's the materials, components, design and assembly that make a reliable tube amp.

As far as more HRDlx amps being "out there" Peavey has pretty strong sales of the Classic series, and so does Epiphone and they're less expensive amps and you don't hear of all these problems. The HRDlx was designed as a throw away amp. When you look at the price, it's not really that low end either. There are lots of lower end tubes amps that are problem free. My 74 Champ never saw the inside of a repair shop. As a matter of fact, I just changed an RCA 6V6 power tube that's been in there for over 25 years. I use the Champ for lower volume rehearsals and small jams as well as recording.
So the statement "if you are gigging constantly with a tube amp don't be surprised if there will be problems." As Arjay says is Bullshit pure and simple. I have somewhere near what Ajay has in tube amp gigs and I also was never left "high and dry".

Fact is if you buy a poorly designed, poorly constructed tube amp with cheap components like the HRD series, then the statement "if you are gigging constantly with a tube amp don't be surprised if there will be problems."
Holds true.

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Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 1:10 pm
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63supro wrote:
Fact is if you buy a poorly designed, poorly constructed tube amp with cheap components like the HRD series, then the statement "if you are gigging constantly with a tube amp don't be surprised if there will be problems."
Holds true.


+1

Hopefully, the corrections/upgrades made to these amps with the release of the new III series will eliminate some of the more common malfunctions. One of my clients whom I installed new pickups into his guitar yesterday just bought a brand-new HRD -- I'm trying to convince him to bring it by so I can look it over and see for myself what's been changed. I'll report back my findings if/when this occurs.

I should prolly have mentioned, I have in fact blown up some "good" amps, back when I was stupid and/or ignorant. That learning curve was steep but I took those rather expensive lessons to heart. And I have no desire to see anyone else pay that price -- hence, my adamant responses when I read some over-generalizations.

Arjay

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Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 1:50 pm
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Retroverbial wrote:
63supro wrote:
Fact is if you buy a poorly designed, poorly constructed tube amp with cheap components like the HRD series, then the statement "if you are gigging constantly with a tube amp don't be surprised if there will be problems."
Holds true.


+1

Hopefully, the corrections/upgrades made to these amps with the release of the new III series will eliminate some of the more common malfunctions. One of my clients whom I installed new pickups into his guitar yesterday just bought a brand-new HRD -- I'm trying to convince him to bring it by so I can look it over and see for myself what's been changed. I'll report back my findings if/when this occurs.

I should prolly have mentioned, I have in fact blown up some "good" amps, back when I was stupid and/or ignorant. That learning curve was steep but I took those rather expensive lessons to heart. And I have no desire to see anyone else pay that price -- hence, my adamant responses when I read some over-generalizations.

Arjay


Me too. Never on stage though and usually doing some stupid experimental thing as a kid. I hope Fender did address some of the problems. My tech told me they missed the mark on addressing the heat related issues. The board is a little thicker and supposedly they plated the through holes. I did get to see one briefly with the back off. It didn't seem all that different. The tube sockets still seem mounted poorly to the board.
I bet a lot of the problems would be solved by mounting the tube socket to the chassis or mounting them in a way as to not flex the board whenever you change the tubes. The 5 watt resistors need to be either lifted off the board or heat sinks used to dissipate the heat.

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Post subject: re: hot rod deluxe
Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 7:38 pm
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hey sorry guys holidays came up and have been busy, thanks for the replies.
Its actually one of the power tubes that doesn't heat up (the local amp tech explained power tubes were preamp tubes and vise versa) And it is running cold, one of the power tubes gets super hot and the other one just stays cold. The amp is not new as I bought it used but I do have all of the paper work and the registration card from the previous owner should i just attempt to have fender try and fix it or would you guys suggest me opening up the amp and attempt to solder?


