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Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 12:26 pm
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vinscag wrote:
I just hope Jody realizes that particle board is a bear to work with.
He's got to measure twice!


It's why I recommended an all-new build using pine plank (the way Leo would've done it). Those MDF cabs are half-again as heavy as they need to be.

Arjay

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Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 4:17 pm
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If and when I do this I will start from scratch and not cut the cab. I may want to put the amp back in the cab one day or sell it, who knows. Worst case, what I build may look like crap, but it will fit my needs.


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Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 5:23 pm
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Why has NOBODY mentioned theFender SuperSonic head?
Thats a mighty fine amp head if you ask me

http://www.fender.com/products/search.p ... 2160100410

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Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 5:46 pm
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Big The Cat wrote:
Why has NOBODY mentioned theFender SuperSonic head?
Thats a mighty fine amp head if you ask me

http://www.fender.com/products/search.p ... 2160100410


Perhaps you missed my initial response (the first to the O/P)......

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Posted: 24 Oct 2010 15:38 Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

You play only through a Vibratone cab?

Interesting......

Try the VM Bandmaster or Supersonic head.

Best of luck, HTH

Arjay
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Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 9:56 am
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Like I said, I'd pass on the Bandmaster VM. The DSP effects are awful and it sounds soulless and cheesy. YMMV

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Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 4:22 pm
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Retroverbial wrote:
Perhaps you missed my initial response (the first to the O/P)......


Touché Arjay, Touché
:)

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Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:47 am
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Jody,
If you're planning on using particle board, don't.
Why? Sawdust boards can fall apart when you least expect it.
Imagine carrying your amp and the sides and bottom drop out from
beneath the top due to poor joinery.

IF you don't plan to use solid wood lumber or 11/13 ply Baltic Birch plywood, Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) would be a far far better choice of material than sawdust/particle board.

More exotic approaches
Machined Plexiglas Plate.
Stainless or aluminum rackspace chassis case.

4U or 5U 19" Rack Space
Not sure, but in order to modify the oversize Hot Rod DeVille, Deluxe,
etc chassis to actually fit in a standard 19" rack, the chassis sheet metal outer end edges would need to be trimmed shorter. If I am correct, you would need cut at least 4.5" This is a permanent modification.
Another problem here is that such a modification would require that you disassemble the electronics from the chassis as the grinding required would induce vibrations that may damage sensitive components. Also,
the risk of damage to the electronics by errant die grinder mishandling could make for a bad day.
IMHO, it would be far better IF there had been a simple rackspace conversion chassis that customers could buy and swap over components.
Of course not every fender amp would be easy to do because of excess faceplate width issues.
I am sure it could be done with a bit of determination and compromises.
Imagine multiple Fender (or X brand) Amp rack cabinet filled with all those amps in a convenient studio setting.


Last edited by Twinhit on Thu Oct 28, 2010 3:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 1:16 pm
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MDF isn't a whole lot better. It's just a cheap substandard way out. You're always better with something solid or Baltic Birch Plywood.

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Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 3:08 pm
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63supro wrote:
MDF isn't a whole lot better. It's just a cheap substandard way out. You're always better with something solid or Baltic Birch Plywood.


Indeed.

That's one of the reasons why most of the amps Leo designed and built fifty or sixty years ago are still earning their keep while the first of the particle-board POS's from the '80s have already found homes in landfills.

Give me solid pine or give me death!

:mrgreen:

Arjay

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Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 3:40 pm
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63supro wrote:
MDF isn't a whole lot better. It's just a cheap substandard way out. You're always better with something solid or Baltic Birch Plywood.


Twinhit, that SohB wrote:
IF you don't plan to use solid wood lumber or 11/13 ply Baltic Birch plywood, Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) would be a far far better choice of material than sawdust/particle board.


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Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 3:42 pm
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Retroverbial wrote:
63supro wrote:
MDF isn't a whole lot better. It's just a cheap substandard way out. You're always better with something solid or Baltic Birch Plywood.


Indeed.

That's one of the reasons why most of the amps Leo designed and built fifty or sixty years ago are still earning their keep while the first of the particle-board POS's from the '80s have already found homes in landfills.

Give me solid pine or give me death!

:mrgreen:

Arjay


Twinhit, that SohB wrote:
IF you don't plan to use solid wood lumber or 11/13 ply Baltic Birch plywood, Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) would be a far far better choice of material than sawdust/particle board.


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Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 3:58 pm
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supro and retro.....

We are talking about a head cab - not a combo.
I agree, solid wood is tops, but MDF isn't that bad for this application also..... the reason I pointed it out was merely an alternative.
The DeVille chassis plus tubes (from top to bottom of tube bottle) is probably a greater dimension than standard stock 1x12, and if so, in which case, jody will have to join two solid wood boards along their length to get the minimum width required as part of the carcase building process.
Not a big deal but then more work of course.

Also, I've wondered about finger-joints as a joining method for amp head and combo cab and external speaker cabs.
I'd go dovetail joint instead of a finger joint. It's just a stronger joint and less likely to slip apart due to the weight. unless of course the strongest side of the of dovetail favors the carcase on the sides rather than the top.


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Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 4:38 pm
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Twinhit wrote:
I agree, solid wood is tops, but MDF isn't that bad for this application also.....


I build chit to last. And what I build is virtually indistinguishable from the real McCoy.

You may do whatever you wish, of course.

Arjay

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Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 5:08 pm
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Retroverbial wrote:
Twinhit wrote:
I agree, solid wood is tops, but MDF isn't that bad for this application also.....


I build chit to last. And what I build is virtually indistinguishable from the real McCoy.

You may do whatever you wish, of course.

Arjay


RJ,
Think for a moment, if jody is considering building his own head cab, then
we may want to consider what may help keep his costs down and be a doable approach.

AGAIN..... I would recommend solid wood too but he may not have a joiner or dovetail jig big enough to accomodate the larger dimensioned stock.
Remember it's easy to tell someone else what they can do not knowing what tools they do have because those of us that do have the tools tend to forget that others don't.

Jody, if you don't have some wood working tools, you can expect to pay a few bucks more collecting tools, replacing goofed stock than if you have someone else to do it and know what they are doing.
There are a couple of places online that advertise replacement cabs and can build you a custom amp head cab.
Maybe RJ would be more than happy to build you a cab that lasts, and I think he could. I could too, but I am way too busy at the moment and am in the process of moving my shop to another location due to imminent domain actions on the part of my wonderful town's city council.
:roll:


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Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 5:50 pm
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Twinhit wrote:
I could too, but I am way too busy at the moment and am in the process of moving my shop to another location due to imminent domain actions on the part of my wonderful town's city council.
:roll:


Bummer!

My condolences.

Arjay

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