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Post subject: Hot Rod Deluxe Tube Replacement
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 5:41 am
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Hi there. A couple of years ago I stupidly forgot to check my volume was turned down when I switched on my 40w hot rod deluxe, resulting in a deafening squeal and subsequent pops, crackles and a generally flat tone. Is it fair to assume I have blown a tube? One of my power tubes no longer lights up. I am looking into replacing it but this is the first time I have replaced an amp tube and I am a little lost. For example, what is plate voltage? And how do I find out what my amp's plate voltage is? As far as the replacement tube goes, money is not a problem since tubes last a fair while, I just want my amp to sound as good as possible. Are there any other ways I can tweak it to get the broadest, most natural and dynamic signal possible?


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Post subject: 6L6GC replacement
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 5:58 am
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May want to think about the 6P3S-E coin-based tube. I've used them in older 6L6GC Fender amps with good tone, life, results. I bias them slightly less hot than standard 6L6GC. But, you can bias them to same value. Fine tune to tone, as usual. I get them from ($26.50 per matched pair):

http://pages.prodigy.net/jimmcshane/tubes.htm


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Post subject:
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 6:04 am
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I'll look into that. Is there much to choose between brands/nationalities? I'm on the lookout for warmth, depth, solidity, naturalness etc. Also does the choice of tube affect the feedback gained from the amp, or is that purely in the choice of pickups? (NB I like and desire feedback.)


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Post subject:
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 6:25 am
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Go to www.eurotubes.com get a set of JJ's, bias around 80-85mv and you'll be all set. Eurotubes has complete retube packages for the HRDlx for different playing styles. I used Blues Option #1. It was as good as I ever got out of my HRDlx.

Here is a how to biasing video for your amp.
http://www.eurotubes.com/euro-Fender-HRDV.htm

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Post subject: Best 6P3S-E (or 6N3C-E)
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 8:33 am
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In my experince are the coin-based ones made in the 1970-80's. They have a warmer tone than the 1990's made Svetlana 6L6GC or black plate RCA 6L6GC. Clean highs. Pretty good bass. Very dependable if you buy from someone who tests them not only for matching, but for quietness and any gas issues.

Jim McShane is pretty good to work with. And his prices are very fair. Email him about availability and any other issues you may have with the tubes.


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Post subject: Tube replacement
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 4:44 pm
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I don't know the odds, but you should at least remove the back panel and check the circuit boards/resistors to see if there is any other damage before you put in your new tubes. Unplug from electricity first, of course.


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Post subject:
Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 1:33 am
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Good thinking Shimmilou. Any idea what I'm looking for? Quite obvious burns and blackened bits of circuitry, or something more subtle? It still does make a sound and to the layman would even sound fine, so I doubt there's any serious damage. There wasn't any smoke or anything! But you're right, it's best to check.


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Post subject:
Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 5:13 am
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First be sure the amp is off and unplugged. You'll see two large rectangular stone/ceramic looking 5 watt resistors next to each other on the board, look for heat damage there. Also look for bad solder joints where the power tube sockets mount to the board. Use a magnifier glass and gently wiggle the power tubes. If you see the solder joints lift off the board or show cracks when you wiggle them, they'll need to be re-soldered. That's a good place to start.

Also look at the capacitors, the large cylindrical components. If any of the cans are leaking or burnt, they'll need to be replaced.

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