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Post subject: Chassis Weld 57 Twin Tweed Reissue
Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:17 pm
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Heyza, I gots me a 57 Twin Tweed reissue (probably out of warranty since I bought it used) and the chassis sides have come unbraised, dami-tall!

There are only two small screws with nuts holding the chassis top, sides and cabinet all together. When the cabinet/chassis screws are tightened, the nuts fall into a little semi-circular notch (presumably cut out for the nut-which seems like a poor design) on the corner of the chassis. The vibrations then rattle the bejoibers out of the entire chassis compartment causing slightly discernable yet annoying tube ringing and chassis rattling especially at lower volumes and especially on low notes. Btw, it's defintely the chassis as I've tried silicon o-rings, retainers and replacing with new tubes, etc..

I was thinking about getting the chassis re-welded on the sides and using some washers under the nuts (or wider nuts) but I am not sure what material the chassis is made out of. Is it chrome plated stainless steel? Any caveots concerning welding near delicate circuitry? I know a skilled trades welder but he's not an amp guy and I know an amp guy who's not necessarily a welder of chassis(es). Is it better to get a new chassis and have it rewired? That would be craaaazy.

Mucho grassyass en advances,

si


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Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 8:08 am
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Location: Jonesborough, Tennessee
Well, I know a little about amps and a little about welding and I'm a structural engineer.

I believe that the only way you could reweld the chassis together would be to remove all the electronic components, leaving only the bare chassis to be welded. Mig or TIG welding might very well fry any electronics that are connected to the chassis. Torch welding or brazing would be way too hot. TIG welding would be the best way to weld it, but only with all the electronics disconnected.

You might try something like JB Weld, or some type of epoxy based glue and build up the joint with some little pieces of steel overlapping the chassis on either side of the break. Scuff up the steel really good beforehand.

You could also make some straps to overlap the break and bolt them to the chassis on either side of the break.

Good luck.

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