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Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 12:21 pm
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BMW-KTM wrote:
Perhaps I didn't read the article in as much depth as I should have. I didn't notice they were changing the nature of the amp's circuits. In that case it's not really rebuilding the amp more solidly because it's not really a Blues Deluxe anymore.


Correct.

BMW-KTM wrote:
It's more like a salvage job to build a kit amp based on a different curcuit design for a little less money.


Precisely.

BMW-KTM wrote:
Actually given the cost of the donor amp and the cost of purchasing replacement components you have to wonder about the cost effectiveness of it all anyway. Is it really worth it? Does it really give you the best bang for the buck?


Only one's conscience and checkbook can determine that.

BMW-KTM wrote:
Is the end product any better than building a kit amp?


Probably about the same, assuming competent wiring and assembly skills.

BMW-KTM wrote:
Is it even as good let alone better?


If T.J. builds it, it's a quality product.

BMW-KTM wrote:
I think I still wouldn't take on such a project as I would rather just build a proper kit from the ground up.


That's certainly understandable. But this is a great way to recycle otherwise perfectly usable components and thus save some money. These rebuilds aren't for everyone. But they're very popular as T.J. has turned over two dozen of these "sow's ears" into "silk purses".

Arjay

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Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 3:55 pm
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To educate you a little further BMW, this amp is a '95 and has had several repairs. Those 5 watt ceramic resisters will burn the board eventually and will need replaced. The worst thing to break on this amp was the flex cable between the first preamp tube. The cheap pc board will only take a repair once before the traces peel up. A couple of traces broke, but I managed to get the solder joint to last for 2 years. They recently broke again. Done deal for me. The total cost for the parts to do this is around $100 (I had the orange drop caps) without a faceplate, which I might do later along with a speaker. I keep the amps I purchase, so I'm not going to unload it on somebody, but I am going to address its problems. I'll keep the Blues Deluxe pc boards, which I'll probably end up repairing with plugable flex cables and perminant sockets on the board if I feel like it. But I sure won't miss it. I'll let you know how it sounds by posting a riff or two. The real talent, which I'll find out if I have, is how you lay it out to look nice and sound good without hum. Being an electronics tech doesn't guarantee you good results. I just hope I can get it to look as nice as a Green Eagle conversion.


Last edited by rjake on Fri Oct 22, 2010 3:54 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 3:51 pm
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Too late to turn back now! The beginning of something good I hope.

Image

Layout should look something like this.

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Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 1:44 pm
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Turrets installed on G10 board.

Image

Sockets installed. (Tube socket pin bending tool)

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Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 4:56 pm
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Looking swell thus far, rjake!

Arjay

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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 9:51 am
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Thanks Arjay. I've got the board mounted with 5 screws. I decided to drill the chassis for that. I'm still thinking about installing the Weber copper cap. Have you or anybody else ever used them?

I'm waiting on the next batch of parts for the stuffing the board. This is as far as I can go this weekend.

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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:55 pm
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Just a couple of thoughts, Rjake. Have you considered populating the board outside of the chassis ? Thought being, that any twisting and soldering of these components or wiring may be more accessible on the bench. You know what I mean ? Some of the leads for the tube sockets, pots, and grounds may be wrapped, while the components are top-mounted. As for the Weber CC, I've heard mixed reviews about it's realiability, but mostly positive. With the module unit, any repairs should be a snap. I've been meaning to get one as a backup for my GZ34. I sure like TJ's filament wiring, ala Hi Watt-Marshall. Look forward to your experience and progress ! Art

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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 9:23 pm
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Thats an affirmative Art. I just put it in there for the picture. I agree. It's much easier to build the board out of the chassis than in it.

I'm looking at the WBR Weber Copper Cap. I figure that would do the trick. Depending on the size, I would think it would be better to go inside the chassis instead of outside, unless there is a thermal issue.


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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 9:29 pm
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rjake wrote:
I would think it would be better to go inside the chassis instead of outside, unless there is a thermal issue.


That would be my primary concern as well, although diode-rectified vintage Fenders all have their arrays mounted within the chassis with no apparent ill effects even after decades of service.

JMO

Arjay

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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 10:13 pm
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After reading the Weber website section of the Copper Caps, it appears there is some heat developed within the tube shaped devices. There isn't a whole lot of info on the modules. There is a picture of one that is mounted to a Fender amp.

http://www.webervst.com/ccap_module.jpg


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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 10:39 pm
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OOPS, my bad ! You know what you're doing ! The rectifier is your call, of course, but I'd go for an external mount. Any possible cooling, for any component is good in my book. But Arjay is right, the diodes are way over the operating ratings, they are just ticking over looking for something else to do. The power resistors would be my only concern. And now that I think about it(a dangerous thing), that cover wouldn't afford much ventlilation, would it ? Art

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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 10:58 pm
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I concur, Art. I think the external mount favors the installation in this case. Ambient air has to be cooler than that trapped within the confines of the chassis proper.

As a side note, it seems to me I read somewhere (possibly on this very forum) about installing a RC buffering circuit between the on/off switch and the Weber copper cap to prevent the module from immediately receiving the full AC line current upon start-up to extend the life of the device.

Or am I experiencing another "senior moment"......?

:mrgreen:

Arjay (often diagnosed by the spousal unit as suffering from "CRS syndrome")

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Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 10:33 pm
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Arjay, don't know what CRS is, but I probably have a double dose case. My guess is that slowing the inrush to this unit wouldn't matter too much. From what I've learned the rectifier is made up of two diodes & two wire wound resistors(watts ?) & a thermistor. If this were my rectifier, I'd like to know about the resistor's wattage. I'm thinging for a 4X diode bridge a 100ohm/25watt would be the minimum, suspended with plenty of air, or even a heatsink. Rjake, I don't want to add more work to the build, but maybe you can make your own rectifier board using a couple of hexfreds and a 100ohm resistor(for sag), that would be more reliable than the pre made unit. Just another idea. Art

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Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 10:46 pm
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"CRS" = can't remember _hit.

A chronic condition periodically mis-diagnosed and closely related to "DKS".

(she often alleges I suffer from that as well)

:mrgreen:

Arjay

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Post subject:
Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 4:37 am
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Thanks Art. I was thinking about the rectifier thing myself. The board is almost done. I'll post pics later. Suggestions on a Bridge 4 diode or a fullwave 2 diode?


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