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Post subject: Mounting a four hole speaker to an eight screw enclosure.
Posted: Sat Oct 09, 2010 6:11 pm
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I want to swap out my Eminence for fender 12" speakers on my twin with G12-80 rola celestion speakers but I noticed that the celestion speakers only have 4 holes. The twin reverb speaker mount contains 8 screws. Is it common and has anyone here ever drilled the exrta holes onto speakers to accomodate it for the 8 screw type mounts?

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Posted: Sat Oct 09, 2010 7:58 pm
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I would not advise drilling the speaker frame. Rather, the screws in the baffle board can be carefully removed. Usually, a reasonably light tap with a ball-peen hammer will loosen the screws enough to start turning them. Protect the grill cloth with a thin piece of plastic or your fingers and unscrew the four mounting screws. The idea is to take care of the grill cloth and the baffle board, when backing out the screws Art

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Posted: Sat Oct 09, 2010 8:32 pm
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Art,
Thanks for the quick response. I'll give that a shot.
I was a/b'ing the celestions with the stock eminence speakers and boy have I been missing out. The stock speakers sound shrill compared to the celestions. I should have done this a long time ago. Better late than never. :wink:

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Posted: Sat Oct 09, 2010 9:48 pm
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323, I put a V30 Celestion in my Band Master cab to run with a Weber California quite a few years ago. Still kickin' out good tones. You might want to get Arjay's advise, before messing with your Twin. He might have a better way of dealing with the situation. Art

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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 1:37 am
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More info regarding your specific amp would help but here are some tips......

Most modern Fender amps utilize a glue-in baffle with a separate grill frame attached via velcro strips. This encompasses the "Twin" amp, the "Evil Twin", and the "The Twin" (the Department of Redundancy Department named that one!). Likewise, this roster also includes vintage silverface Twin Reverbs built after 1970. If yours is one of these you can remove the grille frame by using the handle end of a plastic rat-tail comb as a non-invasive lever to gently pry one edge of the frame loose from the baffle board. Further wiggling will free the frame entirely. Then use the appropriate implements of destruction to remove the offending hardware. Install your Rolas, re-affix your grill frame to the baffle board, and you're off to the races.

Vintage blackfaces, pre-1971 silverfaces, and the blackface re-issues are configured with a screw-in baffle board and the grille cloth stapled to it. The cloth is possessed with some elasticity and it is possible to remove unwanted speaker-mounting hardware with the cloth in place. It will stretch to the extent necessary to allow clearance to get a hand between the cloth and the front of the baffle board when removing screws or T-nuts but exercise extreme caution when doing so, especially with older amps where the cloth may have dessicated completely and become brittle. In those instances the baffle board should be removed from the cabinet altogether and the cloth unstapled to permit access to the front.

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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 1:50 am
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(addendum)

As to drilling extra mounting holes into a loudspeaker's frame, that is a FOOL'S ERRAND.

If any metal fragments or tailings end up within the suspension system and find their way into the magnet gap, that speaker is toast!

Period, end of story, nothing follows.

Arjay

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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 9:09 am
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I recently went through the same thing with the DRRI, trying to mount a Celestion Gold with 4 holes only... not to risk damaging the speaker I decided to remove 4 screws instead, wasn't easy, 2 of them were too long (top and bottom of baffle) and couldn't get them out so I ended up cutting the screws to make 'em shorter and removed them. Good luck!


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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 10:29 am
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Great advice from all of you. Thanks again. I'm dealing with a TRRI so I'm gonna try to carefully remove the screws without damaging the cloth. And if its too long, I'll cut someof the screw off. No way I'm gonna drill into that speaker frame after what I learned here today. Thanks again.

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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 10:34 am
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If/when cutting any screws, be sure to clean up all of the shavings and tailings -- don't let them fall onto or into the amp chassis or the reverb tank either.

Best of luck, HTH

Arjay

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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 10:49 am
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Agree with Arjay, that baffle better be out of the amp before attempting to cut anything!

Oh wait this is not a DRRI, so I'm not sure if you can even remove the baffle to work on it...


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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 7:15 pm
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Good advice ! Guess I would pull the chassis and reverb tank, and have at it that way. but you're probably done by now. Be careful if you're soldering on the speaker cable. I use a heavy aluminum foil material around the tag board, that can be formed to direct any solder spattering away from the speaker cone and frame. Let us know how the amp sounds, when you're done, OK ? Art

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Post subject: Installed G12-80 Rola Celestion speakers in TRRI
Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 7:45 pm
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Well, finished it up this afternoon and couldn't have done it without everyones help here. I ended up using a rotozip to cut down four of each speakers screw to half the size to be able to remove them. Had to do this cause they were just too long and I couldn't get them out without damaging the grill cloth. I also wired in a new jack and soldered the wires directly to the celestion G12-80 speakers. It was more work than I expected but well worth it.
The speakers sound amazing, a hell of alot warmer than the stock speakers. No more piercing highs, and the speaker breakup that was inherent with the eminence for fender speakers is all but a memory. These speakers have a very smooth rounded top end that still retains some brilliance but not overbearing, lows are very pronounced and tight. Mids, well they are celestion speakers so it goes without saying. I really like the tone of these speakers and I'm glad I didn't spend the $210 on Weber Chicago speakers that I was contemplating on getting, not that the webers are bad, just that I saved a whole lotta cash by using speaker that were just sitting around in an unused cab.
For everyone who has a TRRI and would like some advice on getting rid of that "ice Pick" sound, you might want to try new speakers.
I put the eminece for fender speakers in the closed back cab that the celestions were in to see how it affects their tone. I'll have to get back to you guys on that one cause right now i'm not playing anything but my TRRI. :lol:

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Post subject: Re: Mounting a four hole speaker to an eight screw enclosure
Posted: Thu May 19, 2011 9:05 pm
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I had to do something kind of radical on my Blonde 65 Twin Reissue ... those danged wood screws would not back out for a million bucks, so I got a good grip on them and broke every other one of 'em off flush with the back side of the panel. Now it takes a four screw speaker! What a PAIN just to replace the speakers. I popped in a couple of Celestion G12-80 Classic Lead speakers I had standing by, and it sounds like a million bucks. Brittleness be gone.


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Post subject: Re: Mounting a four hole speaker to an eight screw enclosure
Posted: Thu May 19, 2011 10:27 pm
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news Brian, but the reason you couldn't "back out" those screws is because Fender's speaker studs use a partial reverse-threaded shank at the head to prevent it from inadvertently loosening due to sonic vibrations when the speaker is sonically-coupled to the baffle board......

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You were turning them the wrong way.

Arjay

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Post subject: Re: Mounting a four hole speaker to an eight screw enclosure
Posted: Fri May 20, 2011 2:04 pm
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This thread is kinda funny to me, I find the eminence in my TRRI very warm and they sound very nice.
I know Ice pick when I hear it, I had a Super-Sonic (original) with the vintage 30 in it, felt like a spike through the brain !
Just lucky ?

I'm playing a strat with vintage full of 60 cycle hum pickups and a p-90 guitar so you would think if the ice pick were there I would know it.

Very strange !!!

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