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Post subject: BJr III
Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 2:49 pm
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63supro wrote:
Because it's annoying and stupid....Looking back, it looks like you're the one who started it LOL.


Sorry. I'll try to start calling them "the original", "BJr III", and "the different one in between." "Black panel" is a pretty good idea, but we already have the BJr III for that one. And there are two models with the chrome panel, maybe Chrome US and Chrome Mex. Of course my inferior intellect lead me to conclude that there have been 3 distinctly different versions of the BJr, and that I, II and III were natural choices to easily tell which one it is.

63supro wrote:
Silverface has been called that ever since they changed to a silver panel...


Exactly, that is the same thing that I'm talking about with the BJr, there was no reference to a I or II until the III came out. There was no reference to a Blackface until the Silverface came out. :)

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Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 2:57 pm
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So what does that have to do with giving everything a number that never had one in the first place?? It's just plain stupid. Like I said in another post. The III means how many times it gets repaired before you get smart and sell it. That would have made my HRDlx a VI or VII. :shock:

Billm's already developing mods for the BJr III even before the solder hardens.LOL He's an expert alright. An expert at selling mods.

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Post subject: BJr III
Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 3:26 pm
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OK, just for you, from now on, I will try to call the HRds, Chrome Panel US, Chrome Panel Mex, and Black Panel Mex. I like your "Black Panel" name, that one might stick. :)

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Post subject:
Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 6:24 pm
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63supro wrote:
The original was NEVER CALLED A VERSION 1. The III might be how many times it goes into the shop before you finally get smart and sell it.:D

Johnny Z sweet amp. A friend of mine has a Reverend guitar, can't remember the model, I get to play it once in a while. It's a really nice playing and sounding guitar. I wish Reverend still made amps.


The Reverend HH is a great amp, maybe even better than the Kingsnake. The only thing I don't like about it is they didn't put a footswitch contol for the SCHZIO. That would have made this a great amp.


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Post subject: Re: BJr III
Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 9:53 pm
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shimmilou wrote:
JohnK24 wrote:
...."expert" huh ?...well, considering he sells his mods to the blues junior, ....


:? Doesn't matter if he sells creamed corn, he is still an expert on the BJr. By your logic, don't ever buy an air conditioner from Trane, because they sell air conditioners. And don't use those recipes on soup cans, because...you guessed it, they sell soup. I also hear that Ford has car experts, but they might say anything because, yep, they sell cars. :?


Umm, I think the difference is that the individual doesn't sell amps but modifications. Besides all that anyone who bought any brand of anything is because someone was selling it.
I could be wrong, though.


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Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:45 pm
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I've read most of Bill M's mods and when I had a working BJ a few years ago I even did the Tone Stack and Adjustable Bias mod, which did help a little. He knows those amps pretty well and I have to respect his work. However, modding a Blues Jr and spending a small fortune on one to improve it, just doesn't make good sense. If they were built better and with better parts I think they would be come a true classic.

I hope Fender will make a #4 and put in quality parts, better pots, and a good (metal) input jack and improve the quality of the workmanship and return to manufacturing all their guitars and amps in America, bring the jobs home.

Now where did I put my American made chop sticks?


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Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:03 pm
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Johnny Z wrote:
I've read most of Bill M's mods and when I had a working BJ a few years ago I even did the Tone Stack and Adjustable Bias mod, which did help a little. He knows those amps pretty well and I have to respect his work. However, modding a Blues Jr and spending a small fortune on one to improve it, just doesn't make good sense. If they were built better and with better parts I think they would be come a true classic.

I hope Fender will make a #4 and put in quality parts, better pots, and a good (metal) input jack and improve the quality of the workmanship and return to manufacturing all their guitars and amps in America, bring the jobs home.

Now where did I put my American made chop sticks?



For what it's worth, if Fender did put all those better parts in it would you pay the difference?
I don't mean to sound off-key but IMHO, that the Blues Jr. has seen a lot of mods packaged for it would tell me that it's a pretty classic.
Reminds me of a hot rod Ford and a two dollar bill.
Hot Rods can be known to run hot.
I think about the problems that the HRD's have in the way of solder points.
When not build an outboard box to mount the tubes sockets on away from the circuit board? Would supro think this would help? I don't know.


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Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 11:42 am
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Mounting the tube sockets to the chassis would be the best option. Getting the 5 watt resistors 1/4" off the board or heat sinking them would be a good option too. The amp does have potential.

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Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 12:55 pm
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63supro wrote:
Mounting the tube sockets to the chassis would be the best option. Getting the 5 watt resistors 1/4" off the board or heat sinking them would be a good option too. The amp does have potential.


I don't know the Blues Jr setup personally, but in terms of the BDRI,
I had this idea of moving the tube sockets off the board and onto the chassis using chassis mount sockets and jumper wires.
What do you think?
I don't who else may have noticed, but the tubes are almost always BENEATH the circuit and components on a fender. Heat rises and chassis
mounted sockets allow the chassis to shield the circuit board from the heat.
IF the tubes were inverted 180 deg. the radiating heat off the bulbs would
go up and away from the circuit's vulnerable components (caps resistors etc)
Simple test would be to flip a BDRI (or similar design) upside down and take measurments with an infrared thermometer. and compare with temperatures in the normal upright position. I bet there is a night and day difference.

Another point to ponder is that the electronics inside the chassis have no means to dissipate the heat. The tubes are like fire and the CLOSED chassis makes for a perfect oven. WHY fender hasn't considered vents in the back panel to allow the heat to escape is beyond me. I bet it would alleviate the thermal temperatures greatly.
I mean that chrome control panel is HOT after awhile.


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Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 1:09 pm
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The chassis usually acts like a heat sink. Catching the heat before it damages the components. The chassis is thin and cheap on the HRD series. I thought about moving to chassis mounted tube sockets, but after seeing the way the amp was constructed and how cheap the components were, I decided to dump the amp because it was giving me so many problems. Also the boards were cheap, thin, single sided boards and I didn't want to have the hassle of repairing possible lifted traces on the board. I sold mine while it still had some warranty left.

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Post subject: BJr III
Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 1:14 pm
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Chassis mounted tube sockets would be nice. The 5-watt resistors are off of the board. Completely off the board. So far off of the board that they never were even on the board. There are no 5-watt resistors in the BJr. :idea:

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Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 1:30 pm
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Oh yeah, If you reread the post, Twinhit asked about the Blues Deluxe not the BJ jr. (Pun intended) where R84 and 85 are 5 watt resistors. :wink: :idea: :idea: :?

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Post subject:
Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 1:45 pm
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63supro wrote:
The chassis usually acts like a heat sink. Catching the heat before it damages the components. The chassis is thin and cheap on the HRD series. I thought about moving to chassis mounted tube sockets, but after seeing the way the amp was constructed and how cheap the components were, I decided to dump the amp because it was giving me so many problems. Also the boards were cheap, thin, single sided boards and I didn't want to have the hassle of repairing possible lifted traces on the board. I sold mine while it still had some warranty left.


Ok,
I know that while the components are cheap, I also know they can be replaced. Indeed the chassis IS thin sheetmetal.

I invision a machined finned aluminum heatsink mounted on brass standoffs which are screwed into the bottom the chassis. The sockets are then screwed into the heatsink. leads would be soldered their respective
terminals on the socket while the opposite end are terminated to a socket plug which may have to be fabricated if no such plug exists.
Keep in mind that while the circuits are similar the Hot Rod Deluxe may have run hotter than the BDRI.
http://www.turretboards.com/tube_sockets.htm

Keep in mind this would be a retrofit kit that I think would be best performed by experienced amp repair techs as precision alignment for drilling and complete disassembly would likely be required.

Also, Replacement back panel that has been modified with vent ports would be an additional consideration.

I've also wondered if there couldn't be a hybrid (if not 100%) PTP version of the BDRI couldn't be had that would indeed make for an entirely different animal of an amp.


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Post subject:
Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 1:52 pm
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This is the only way to fix a Hot Rod series amp.
http://www.tjadamowicz.com/amps/convert.html

If anyone thinks Billm is some sort amp guru, TJ is the master!

My Egnater Rebel 20 is constructed light years ahead of any HRD amp. It has heat sinks where needed, no ribbon connectors decent parts at a decent price. Did I mention it's also a tone monster. I can get most of the tones I have in my head with it without pedals.

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Post subject:
Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 2:03 pm
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63supro wrote:
This is the only way to fix a Hot Rod series amp.
http://www.tjadamowicz.com/amps/convert.html

If anyone thinks Billm is some sort amp guru, TJ is the master!


PREACH IT BRUTHA!

Arjay

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