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Post subject: Drain filter caps for amp swapping?
Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 1:40 pm
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Hi,
I am no amp tech, but I may consider replacing amp speakers in the not so far future.
I read the article at Justin Holton's site about replacing the Fender HRD's speakers, and he says you have to drain the filter caps first. But then all the steps are simple disconnect the old speaker and install a new one.
Is the drain filter caps step really necessary for such a minor mod?
If it is, then I may consider taking the amp to a tech for that job, but this seems to me something that everybody should be able to do at home...


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Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 1:47 pm
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As long as you aren't going inside the amp, there's no reason to drain the filter caps.


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Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 2:05 pm
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Thanks,
That's what I thought.


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Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 3:09 pm
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In this era of excessive litigation (and some would argue, lower aggregate IQs) it's a reasonable precaution to make that suggestion because it's not unheard of for someone installing new speakers to expose the chassis and completely replace the speaker wires.

If that's the case then the tech did you a solid with that courtesy reminder. (He knows you're not an idiot or he wouldn't have reminded you at all, but rather, he'd have recommended that you take it to a "tron nerd".

Even if you do go inside and expose the caps, as long as you're aware of the potential shock hazard and the soldering to be done is pretty straight ahead (by that I mean doesn't involve any "keyhole surgery" in close proximity to other circuits) then, depending on how it looks and the individual's level of expertise it may not be necessary to bleed the caps.

Protective eye wear are a must for soldering and are highly recommended even when building new projects. (I wore them when I built computers and industrial process control panels. Snipping a wire can result in a trip to the ER to remove the cut piece-turned-high speed projectile.

It's also a good idea to bleed the caps with a resistor rather than simply shorting across the leads with an insulated screwdriver or other tool.

And, unless I had a resistor with insulated leads set up just for cap work, I'd either not bleed them if the work can be done with NO risk, or wait until I could get to my local RS and buy a resistor and some heat shrink tubing to make up a bleeder resistor. (You could insulate with electrical tape but, I'm kind of TYPE A and I'd have to make up a primo tool that I'd be proud to use! :wink:

I'll dead short motor start caps with a screw driver (I'm a commercial electrician by trade) but not those in my precious amplifiers! :P :wink:


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Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 12:44 pm
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Thanks for clearing this up.
I am not even thinking of exposing any internals! Just disconnect, unscrew, screw new speaker and reconnect!
Thanks,
Oren


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