It is currently Mon Mar 16, 2020 4:11 pm

All times are UTC - 7 hours



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 20 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Go to page Previous  1, 2
Author Message
Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 8:08 am
Offline
Professional Musician
Professional Musician
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 09, 2007 7:46 am
Posts: 1019
Location: State of Confusion
stratele52 wrote:
IM4Tone wrote:
Thanks to all who responded!

No one really answered my original question about conductive grease..."Could a tiny dab of a contact grease on the "points" eliminate the recurrence (or at least make it much less frequent)? OR would this likely cause other problem(s)? If this would work, what product is recommended?", but gave other advice. I will get some of the Deoxit D5 since it has a residual lubricant in hopes that the points remain conductive much longer

For stratele52, this is not a vintage amp and is less than a year old. The oxidation is not difficult to remove and I've never had to resort to abrasives. That would be my last resort, as I do realize that this would eventually remove the plating and render the area more susceptible to further corrosion. FWIW, the brand of jack is Neutrik. Don't know if it's inferior, equal to, or better than Switchcraft, but in the few instances I've replaced jacks, it's always been with Switchcraft and probably will be for any future needs. I'm convinced that, at this time, jack replacement isn't necessary.

So when and if the poor ground returns (if the past is an indicator- in 4 to 6 weeks), I'll Deoxit and see how long that lasts.

Thanks again,
IM4Tone


No answer about conductive because ;
1- Who knew this product ?
2- Who use it ?
3- Because conductive grease may not work very well. Jack could be short all the time.

I have conductive grease at home, at $14 a tube is more expensive than few Switchraft jacks and less reliable.

I can't find this jack in Neutrik product. Where and how do you see it is a Neutrik ?

Well, appears I misspoke. I went back to the website of the amp builder (where I thought I had seen Neutrik jacks listed as the component used) and reread his component list and the jacks are Switchcraft...so i guess that's good.

And regarding the 'conductive grease' comment (speaking in generic terms), yes, apparently no one has used any in this application. One of my concerns about 'problems' was in fact what you mentioned: the potential for the jack to remain shorted i.e. not disconnect. But, it was worth inquiring.

Also verified that the CRC I used was a cleaner only with no residual, and found I had a spray can of Radio Shack labeled contact cleaner with residual lubricant, so I took the time to access the jacks and spray it on the recently cleaned (w/ CRC) jacks. So if the Deoxit D5 I'm going to get just sits unused, that won't make me angry! :)

_________________
The quintessential sound of 60/70's R&R:
Fender Tube Amps
Gibson Guitars


Top
Profile
Fender Play Winter Sale 2020
Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 11:51 am
Offline
Amateur
Amateur

Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2007 9:29 am
Posts: 139
Same thing on my Deville. The output signal is routed thru the ext-spk jack, on its way to the normal spk-jack. One might think this is a weak design being that the output signal is going thru a non-soldered connection, but maybe its not.

I wouldn't think (conductive?) grease is the right thing to use, but then again, maybe it can work. Is it a sliding contact? I'd refer to the mfg. application manual. I think the magic of D5-Dexiot is a bit oversold, but I'm not a chemist or an engineer.

If the surfaces of metal are not making a good contact pressure-wise, its a poor connection, regardless of the Dexiot or Grease. I'd want a strong metal-to-metal contact, and the point of contact is clean and conductive.

You could try, take a needle-noise pliers and bend each metal surface towards each other to make a large strong surface metal-to-metal contact. I'm not sure if that is possible. Clean with alcohol and then try the Dexiot. Verify the connection with your ohm meter, minus the lead resistance. Ohms should measure a "good-short" between the two metal contacts, and make sure its a repeatable connections by exercising the spk jack.


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 2:55 am
Offline
Rock Star
Rock Star
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jul 03, 2010 2:18 pm
Posts: 6544
Found that modern jacks, switches, plugs are not finished to the degree of the old school stuff. Even Switchcraft. So, some cleaning up of casting and molding marks may be needed to get a consistent contact.

Check your grounding jack points with a magnifying glass --- you'll prolly see some imperfections or mis-alignment. Simple cleaning (which should have been done at the factory) is all you need.

Good luck!


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 9:37 pm
Offline
Hobbyist
Hobbyist
User avatar

Joined: Wed May 04, 2016 9:51 pm
Posts: 13
Location: US of A
Do not use a cleaner/degreaser.
Clean and scrub the contacts it you have to do so.
Lubricate the contacts.
See how long that last.


Top
Profile
Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 9:09 am
Offline
Professional Musician
Professional Musician
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 09, 2007 7:46 am
Posts: 1019
Location: State of Confusion
IM4Tone wrote:
.............................Also verified that the CRC I used was a cleaner only with no residual, and found I had a spray can of Radio Shack labeled contact cleaner with residual lubricant, so I took the time to access the jacks and spray it on the recently cleaned (w/ CRC) jacks. So if the Deoxit D5 I'm going to get just sits unused, that won't make me angry! :)

FWIW on a follow-up to the oxidation issue on the shorting jacks in my 5E3....
It's now been over 3 months since I cleaned with the (non-lubricating) CRC, then followed with a spray of the Radio Shack cleaner with residual lube. Happy to report there have been no recurrences at all. The amp probably sat for a month unused during that period as well AND it was the most humid period of the year in my locale. Lube/cleaner is the answer! :)

_________________
The quintessential sound of 60/70's R&R:
Fender Tube Amps
Gibson Guitars


Top
Profile
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 20 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Go to page Previous  1, 2

All times are UTC - 7 hours

Fender Play Winter Sale 2020

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to: