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Post subject: ROC PRO 1000 Combo No Sound
Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 9:35 pm
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I just got a ROC PRO 1000 Combo and the first day it played great. The next morning it doesn't work. It is getting power and I can tell that the speakers are receiving because when I press the power switch on it has a quite pop sound through the speaker (1x12). The tube to the pre-amp has a very slight glow and has a blackened look at the top of the tube. I don't know if this is normal or even if this tube has any affect on the "clean" setting. The one 4A 250v fuse looks good. The input jack looks to be seated well. Is there a way to test the input jack or by-pass it or is there anything else that I should try?


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Post subject: Re: ROC PRO 1000 Combo No Sound
Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:42 pm
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treblot wrote:
I just got a ROC PRO 1000 Combo and the first day it played great. The next morning it doesn't work. It is getting power and I can tell that the speakers are receiving because when I press the power switch on it has a quite pop sound through the speaker (1x12). The tube to the pre-amp has a very slight glow and has a blackened look at the top of the tube. I don't know if this is normal or even if this tube has any affect on the "clean" setting. The one 4A 250v fuse looks good. The yellow or green gain light stays on even when the buttoms is pressed and it should be red. But again I don't know if this matters because the drive select switch will by-pass this I think. The input jack looks to be seated well. Is there a way to test the input jack or by-pass it or is there anything else that I should try? Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.


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Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 7:21 am
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Here is the link to the schematic:

http://support.fender.com/schematics/gu ... ic_B12.pdf

I think you can test to identify if the problem is in the pream or amp:

Connect your guitar on "return" of the serial loop effect and let us know.

If you have technical skills and voltmeter, you can check +/-40V and +/-16V DC supply.

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Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 8:28 am
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Thank you. No sound from the "return" of the serial loop effect. If you could direct me to where the contacts are for the DC I will check it.


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Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 1:46 pm
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TP23 +40V, TP24 +16V
TP26 -40V, TP27 -16V

Please download the schematic, the second page is the PCB layout.

In the middle you will identify TPs, The gound (black wire of the voltmeter) has to be connected on the chassis for instance gnd of jack input.

Let me know.

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Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 4:15 pm
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I'm sorry that it took so long. I had to go to a wedding. The readings were

TP 23=+38, TP 24=+17
TP 24 = -39, TP 27=-17

I tinkered with it a bit retaking the readings and turned away and it slowly over about 3-4 seconds started working again. The first time in 2 days. About 4-5 minutes later I heard a quiet cracking in the speaker and it quit again. So I touched the multimeter prong to TP 23 and it started up again. It has a loud feedback or ringing noise when the reverb setting is on. It will start quietly and slowly get very loud. Just now I was playing in the "clean"setting and it died again. So I touched the multimeter prong to TP 23 and it started up again. It seems like it "jolts" it back into action. Then after a minute the feedbaqck came again. But this time it was in "clean" setting. What could this be?


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Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 4:57 am
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Voltages measured are correct.
I suspect bad soldering of components or worse, a track that can be broken.

If you have enough skill:
Open the chassis, have look on the back were the solderings are.
Rework all wrong solderings (often a black ring in the solder or the pin is moving through the solder joint).

(Copy this link within your browser http://www.google.fr/imgres?imgurl=http ... s%3Disch:1)

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Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 7:10 am
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Thank you very much. I will work on it later today. I don't have much experience with this but this is how I learn. It is odd how touching TP 23 jolts it back into action, and the ringing feedback made me think preamp tube may be going out. I will check the solder joints. Thank you again. You have been an enormous help.


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Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 8:04 pm
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I reworked all the soldering that looked suspicious. The four that hold the 2 tall black cylinders looked burnt or something so I cleaned them up and re soldered. The readings are still good and I don't see any broken tracks. Are there any components or resisters that I should take out and check?


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Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:10 am
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Just make sure you don't make any short circuits and let's go !

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Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:42 am
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I seems like something is going on with the input jack. No sound until I pull up on the cord jack and I have to hold it there. The soldering is solid which leads me to believe that the input is bad. I thought about switching it with one of the jacks on the back but is that possible with all of the solder involved? Is it possible to repair an input jack? Or is it possible to hard wire the cord to the board. I know I can order one from somewhere I'm sure but I bought this on ebay for $100 + $30 shipping and the seller is waiting to see if I can fix it. He said he will be open to a partial refund to avoid negative feedback. It wouldn't make sense to send it back for another $30. He bought it from a up till now reliable customer of his. Also, I get really bad and loud ringing when I switch to reverb. What do you think?


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Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 11:35 am
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These amps were discontinued about seven or eight years ago. It's possible that repair parts aren't even available anymore.

I'd send it back if that's a viable option......there are plenty of other amps available.

JMO

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Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 11:46 am
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Well I am in SC and he is in Texas so it cost $30 to send it back. He said for me to just keep and and for me to suggest an amount for a refund. I want to be fair so I told him I would see if I can fix it. I can get a jack at http://www.catalinaguitars.com/catalog2/product_info.php?cPath=66_86&products_id=370 for $7.95. But still I have the issue of the loud ringing in reverb setting.


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Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 12:07 pm
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First, repair your jack input. As Retroverbial said, it is possible to not find original parts. How ever I believe that a replacement can electricaly fit. Just take care about how the jack is mounted on the PCB because there are a lot of differents dimentions that can not fit with the PCB and the chassis.

During the delivery time of your jack, you can solder shielded wire instead of the jack input and connect with a regular jack to your guitar;

For the reverb, I dont understand the pb (my american is not enough fluent). Tell us about test you did and constatations.

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Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 12:43 pm
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Could you explain how to solder the shielded wire instead of jack input? There are two wires in the cord but 9 soldered contacts for the input jack. On the reverb problem, when I switch the amp from "clean" to "reverb", the amp will start ringing like feedback. It starts quietly and keeps getting louder until it is unbearable. Could this be a sign of the pre-amp tube going bad?


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