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Post subject:
Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 7:47 pm
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the power tubes are electroharmonix 6l6eh's, sorry for the confusion


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Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 8:39 pm
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If you had new tubes installed, and still have the problem, it is in the amp circuitry. How could a "tech" miss that? :roll: You may have a five year warranty, I'd check that first. It could be any number of things, tube socket, screen resistors, solder joints, etc. Do you own, and know how to use a multi meter? :idea:

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Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 9:10 pm
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If you switch the position of the tubes, does the problem stay with the tube ? If so, time for new power tubes, socket cleaning, and a bias check. If the problem stays at the same socket, then someone will have to check out the amp. Art

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Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 10:16 pm
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shimmilou wrote:
If you had new tubes installed, and still have the problem, it is in the amp circuitry. How could a "tech" miss that? :roll: You may have a five year warranty, I'd check that first. It could be any number of things, tube socket, screen resistors, solder joints, etc. Do you own, and know how to use a multi meter? :idea:


http://www.fender.com/support/warranty/ ... R64CE3.pdf

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Post subject:
Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 10:50 pm
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not well enough trust myself with the amp, should i cease to use it immediately? I'm in the middle of recording, would it be ok to use at low volumes?


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Post subject:
Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 7:33 am
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I would stop using it immediately and get it fixed at a competent shop (check for warranty if you have the amp receipt). With one output tube not working, no telling what is happening to the other one. It may be running too hot, and if it fails, could do even more damage to your amp. I would go somewhere else other than the place that misdiagnosed it to begin with, those guys are a joke, they cost you unnecessarily already, I wouldn't give them any more of your money.

Like I've said before, this is yet another example of a poor job of troubleshooting by someone claiming to be a "tech". Sadly, this kind of lame crap happens very often too. :(

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Post subject:
Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 11:42 am
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63supro wrote:

Fact is if you buy a poorly designed, poorly constructed tube amp with cheap components like the HRD series, then the statement "if you are gigging constantly with a tube amp don't be surprised if there will be problems."
Holds true.


I could easily slam the DRRI for being a PCB based amp ie poor design choices, not as good as the originals, not handwired, needs a speaker swap right out of the box, on and on. I have an HRD III and I quite like the sounds coming out of it. It seems that in any thread where Hot Rod series amps are mentioned the DRRI devotees feel the need to swoop in and dump all over them.


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Post subject:
Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 1:06 pm
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It's not the PCB that makes it a poor amp, It's the thin, cheap board with the tube sockets mounted to it that usually causes the problems. The DRRI has its tube sockets mounted to the chassis as do all the 65 reissues. Also the board is a lot better. All new Fender amps use cheap IC caps. Illinois Capacitors are manufactured in Taiwan.

I no longer own a Deluxe Reverb. When I needed one I could easily rent one.
I don't see sites dedicated to repairing the DRRI. Speaker swaps are all a matter of taste as are tube choices. I'm not talking about tone, I'm talking about reliability. I owned, repaired over and over again and finally sold my HRDlx. I know lots of DRRI owners happy with the amps tone right out of the box. I also know some who clip the bright cap and change the speaker, but none who mod the snot out of them to try to make them sound better or make them more reliable. I am not a DRRI devotee. I'm not a devotee of any amp. Right now I like Egnater. If that amp turns on me like the HRDlx did, I will turn on it too. So far the Egnater lasted way longer than five or six gigs and longer than three months.

Some changes were made in the III series. I wish I read Justin Holton's site before I bought my HRDlx. I'm glad you like your amp, funny thing is I don't get upset if someone slams a piece of gear I own. If I like it, that's all that counts.

http://www.justinholton.com/hotrod/

I had a similar problem that is shown in the second photo here.
http://www.tjadamowicz.com/amps/convert.html

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Post subject:
Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 1:24 pm
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63supro wrote:
I had a similar problem that is shown in the second photo here.
http://www.tjadamowicz.com/amps/convert.html


Now that's what I call a crispy critter!

:mrgreen:

Arjay

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Post subject:
Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 1:37 pm
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icke2433, If one tube lights and one doesn't and the socket is still dead after you swap the power tubes with each other, I'd look for cold/fractured solder joints where the sockets mount to the board among other things. That's where all my problems started. I wouldn't play it. It will sound like arse anyway with one power tube. Think of your car running on only half its cylinders. :wink:

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