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Post subject: Need help with tube replacement on my HRD
Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 1:11 pm
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I just bought a used Hot Rod Deluxe(My first all tube amp) and I am exeriencing a rattle issue when playing,more noticable using my OD pedal or the amps OD. I was told this might be tube(s) going out. I really love the sound from this amp and want to fix the problem. :cry:

If it is the tube(s), can I replace the tube(s) myself,or is this not recommended?

And if I can, how do I do it,if possible I would like to learn how,to save me some $$. :wink:


Any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance


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Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 4:42 pm
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Yes you can replace the tubes yourself if you are careful, and you should be able to troubleshoot your rattling and find which tube/s to replace too.

1. I'd recommend removing the top panel on the back of your amp so you can see what you're doing better. You don't really need to do this for access, but you want to see that you're putting tubes in the right way. Get a lamp over the back of the amp too if you can.

2. You'll see two large tubes - the 6L6 power tubes, and a row of three pre-amp tubes with little metal cans sheilding them. These are a twist-bayonet type, have a look at where they connect then just turn them a little and push up then pull them off so the tubes are exposed. These are your 12AX7 Pre-amp tubes.

3. Now turn your amp on and turn the volumes up to a decent level, without your guitar plugged in.

4. With a plastic pen give each tube a few solid taps on the side of the bottle. You're trying to find the one that's rattling, it should make the same noise for your pen. Tap each pre and power tube to check. If you don't get a clear rattle from one of them then switch the amp to the drive channel and repeat the process, then switch to 'more' drive and do it again. If this didn't work turn the volume up more and try again. Hopefully this will show you which tube is due to be replaced. If it's one of the larger power tubes you'll need to replace both because they work as a pair. If it's one of the pre-amp tubes you can just replace that tube.

5. Buy a replacement tube from a reliable source.

6. With the amp turned off and cooled down pull out the rattling tube. This may seem harder than expected, they should be fairly tight in the base. Pull the tube firmly but slowly, and you can rock it a little side to side, or in a circular motion, to help release it. Once it's out have a look at the pins on the tube, notice there's a gap with no pin. Look inside the amp at the base it came out of and see the gap there too.

7. Gently replace the new tube into the base being careful to line the pins up so the gap is in the right place and none of the legs get bent. Wipe the tube with a soft dry cloth to get your finger 'grease' off it, as this can attract electron build up and shorten the life of the tube. (that's being super picky, nobody does that, but it's recommended by some tube specialists so why not?)

8. Replace the sheilding caps over your pre tubes, screw the back on your amp and rock!

Of course, if you want to spend the bucks you could replace all the tubes while you're at it. It's like getting a new amp, and you could see what's around and select some nice tubes - they all sound different. Most players agree the tubes those amps come with new are average to crap, so it wont hurt to re-tube. But if you're on a budget just do what you need. Also if you are replacing the Power tubes, the pair of 6L6s, it's always a good idea to replace the phase inverter, which is the third tube from the right, looking at the back. This little baby works hard with the power tubes and should have a similar life expectancy.

You can see this isn't hard to do, it gives you some confidence and control over your own sound, it's easy maintenance you can do yourself and save money. You can now start carrying spare tubes, a pair of 6L6s and a spare 12AX7, and if one dies on you at a gig you know how to change it out on the fly. Put some fuses in your spares too - you'll never regret spending that 2 bucks!
Cheers, and rock on!


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Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 5:22 pm
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nickbeatnik wrote:
Yes you can replace the tubes yourself if you are careful, and you should be able to troubleshoot your rattling and find which tube/s to replace too.

1. I'd recommend removing the top panel on the back of your amp so you can see what you're doing better. You don't really need to do this for access, but you want to see that you're putting tubes in the right way. Get a lamp over the back of the amp too if you can.

2. You'll see two large tubes - the 6L6 power tubes, and a row of three pre-amp tubes with little metal cans sheilding them. These are a twist-bayonet type, have a look at where they connect then just turn them a little and push up then pull them off so the tubes are exposed. These are your 12AX7 Pre-amp tubes.

3. Now turn your amp on and turn the volumes up to a decent level, without your guitar plugged in.

4. With a plastic pen give each tube a few solid taps on the side of the bottle. You're trying to find the one that's rattling, it should make the same noise for your pen. Tap each pre and power tube to check. If you don't get a clear rattle from one of them then switch the amp to the drive channel and repeat the process, then switch to 'more' drive and do it again. If this didn't work turn the volume up more and try again. Hopefully this will show you which tube is due to be replaced. If it's one of the larger power tubes you'll need to replace both because they work as a pair. If it's one of the pre-amp tubes you can just replace that tube.

5. Buy a replacement tube from a reliable source.

6. With the amp turned off and cooled down pull out the rattling tube. This may seem harder than expected, they should be fairly tight in the base. Pull the tube firmly but slowly, and you can rock it a little side to side, or in a circular motion, to help release it. Once it's out have a look at the pins on the tube, notice there's a gap with no pin. Look inside the amp at the base it came out of and see the gap there too.

7. Gently replace the new tube into the base being careful to line the pins up so the gap is in the right place and none of the legs get bent. Wipe the tube with a soft dry cloth to get your finger 'grease' off it, as this can attract electron build up and shorten the life of the tube. (that's being super picky, nobody does that, but it's recommended by some tube specialists so why not?)

8. Replace the sheilding caps over your pre tubes, screw the back on your amp and rock!

Of course, if you want to spend the bucks you could replace all the tubes while you're at it. It's like getting a new amp, and you could see what's around and select some nice tubes - they all sound different. Most players agree the tubes those amps come with new are average to crap, so it wont hurt to re-tube. But if you're on a budget just do what you need. Also if you are replacing the Power tubes, the pair of 6L6s, it's always a good idea to replace the phase inverter, which is the third tube from the right, looking at the back. This little baby works hard with the power tubes and should have a similar life expectancy.

You can see this isn't hard to do, it gives you some confidence and control over your own sound, it's easy maintenance you can do yourself and save money. You can now start carrying spare tubes, a pair of 6L6s and a spare 12AX7, and if one dies on you at a gig you know how to change it out on the fly. Put some fuses in your spares too - you'll never regret spending that 2 bucks!
Cheers, and rock on!




nick, Thanks a million my friend! This will get me on my way,I greatly appreciate it!


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Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 6:01 pm
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No worries. If we share the knowlege we all get smarter!


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Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 6:19 pm
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Pull out the GT's, book a cruise, throw them overboard.

Use JJ's for this amp and bias hot for best results.

CC

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Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 9:48 am
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Celtic Cyclonus wrote:
Pull out the GT's, book a cruise, throw them overboard.

Use JJ's for this amp and bias hot for best results.

CC



Thanks Celtic, I will take your advise and buy JJ's. As far as going on a cruise to dispose of the GT's.....I'll just toss them in the trash,much cheaper that way......LOL.

Thanks again....Peace

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Post subject:
Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 10:06 am
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Celtic Cyclonus wrote:
Pull out the GT's, book a cruise, throw them overboard.

Use JJ's for this amp and bias hot for best results.

CC


Yep +1. My HRDlx had cheap arse foam on the preamp tubes, no shields. Did they change them?


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Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 3:55 pm
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oh yeah you're right - crappy foam, not shielding cans. my bad - i've just been re-tubing a friend's 59 Bassman reissue so I was seeing cans everywhere! I don't own a Hot Rod... but a guy I play with does and I've played it a bit, and changed his tubes too. I'd never buy one - I'm quite happy with my Vibroverb 8)

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Post subject:
Posted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 8:19 pm
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+3 on JJs. Sweet and musical sounding tubes all round. Didn't they buy the Tesla factory? Man, when I was living in Euro the Tesla tubes were unbeatable, just fantastic sounding, as good as any of the over-hyped NOS etc.

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Posted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:46 pm
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Celtic Cyclonus wrote:
Pull out the GT's, book a cruise, throw them overboard.

Use JJ's for this amp and bias hot for best results.

CC


+1, and lots of great info at eurotubes.com. They have full JJ retube kits for your amp as well as how to videos for biasing your amp once you changed the tubes.

When I changed the tubes in my HRDLx, eurotubes.com was a great resource and a year later I am still extremely satisfied.

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Posted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 1:22 pm
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Stratcat68 wrote:
Celtic Cyclonus wrote:
Pull out the GT's, book a cruise, throw them overboard.

Use JJ's for this amp and bias hot for best results.

CC



Thanks Celtic, I will take your advise and buy JJ's. As far as going on a cruise to dispose of the GT's.....I'll just toss them in the trash,much cheaper that way......LOL.

Thanks again....Peace


i once threw my tubes in a glass bottle bank (Recycling bin).

Is that a bad thing?

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